Adjusting valves is much easier than you think. However, the time required is almost proportional to the number of valves. The following is required: common tool set -feeler gauge with suitable division – setting values for inlet and outlet valves -if necessary new valve cover seal – torque wrench when the valve play is set with Shims (metal discs of different thickness): -special tool for holding the valves (this can be easily built by yourself, See the attached pictures) -a tweezer or similar is often helpful -suitable Shims I now describe the procedure for valves with cup plungers and adjustment chimes. For other methods it may be possible to proceed differently. Let’s go: First the valve cover has to be lowered. But to do this you have to decompose various parts depending on the engine before. The screws of the valve cover are generally to be loosened crosswise, from the outside to the inside (if the repair instructions do not prescribe otherwise). The lid should be easily lifted. Now the valve control is open. The most common form is probably two overhead camshafts, where the cams press directly onto the cup plunger (more precisely: on the Shims). Another possibility is an overhead camshaft, whereby the valves are operated via tilting levers. The valve game denotes the game of hissing camshaft (or tilting lever or similar) and the valve plunger (here: the Shim), and that is when the valve is closed. the valve shaft at operating temperature, however, has to be slightly extended, a low play must be present with cold engine. If the valve shaft is too large, there is still play also during operation of the engine. The camshaft constantly loosens from the shock, and then strikes again, which leads to increased noise and wear. In extremely large game the control times are no longer correct, since the valve opens too late and closes too early. If the valve shaft is too small, close This should be clear that the valve play is always measured when the engine is cold. IMPORTANT! If the valve play is too small, the ventlie do not close properly. However, the valves cool mainly through contact with the head, they will then become too hot and burn, i.e. the shaft burns, then they fall into the cylinder -> capital engine damage. The correct values for the valve play are not correct during operation. l is to be requested from the dealer or taken from a repair manual. The play of the outlet valves is usually greater, since the outlet valves are exposed to greater thermal load and thus the valve shafts expand more. The valve play is measured when the respective valve is closed, so the cam is pointing away from the valve. To this end, the crankshaft is rotated so that the piston of the first cylinder in the upper dead point of the combustion phase (all valves of the Zyli The sensor gauge now measures the play of the inlet and outlet valves of the cylinder and records the values. Then the same for the remaining cylinders. If all values lie within the specified tolerance (usually 0.05 mm) lid again on it (control before seals) and continue. If somewhere the valve play is not correct, the corresponding adjustment shim must be replaced. The easiest thing would be if you already knew how thick d Then you could get suitable new ones. So when replacing Shims you should write down the built-in values somewhere, then it is easier the next time. To exchange the Shims there is no general instructions, because this runs from motor to motor a little different. But the principle is always the same: the valve has to be pressed down a little bit so that the disc is relieved and you can take them out. But of course, sic leaves it. h do not push the valve down by hand. The adjusting disc is located on the valve plunger, centered on the raised edge of the plunger. At one point the edge has a recess. The valve plunger must first be rotated in such a way that this recess points to the center of the cylinder. Then you turn the crankshaft so far that the pusher is pressed down. Then you attach the special tool on the cylinder head. If you turn the crankshaft carefully further or back (each one after, whether inlet or outlet valve), the valve rises again. The tongue of the special tool presses on the edge of the pusher so that the valve remains a little open. The valve is closed so far that it does not collide with the piston at OT, but is opened so far that there is enough room to take out the disc. A small screwdriver is put under the disc (at the place where the recess is in the edge of the pusher) and lifts it up a little. On the bottom of the disc there is a name for the thickness (e.g. in one hundredth of a millimetre, the discs are usually available in steps of 0.05 mm). Thus you can calculate how thick the new disc must be in order to achieve the target game (you can of course also consult appropriate tables in repair instructions). Exchange discs can be obtained from your dealer. Most dealers also take removed discs such as the back. Finally, you use the new disc (label down!), remove the tool, rotate the crankshaft at least two times and measure the game reached for control. If it is still not true: Start again from the front. If everything is right: control seals, attach valve lids (screws crosswise, tighten from the inside to the outside, preferably with torque wrench).