Hello together, I urgently need your help at least as far as I need it.. Sry due to long text.. Prior: I had opened a topic some time ago because of the click/knocking in the cylinder head cover where the phase adjuster sits. Visit workshop, it was determined deflection roller defect. Good errors found I thought.. Have cost estimate get timing belts change incl. water pump + cam shafts Simerings and cylinder head seal and still small material bsp Schr Auben blabla. Cost point just under 600€uro incl. working hours. Wanted to have my coupling aired again + 13€uro. 40€uro read out for error.. Sounds good and nice, car off to the workshop early brought allegedly about 4 hours of work. Have waited the whole day and afterwards to find out that the No timing belt change can be carried out because my outlet camshaft on the 3 cylinder should have entered. l!!! Cost point about 2000€ extra… The best is yes You wanted to turn me on a new car of 8000 euros, then said to Build the car as together as it was. First they refused, then after eternal phone calls they built it up again to me. So now I wanted to pick up car, get bill of about 150€ ?. so now arrived at home, early went out the door Mega ÖL stain on the ground.. first half street cleaned.. looks where the oil still comes from.. She from there the entire cylinder head from all corners.. even the channels of the spark plugs were full of oil up to the top.. Now even repaired still wanted to drive brake pedaling no brake force really there.. felt like grinding the brakes.. I wonder what they have made clear.. almost burst with rage.. I have never driven into the workshop in my whole life, as far as I could have done everything myself… there you want to go to the workshop and such a Sc***e.Now to the Sel bstreparatur I have now decided to do this myself, also for the reason that everything on the car is still in order “Neither rust” except the thing on the engine.. and a workshop never again.. I drive with the clacker/knocks already over 6000 kilometers, the noise has always remained the same and the engine is still quiet and makes no bitches. The clacker can be really bad to arrange, and it will also not be the turning roller.. to 100%. Did I confirm this yet I bought a large suitcase with a lot of tools that it does not fail, OT tool bought, complete timing belt set + water pump, spark plugs key, error reader, repair kit phaser did not do that but you can try it. Oil filters and seals, spark plugs, camshafts are on the way. And a lot of instructions.. and a link. e and right hand.. I couldn’t see any wear on the camshaft out of sample, should that still be what I’m going to send them to fix. Should that be the least problem.. I don’t think that’s going to solve my problem yet I’m going to put a video in the days where you can hear the noise, maybe you can help me further. I’ve got all of Youtube and Google looking through semplich things no comparable noise is there. The noise is really funny, you make times full of gas and three you immediately hear the clutch right as the engine slows down but the noise turns even faster than the engine itself. At the power I have not noticed anything about differences so far. It comes out literally above the noise if you want to be exactly where you feel the engine oil. Drive 10W 60 currently.. The noise comes as said only above from below is nothing to hear and is dependent on speed. It doesn’t even sound like this. e Hydro-punch rather like a screw knocking on top, but not even so that you would say that sounds extremely dangerous. As if maybe a screw would be taken and a string would be on it and hurled into the air against a wall. The video here is very close.. But if it is a crankshaft bearing damage which parts should I necessarily change rather also with, possibly all bearings? Bsp bearing shells. If it should be the case.. one could also change that to some extent. Well that’s enough now but ^^ I thank you as always for your help..