MKL on, engine doesn’t start

Hello, please for your tips, don’t scold, have used the sufu, but found nothing suitable. So, went as follows: in the summer omega caravan 2.0, 16V, X 20 XEV, EZ 1998, NFL, added, whereupon my Limo EZ 1996, VFL, first the service acknowledged for jealous. Technically it was the sprite pump, which I could fix with your help and also the ADAC very quickly, because I still had a donor omega there. Since I have my thick blue (the limo) right now with of course, I had to enjoy the new crossbars, elephant feet, and, and, and above all, new TÜV stamp. The caravan stopped for the time being, had powerfully empty and deep discharged the battery and had to be peppered up first. Driver’s door was still opened with the key, so much ZVR still worked, only the FFB did not go any more. He started at first sea very disheartened, but with other battery (too small) it went after the change then, he s In order to fill the tank at last (empty tanks are not good when standing) I took him with me to work and he ran 1a, as before silky soft and gentle. At the end of a climb, which he drove up great and fast, briefly the engine stopped, I briefly saw the red generator or oil control light, at least something red in the tacho, and the MKL remained permanently on (no blinking). The next day it took him in the cold condition (about 10-12 degrees) very long until he was mischievous. From then on the MKL remained my constant companion. If I turned off the engine, let the car roll with ignition, the MKL went off after the start about 1 sec and stayed on again. MKL otherwise stays on continuously, if the ignition is off, the engine is off. Starting constantly, whether warm or cold, took forever until it came. Actually, as if he didn’t get a sprite at first. I let him roll then, when possible, to spare the reason. Praiseworthyly, when I arrived at the end of the day At home again and the car had unloaded, he didn’t jump on ERST before the door any more, even though he was warm. Start with a portable battery or start aid (in real polung) in the evening and the following evening did not bring anything. He didn’t have a single pounder. Battery exchange for 70 Ah battery almost new: nothing. Battery about 5 minutes stuck off: nothing. Knock against the tank from below (sprit pump) nothing. Backup 18 (20 A) ok, changed: nic hts About 100 ml brake cleaner in the intake tract behind the air mass meter: nothing. Car is used, therefore ignition cable from the 1st cylinder (to the front/tooth belt) patched with insulating tape, but not yet to change at the moment. There seems to be no spark to come, ignition candle for 1. zyl. placed on the holding eye to lift the motor: no spark. Spark plug from the 1st cylinder NGK BKR 5EK (2 mass electrodes) makes good impression, from the brownish-grey coloring, also no oil-siff, not wet from the fuel. NWS: we were able to measure with digitalmulti only for a short time about 2.4 V, is that ok? I haven’t pulled off a KWS or NWS yet. Where exactly is the white bayonet plug X3 behind the battery? I changed battery several times, especially because you don’t get the big batteries so easily in. What is this box with relays, which is clipped on the relay box in the engine room above the plus pole of the battery. The 1996-Omega doesn’t have that, although One more question to the distributor: Ignition sequence 1-3-4-2, like the VW? Does it turn in the direction of the clock or against it? If it turns in the direction of the clock, I don’t understand the layout. Have I ever copied a picture from motortalk, which Kurt (?) kindly labeled: why isn’t it 1-4-2-3 or if it turns against 1-3-2-4? What do I think wrong? What I don’t think is the question, why is this mistake so complicated? So, thank you so much, I report what your advices do me good.