MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Land Cruiser Purchase advice

    Hello together, we are currently driving an Audi A6 3.0 TDI competition from 2018 as a family car. Since we had our 3rd child last year, it will be in the vehicle closely provided all children are present. With a child seat and the 16-year-old on the back seat as well as the child seat in the trunk we meet with limits. Now I like the purchase of a Land Cruiser from 2020 in the Tec Edition. The vehicle is fully equipped, with terrain package, AHK and a parking heater. That the infotainment and I am aware that the quality does not correspond to the A6. I did a test drive over 30 kilometers and was quite impressed by the driving feeling. We often drive to the family in Bavaria or the North Sea, in the Audi very comfortable and relaxed. How does the Land Cruiser do there. Is it to be used as a travel vehicle or are further trips more an impression for the family. How are your experiences?

  • Buying advice: 7-DSG? Which 1.4?

    Good day, I’ve been thinking about buying a Seat Leon for a long time now. Now I found a Leon that I like and is also cheap: BJ: 2015 no FR KM: 22000km 1.4 TSI with 150hp and 7-speed DSG Equipment: – Full LED – Pano – Tempo – Navi (Unfortunately no full link function) – Seat Sound Should cost 15,500€ with winter tyres on aluminum. Now I have read here (and in other forums) that the 7-speed DSG should be slightly error-prone. Since this vehicle is no longer guaranteed h at (and can’t be expanded) I ask myself if it’s “sensuous” to buy a used one, even if it has only 20,000km down? It’s a dry DSG, why an oil change isn’t there anyway (should be relatively expensive). If I asked myself correctly, the Leons have a timing belt, however, says Seat that it doesn’t have to be changed? Are there any other maintenance/services that would soon be available?

  • Fighting rust permanently

    Hello together, please move if I don’t post in the right area. I’ve been researching for a while, but unfortunately don’t get really smart about the matter because there are a lot of different opinions on the topic. It’s about my Kawa ER-5 at which a few rust spots (crackers, shock absorbers, rear wheel swing, frame, ( tank bottom but without picture) ) are to be fought now over the winter. My question would be now how best to deal with the matter. Sandblasting or other things would probably not be worthwhile for me, however, because I want to do it myself. The following refers to the rust points on the damper suspension on the frame. First mechanically grind down with wire brushes and sandpaper to the bare metal. Then brush with phosphoric acid (alternative to a rust converter such as fertan?) Then zinc spray or primer? Finally paint with paint and clear varnish at the end? Doing so? Would like to eliminate the subject of rust at the places in the long term.. Add a few more pictures.. Thanks already for your tips! Greetings, Maro

  • Kawasaki KZ 250 G LTD goes out when it is warm

    Hello, I bought a Z 250 G LDT with 53tkm and 7 years of service life a few weeks ago. Made : – oil change/filter change – clutch pull new – battery new – valves set – carburettor cleaned – ZK New, old had wrong thermal value Although it starts with Choke, then runs relatively calmly in the stationary gas and can also drive until the engine is warm (if it runs warm in the stationary gas, or at 10 min drive with about 30-50 kmH). (1500rpm) runs, just goes out and can’t be started for 10-20 min. The spark plug is worn but not wet… Greetings

  • Oil sludge and guarantee extension

    Dear community, dear hangover, I have just received the AUTO-Bild-Newsletter by talking about a warranty extension for various Saab engines of the years 1998-2003, because they mud faster in cold temperatures. Since Saab allegedly spares a recall action, the engine guarantee is to be extended to 8(!!!) years. Do we have to worry?I have already reduced the intervals of the engine oil change to 10,000 km! Thanks for information and tips on what to do to secure demands! S Aabian greetings mrbean95

  • Gas 95 or 98 octan?

    Hello together! As a newcomer I greet you first! And then I already have a question: I drive a 9-5 AERO MY 09/99 km 125,000 – so far from the beginning completely without problems. At the last oil change at 120,000 (jawoll= all 10,000 thanks to the convincing “cat” words! ) the master asked which fuel I would refuel.Answer: Super plus, as prescribed.He: Refuel Super, that’s enough. You don’t notice the difference in performance, and the machine does not hurt. I am a w sceptical, but perhaps someone has already had experiences in this regard? I think that it does not hurt thanks to the modern electronics of the machine; but what about the performance and/or possible additional consumption?

  • 9-5 Aero – Control before purchase ?!

    Hello dear Saab municipality, after 4 diesel years (2years 9-3 2.2TiD, 2years 9-5 3.0 TiD) I now have the opportunity to get involved with an Aero sports combi. A test drive (with another Aero) has already been completed, the impressive driving performances generate a very big “have-will” – moment The Aero is 2 months old, has 17000km (!) on the speedometer – was moved by a regional manager Saab Germany. (The man must have lived in the car…) h as Auto-Technik-Laien a way to determine whether the predecessor “reasonably” drove or whether it is rather heated? I can’t recognize it on the tires – the used winter tires are already dismantled Many greetings from near Nuremberg Maik

  • Audi TT RS MTM vs. BMW M3 E92

    Hi guys, I’m still looking for a replacement for my M3 E92 and I’m currently swinging between me to get another M3 E92 or a TT RS from MTM “refreshed”. The TT would have 400 hp, already a Bilstein chassis, Eisenmann AGA etc. and also only 18 thousand KM run… For the TT speak all-wheel and above all torque. It has about 550 NM and the M3 “only” 400. That comes from the turbo … still the TT is a little lighter about 150 to 200 kg… pure from the acceleration g the TT should go forward slightly more tactile, I think half a second to 100 and about 2 to 200 … VMAX, on the other hand, is higher with the M3 (removement of course provided). I find the topic really very difficult, all-wheel against rear drive, vacuum cleaner against turbo, V8 against row five cylinders etc. … price-wise both do not do much about the 40 bills in the purchase and in the maintenance should also be similar… So then I’m curious how you see the comparison like this!

  • Costs Expansion of particulate filters in the workshop

    Hello Forum, I have just talked to my FTH about various methods/systems for particle filter cleaning. My opinion: Expansion of the particle filter and cleaning in a special operation = outside the workshop, since there are the corresponding experiences regarding DPF and also the cleaning (according to my knowledge) almost restores the new condition. My FTH said that this would not count because only the removal of the particle filter from Therefore, it would recommend a cleaning in the built-in condition (TUNAP or similar) where a sensor bore in the DPF is inserted into the DPF via a lance of detergent, then rinsed out and the car then burns itself again during driving operation. Lt. of his statement the quality of this cleaning method is just as good as that of an external cleaning company. The costs here are in a similar frame as with the external cleaning (350 – 400€). To this my questions: Has anyone ever had the DPF removed / extended on the RAV4 and can understand the stated cost in any way ? Is there possibly even a support instruction for this ? What do you think of the statement quality cleaning in the built-in condition = quality cleaning in the developed condition ? VG mt123

  • Purchase advice RAV4

    First hello to everyone! I am interested in the RAV4 (XA5), as far as possible 2022 or end 2021. So far I have no experience with Toyota, currently driving MB E 200d T-model. Think about a change, because among other things with Toyota with change premium etc. is advertised and MB (Service) is annoying me. I feel so slow on the model, but one thing confuses me. Empty weight/Max. Zul. Total weight I have found in the internal differ very much from each other. Toyota RAV4 2.5 Hybri d: Empty weight Manufacturer 1590 kg Permissible total weight Manufacturer 2935 kg Load Manufacturer 1.345 kg Towing load unbraked / braked at 12% 750 / 800 kg Then I see the following: Weight & Towing load Empty weight: 1.745 to 1.825 kg Permissible total weight: 2.135 to 2.185 kg Permissible towing load unbraked (max.): 750 kg Towing load allowed (max.): 800 kg (2WD), 1.650 kg (4WD) Support load: 70 kg That would be 2185-1745=440kg Can I j The first thing I found would be top, the second, the end of the RAV4 for me before I start with it. It might also be connected with motorization etc. I would at least know which one to look around. General tips are also welcome. What should be the equipment or even recall/other problems you have had so far. I thank you in advance. VG Murat PS: About the search function I have nothing If there is anything I’m happy about the link. Then I’ll read in there.