MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • used sports car for the highway for max 20,000

    Hello community, I am looking for a car for the highway. The speed range would be at least 180 km/h – 230 km/h. This should reach the car easily and relatively quickly. The possibility of being able to speed up again at 200 km/h would be perfect. Stoic straight run at high speed safe driving feeling beyond 200 km/h would sign this. It doesn’t have to be a handling miracle for the highway. On the highway it has to shoot straight ahead. 20,000 I could maxim This is why I’m insecure. What could you recommend? I’m quite open to everything (Kombi, SUV, Lim, Coupe). Is it worth a lot more than 100,000km of cardboard, older model, to get more horsepower if you have a good upholstery for repairs? Greetings Skryb

  • Buy Aerox 70ccm or not???

    Hello everyone, I’m new here and I have a question right away And I might have to buy an Aerox. So the scooter is only 1km away from me. It was built in 2010 about 15000km. It’s pretty much made up!! It has a Streetrace 70ccm built in. Furthermore, other clutch Vario and so small things changed on the optics like a double optics etc. So he should run quite well papers he also has Drosselung but I don’t know. I also think he has many verses Now my question I actually wanted to convert it back to original, but isn’t the engine completely “sucked out”? I wanted to install new crankshaft bearings then. He only has a larger nozzle in the carburettor so he doesn’t turn so high and thus he doesn’t cover up so high? What do you think I could buy the scooter or rather leave my fingers off? He’s pretty cheap but what would you pay for? Mfg.

  • Replacement for my Twingo

    Hello together, I think it’s time to say goodbye to my Twingo I Phase 2. There are currently a lot of repairs to be done In total, the costs exceed the value of the car by far and in addition, there are issues like that my daughter with her 8 years still has to sit in the child’s seat and can not only use a seat increase, because the Twingo has no headrests at the back. Fortunately, it happens that I have paid for overtime by summer bonus, and nd repayment from the gas supplier have a few euros extra available. Specifically, I only know tomorrow / the day after tomorrow what I will have net on the claw, but as an order of magnitude it will probably be around 1,500€, not huge much, but think you can find a nice replacement for it. At the moment I have the following vehicle models (no rating by order): Headrests are in the back, besides technically good condition and preferably no planned repairs, first the wich I would like to have a 4/5 door. I drive around 30 KM a day and maybe 200km on the We, so anything but many KM’s. So far I have discovered the following vehicles and found them interesting from the read: Does this include opinion? Alternatives I should take into account? Greeting Jörg

  • Used car purchase, engine condition – what now?

    Hello the municipality, – with me there is a change of driving, in question 1-3 years old with max. 60tkm A4 with 2.8L, MB C220 or E220, everything wg. KOMBI and AHK, the 2 liter engines from VW or AUDI seem to me to be a little too weak for the performance > 170 hp. There are of private, leasing resetters, rent-returners, factory members, etc. All well so far. However, I am not quite sure that with friendly offers cars also motor- (among other things -) are technically checked so that one can If jd can give me a Paas tip here, it would be important for me: how do I recognize whether the engine is “heated”, i.e. usually driven with lead foot in cold engine before or vice versa, turbochargers were not cooled enough. At up to 60tkm it would be difficult for me to recognize. On the tyre profiles/optics of the tires would not be a VErlasse, which can also be replaced by any dealer, is also often done. I usually understand about the technology wa s, but here my possibility ends. Above all, it would be very unfavorable to drive 200 to 300 km to the next offer date and to have something checked there, respectively with DEKRA/expert. gruss and thank you for the contributions in advance

  • Power supply at Polo 6N2 from 2001 with 75 HP machine

    Hello, have “new” bought a Polo 6N2 and unfortunately had to find out that I have a problem with the power supply. Although the battery is not yet a year old according to the previous owner, I have stayed down. Starting aid was enough that the car ran again. In addition, I charged the battery with the charger. Apparently, the charging was not enough. The next breakdown came. Also the purchase of a new battery did not bring any improvement. This caused suspicion of the alternator. Allerd The voltage was not sufficient when the engine was running. So the alternator definitely no longer charges. However, the old battery had to contend with lack of acid, which was more likely to close to overload. Does anyone have tips? Can it be a cable error (e.g. with the excitation)? Can the voltage regulator be replaced separately from the alternator? How do I check whether the alternator or Regle r are defective? Tips on cost savings are especially desired, because the car is the first for my son who is still an apprentice. Greetings and a happy new year wishes Thomas

  • Vito V230 – I can’t find the LMM ??!

    My 638/2 – Vito 114 – V230 – from 1998/1999 has fat exhaust gas, stinks back to fuel. Candles are all 4 nice evenly deep black rusted. Since new candles are in from the day before yesterday the white steam is away from the back, or much less, it pulls again more evenly, it still stinks quite. So it becomes with AU or TÜV nothing. I now want to renew LMM and Lambdasonde. Probe was original from Bosch for 40 Euros. That can be taken one time. LMM buy is no problem – looks the same everywhere, there are from 25 eurons. BUT WH is the thing ???? On the suction tube between air filter and carburettor is a probe, which I would recognize as LMM, looks like a hot wire air flow measurement. BUT after I finally found this probe on the Internet, this is a temperature probe for the intake air, and no air mass measurement. I can’t find another probe – especially not one with a piece of pipe, as they overball to k can anyone help me ??

  • Monitor probe does not work Skoda Fabia

    Hello, have the following problem on the Skoda Fabia 6y5 , 1.4L 16V 55KW, 8004 ACH, Motor BBY, Built 2006, 89000 KM, monitor probe according to Kat does not work. I have already replaced this with a Bosch, the error persists. I also made sure that the probe does not come into contact with copper paste. The Before Kat probe is Ok according to AU measurement. Fuel consumption is as always. Mixture is neither too fat nor too lean. The probe voltage on the two white cables of 12V is also due. Signalka bel black and grey have passage to the control unit. An error was now in it for the first time, LMM unplausieles signal! Where can the error lie? ECU possibly defective? Greeting Thomas

  • Automatic gearboxes

    Hello, I have a question about the automatic transmission. Currently I have a VW Polo 6N2 and an automatic converter in it. Unfortunately, there are hardly any more in the new cars today, but there are new ones. I am currently looking for a new car with automatic and therefore do not want to make any mistakes when buying… – An alternative to the automatic converter is DSG (new VW Polo) correct? – Is “ActiveSelect Automatic” (is available with some Opel Corsa) also an alternative? At least from the control lever it sees immediately a us… – Easytronic (Opel Corsa) is counted as automatic, but seems to be more an automated manual transmission? Is it supposed to jerk, which is no longer like the automatic converter? So I would have to look for a car with DSG or ActiveSelect at the moment? Or are there other cars that I haven’t noticed yet? Thanks already! Jule

  • Clutch pedal Knarzt/severe

    Hello together, I drive a Citroen C4 from 2011 with almost 100,000km. I now have the problem that at Stop & Go traffic the clutch pedal starts to creak after some time and comes back harder or hangs. Then make as nice hopser as if you let the clutch come too fast. If I don’t have to step the clutch for some time then the problem disappears again. Does anyone know what that could be?

  • 5W30 and 15W40 – Mix engine oil?

    At the moment I have a 5W30 (or 10W30) in my Toyota Aygo. However, very little of it. There was nothing left to see on the trackstick. I would like to drop some oil. At home I bought a good 15W40 (actually for the beetle, still new and unopened). My question is – can I refill with 15W40? Or should I just change it completely? What’s a bit surprising – the oil was last changed in September 2018 and I ride about 1200 km a month. otos: one from the instructions for use of the car and one from the oil. In the instructions for use it is clear that 15W40 with API SL is in order. On my oil is also API SL. The question is whether mixing is possible?