Author: 00c12f

Hello together, short distance is deadly for the diesel engine as well as for the stationary heater, which works as an auxiliary heater. Mostly I drive long distance. Is there a way to disable the heating function of the auxiliary heating, if you already know that it is short distance? I drove on the WE to tinker out of the garage, even then the heater jumped in its auxiliary heating function, only to switch off shortly afterwards – have been only 10 meters with gradients. Somehow without OB D possible? I set the SH in the instrument cluster on ventilation, but still the heater starts. There is a bit (I don’t know in which control unit anymore) that encodes the heater as an auxiliary heater. What would happen if you removed it? Would the heater then be “only” gone, so that you would have to switch on by means of a button in the interior or remote control? If the latter is possible, there is a difference in cold engine between “turning on the SH as an auxiliary heater” and “Insc Would the SH start in partial load mode instead of full load? Would that make sense if one had to consciously choose the SH? Are there any differences in consumption? (Skoda Superb 2 Combi, SH Webasto VEVO ex works)

Moin bewerte Gemeinde, I am not sure in which forum I should post the topic otherwise, so I try it here. I have completed a Bachelor’s degree in Bio after Abi and am currently in a Master’s degree in Bioinformatics I have now determined for myself that I do not get happy in this area (spaete Erkennung, I know), and I want to start a training as a KfZ mechatronics engineer at the next possible time, because there my real interest The question that I now ask myself: are future employers deterred from doing so? The training as a KfZ mechatronics engineer still seems to be one of the most popular. I will try one way or another, but I would still be interested in your opinion.

Hey guys, recently I bought my first car and already committed the first stupidity. In my zeal of the first cleaning and “all-round supply” on the occasion of the nice weather I waited my car and accidentally diluted water with frost protection (50:50) in the container for the coolant tipped. Now I am completely irritated what I should do best. It was not really much (about a small finger wide), because not much has been missing, but I can only s What exactly would you recommend to me what I do now? I have read up to now some things that went from “so little is not bad” to “immediately tow and replace”. I assume that one should make a change of the cooling liquid at the place promptly. If it would be sufficient if I had to drive to the workshop and have it done within the next week, or is the said quantity ( it was full 50ml) not critical to consider? Thanks already for reading my message and I am grateful about every post 🙂

Hello all, I have a very small stone crack (driver’s side viewing window), which itself is much smaller than a 1 cent coin (see photo). However, from the same stone crack a crack of about 10 cm goes off and now I am worried that it could expand. What do you say about it? Should I have the disc changed? I can’t judge whether the crack was there before, just as little as the stone crack is there for a long time, since it is very small. Thank you for your help. Greetings Andre

Moin Together, I wanted to ask if there are any more opinions and hopefully experiences about it… So far I have only found the 2 older threads for EBC brakes:https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…rungen-ebc-bramsbelaege-t1828607.htmlhttps://www.motor-talk.de/…/…iben-mit-ebc-black-stuff-t928895.html I can imagine the blackstuff being so bad… With my Mazda 6 GY, the brakes are due in the front, don’t know yet whether they’re just coverings or even scheib en (don’t know what’s installed)… Would have liked coverings that cause little to hardly any brake dust… As a side effect a long durability and a high heat resistance are gladly come! But must fit in price, I find the “colored” EBC brakes a bit bad at the price, but so far I could not find any “simple” ceramic brakes… Greetings Mopedcruiser

Hello, I have a tracker Simvalley GT 280, which has a battery of 700 mA. The battery alone, however, only lasts about two days with a daily query. In order for the tracker to remain functional over a long period of time, I connected it to a 12,000 mA power bank, hoping to be able to rest for about four weeks and maintain the function. The power bank itself should be charged with connected vehicle. The problem: the battery en s Trackers emptys (despite the connected power bank) so that I get a message to the battery level at 20% residual charge. Obviously no compensation is made via the powerbank. But when I pull off the charging cable and connect again the battery is charged in the tracker (red indicator light lights). A charge is also done if I press the button to check the charging state on the power bank. What can I do, or must I change that the current is directly from the power bank. Powerbank? Who can help me?

Hello together, was with my 206 Peugeot HDI year 2001 Euro3 at the TÜV. This meant that the car will not get through from 01.01.2019 due to tightening of the limit values, and probably all diesel of this age class would then have to be scrapped. Can this be real? And what about my BMW 320D Euro 4 and my wife’s Peugeot 207 HDI Euro 5? Does any of you already know about it? Is there perhaps a table with relevant Euro standards? Greetings