Author: 00c12f

Moin people, I want to bother you with a technical question. A short background: I want to build a new chassis in my A4 B7 3.0 TDI 1800kg thickship. The series chassis has 170Tkm and 11 years on the hump and is already just hard by factory. So I stand before the decision which dampers and springs I buy. Wishing is damping of fast shocks (e.g. paving stone, rails, transverse joints) with low immersion behaviour (e.g. floor shafts, load changes) ))Now to my question: What has more influence on fast shocks? Damper or spring? How does the interaction work? I am also happy about links to reading material on the Internet. I want to use progressive Eibach springs. These are the harder the more they are breathed. But what about the dampers? Do you think the springs can work if the dampers do not give in to shocks? Are there dampers that have similar effects? Soft with fast, small shocks but hard with lower one My plan: As the first exchange of the remaining old handlebars Stronger stabilizers from the Audi S4 (or RS4) Progressive Eibach springs damper I am still unsure, at the moment I have Bilstein B4 (the same as series, had to go for the TÜV at that time) but with them I am not happy. They will probably be out again. I already have a topic in the A4 B7 forum open, the A4 Nerds recommended me Koni FSD, I would like to hear the opinion of other drivers. No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.

Good afternoon to the ladies and gentlemen, How the title could be revealed a little bit I am about to retrofit a warning flashing system. Have there only a small problem, I would need a relay which is mass controlled. Does someone know one which is really mass controlled? Plus lies on the coach and mass is switched. Have already tried a few, but did not work as it should. Villeicht knows one of you a relay that does not care about the control / polarity ?

Hello together. Either I only imagine this, or there are actually noticeable differences between the fuel brands at least in terms of acceleration. I drive for 15 years and about 140tkm a BMW 316I Coupe me lean 102 ps, so from the beginning no acceleration miracle. Either my popometer fools me or I notice noticeable differences between the two petrol stations Jet and Shell. I mostly refuel on the jet and sometimes on Shell, but my BMW comes to me like this. soon I will fill up the Super E5 at the shell I imagine that my BMW looks much more sparkling. Is there any point in that?

how many kmh are allowed with a tach o ? so if I drive zb 100 kmh, to how much can he display ? that the tacho can never show less as he really drives is clear to me, but how much can he show too much ??? me these opel tachos always seem so extremely wrong, workmate drives in the city allegedly always 100 (I have seen), but that never worked out, because the one complete collapse was on a large road. I would say that was at most 70… he best Is it true that his tacho is right and he pulls up to 50 kmh in the 1 course without the motor crying (maximum 3500 turns) he told me but once that he had to do a tachotest because of other matures, where he fell through with 5 kmh, which I could then get out then how fast he really is so how much can the tacho normally show maximum too much ?

Hai. I have a question, whose answer I could not find despite google…. I drive abroad with my car in December. I come back in April. HU runs from January. So far, so clear. I have to go to HU immediately after re-entry to Germany. I have then exceeded the HU by more than 2 months. So I have to pay 20% extra for an extended exam? I think the HU will only be due for me from re-entry? Do I then have to pay the 20% more, although the H U Time limit is changed to “immediately after re-entry”, right? Lg, Mark

Good evening, my car is causing me some problems at the moment, which I try to identify more precisely. More precisely, my ventilation no longer works. Before I change any parts, I would like to check the ventilation motor in which I give electricity to the part. Up to the plug I have already fought myself. Only how is it going on now? I have a plus and a minus pole under the hood. The battery is in the trunk. clamp both poles under the hood and at the other ends two long cables which I hold again to the + and the – pole of the plug? I just don’t know what I can use for cables. I think telephone cables do not go because of the smaller cross-section but also does not go too thick because the plug is not very large and somehow I have to hit the pins.

Hello, Some vehicles, for example, use devices that allow the engine to be protected from wind in cold conditions (automatic locking system on the radiator grille) and thus reach its operating temperature faster. Certainly, I am not the only one who comes up with the idea that try on your own car and wanted to inquire about your experience. What experiences have you had with covering the cooler for the cold season? Fuel saving effect ? Mfg bluskoda