Hello. I’m trying to sell my car and have found a potential buyer. He wants to buy the car unseen because he comes from Poland. He would accept my purchase contract and sent me a copy of his identity card. I found out through research that he has a car dealership in Poland. We only agreed that he would pay the money in cash. Now he said that he sent a driver and didn’t like to give him the money and would like a transfer. He would also send a transfer confirmation by e-mail. What do you say? Should I close the business like this? or too risky? MFG Muckser89
Author: 00c12f
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What kind of corossive covering is that?
I would like to know what kind of stubborn white lining is that is on all sorts of parts on my mopped. I tried to polish it off with kerosene and an electric toothbrush, but that didn’t work. Before I use all sorts of means now, I would like to know what kind of corrosion it is, i.e. which element oxidizes to what, and then possibly with a special remedy to proceed purposefully. elag came within half a year by driving in the rain, probably sometime with salt participation. Half a year ago all these parts looked like factory new.
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What do I have to fix for example HU/TÜV ?
Hello everyone, I recently moved to Germany (from Belgium), took my VW Polo with me, and now I have to go to the registration office and apparently have a main examination. Now few things are missing from the car, which is now already 18 years old. Which of the following would I fail the HU? – a scratch in the windshield. But doesn’t disturb the vision. A VW workshop employee told me “if you’re lucky, you’ll get away with it”. But https://www .autobutler.de/blog/gunstig-through-the-tuv says that I absolutely fail.-Gurte. https://www.autobutler.de/blog/gunstig-through-the-tuv says that the belts have to “function”. What does that mean? I don’t think there’s a problem with my belts, but when I unlock them, they don’t go back *as* fast as in the new car.-Slice wipers don’t wipe so well. -Right rearview mirrors. The mirror is not kaput, but the system on the dashboard to adjust the mirror fu unfortunately no longer nctions.-Close only works on the passenger side. -A (very small) collision against the bumper is rather improvised with cable tie repaired. Thank you for your tips! Korneel
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When braking, it whistles unbearably high frequency
Hello, I have installed ATE Performance discs, and also a new set of red ATE Performance brake pads. Before I had the serial pads. Since I wanted to try and improve even a little bit, I bought and installed the red ones, however it squeaks and whistles now after 500km every time the brakes are warm, and always on the last meters before I come to the stand. Had opened the window earlier and that was already very loud. Contact surfaces on the coverings are all thoroughly lubricated with ATE Plastilube, guide bolts also, saddle carriers and shots all cleanly brushed, derusted, etc. All pico. Can it be that these performance coverings just tend to whistle and I can do nothing against it? Antiquitschpaste should therefore probably not change anything anymore… Have now the serial coverings on it again. Optics is boring, but if it is quiet… Otherwise I see no mistake that I can If I try the greenstuff now… will it whistle too? Are also sports coverings. Greetings
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Sticking the stick ?
Have in my bumper a 5 cm long crack / does not go through down / someone has had so “contact” with my car / so stick ! The crack is almost invisible / both parts lie as good as each other ! But with what ? 2 components ?
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Battery
Never had problems with the battery on my vehicle so far. Also not with my new car zafira with s/p automatic so far not. I drive per year about 7500km and often only short distances. Who I read in the forum so I get fear for my expensive AGM Battrie, multicharge after. Think as long it s/T works is the battery ok?!! Am I right?!
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Old-tailed pile + brake caliper
Hello people, I am trying to buy brake saddle for my car and everywhere you pay a “old part pile” between 30-50 euro on it. I have never had that when buying spare parts. can I get back that deposit? if I have to buy a brake saddle for 150 euro and have to pay 50 euro deposit, I pay in advance 200. if I now send my old brake saddle to the company/dealer, can I get back the 50 euro safely? or can they say that the part is defective/rusted etc u and don’t pay me anything? and if they don’t pay me back the 50 euro, can I send back the goods and get my money back (if 30 days right of return)? thank you in advance for your reply
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Problems with the battery
Hello, first of all I hope that I have landed in the right forum, if not, please move the thread. My car battery worries me something that may be unfounded, so I wanted to check here, with people who have a clue. I drive a Hyundai i30 GD, built in 2012. The following problem: Last year at the end of April, my battery fell after just over 3 years and I bought a replacement battery (Varta Blue), which my neighbor gave me Since I don’t drive much and if most short distances, he advised me that I should also buy a battery charger. I then bought the Cartrend MP3800 and thought that it was okay, it hung on every 5-6 weeks in the summer, in the winter now every 2-3 weeks. Now I had the charger on it recently on Saturdays and it showed me after two hours that the battery was fully charged. I was then on Wednesdays during the inspection and there you have among other things also d he battery checked, Ergbnis: Condition: 95%, charging capacity: 22%! Over this 22% was and still I am quite terrified, because I had charged the battery just a few days before according to the charger. I did not drive at all on Sundays and Mondays, Tuesdays 5 kilometers and Wednesdays 30 kilometers to the workshop (inspection). According to this diagnostic device there are no errors. I had the diagnostic device in the workshop attached last year, too, to check if somewhere from I also had the alternator checked, everything with positive result, i.e., no mistakes. Do I get too much head and are the above described 22% normal due to the current weather conditions (just over 0 degrees) and my driving profile? I still have a year warranty with my Hyundai i30, but I don’t know what to tell the workshop, which, according to the diagnostic device, do not find any errors. I now also have the cartrend against a CTEK MXS 5.0 changed, because that is supposed to be the better device. I am very grateful for tips and help, maybe I only worry unnecessarily.
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Paint treatment radical?
Hi, I bought a Vectra A V6. Since you can’t really throw money around as a student, my father has repainted the badly scratched and several times wall-tested original Opel Sport spoiler with the small SATA. The result is great for a garagehobby painting, but unfortunately some parts have got light orange skin. To get these parts nice smooth I planned: -Nasschiffiff 1000/2000/3000 -Sonax paint cleaner by hand -Sonax Nanoversiegung Elung, apply with a Bosch Profi eccentric grinder with adjustable speed and medium-hard foam attachments. Unfortunately, the grinder does not offer me forced rotation, since it is a professional device, I have not yet managed to make it stop. Soo, I would like to hear a few honest opinions (Zimperlichkeit is not desired, I want to learn something here and not be cuddled) about my project.
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EU HARLEY allow in Germany / COC – data sheet
Hello, I bought a Harley Fat Boy 2003 from Latvia. In addition, there is only one EU approval – paper (in my case (LT paper) green with some information. I have a purchase contract. Otherwise nothing. I also read a lot different here in the forum and have now got my own opinion. First I was with a screwdriver that makes Costom – conversions. He told me that he has done this before and said I need a COC paper. Hmm… that I have to see where I have the ( In short: The COC paper is only available from the Harley Dealer, for example, near you. The prices are moving… as you read here in the forum very differently. Between 150 and well over 1500 Eur there is the talk. After my screwdriver didn’t get in the pushes…. I released him from all duties and took care of an approval here in DE from now on. First I called the TÜV. He told me I needed a data sheet where everything was written on it. ch … the COC paper ? Hm that’s it… Ok I thought … I called Harley in Möhrfelden… the nice ladies on the phone told me that the COC is only sold through the dealers … She unfortunately can’t help me anymore.. but it costs around the 350 EUR. Ok I thought I was browsing the www Bin then with the help of another forum member on the TÜV Süd (data sheet until 1999) from 1999 to 2004 the Tüv Nord is responsible (later models are obviously not yet available) The price of the Tüv Süd per data sheet should then cost around the 300 – 400 EUR. I have a 2003er there is the TÜV Nord specialized. The costs here 350 EUR zuzügl 66,50 EUR MWST ( 416,00 zuzügl COD). If I now hold the data sheet in my hand and then go with my Harley to the TÜV… the acceptance and approval (provided that I hold the data sheet in my hand and then go with my Harley to the TÜV… should the acceptance and the approval (provided that I hold the data sheet in my hand… you have the original exhaust – which is installed for the respective type, a Km tacho and a couple of other modifications then hopefully no longer a problem. The Tüv acceptance according to § 21 is then perhaps also again at 150 to 250 EUR. That then depends on… what still has to be registered. I write next week or beginning of March… as it happened to me then at TÜV and whether everything worked out. Lg Markus