Hello, please don’t laugh at me or curse me the bones for the following questions 🙂 but I have little to no idea of car sound and am glad to have found such a forum. So long speech short sense. I have a Golf 3 which is currently equipped with the serial LS in the dashboard, a Pyle 290W and a 6 year old (heated) Infinity Cappa 1.0-3 way. The radio is a Sony CDX-CA850 (4x52W/4Ohm) Now I thought it was time for what newer. I imagined: a 2 way system(“Kombi-LS” for in the doors and again a 3way into the storage. For the Alage I would very much like a new power amplifier with a little more power, but it should not rob so much space, because I do not want to reduce the trunk volume very much. For this reason also in no case a SUB in consideration. Does it then make sense to use the “old” amplifier for the front LS? Or is it enough to control it via the radio ? What is the meaning of using the “old” amplifier for the front LS ? e Dimensions of power (W) should I choose the one for power amplifier, front LS and rear LS ? What do you mean ? As promised the volume for the “extension” amounts to max. 500 teuro ! I am grateful for every tip and for every purchase recommendation! Greeting from the Saarland !
Author: 00c12f
-
New car with end rate or used car?
Hello people, I wanted to buy a car soon. Only I don’t know what makes more sense. 1. comes a new Seat Ibiza in question, 86 HP, climate etc. for about 13500 € – I would then pay 4000, for example, would have to pay over 24 months installments, e.g. 150 € monthly and would have a final rate of around 7000 €. The whole with about 3 % financing at Seat. 2. I buy a used Audi A3, built in 2002 with about 120.000 KM on the clock for 5000-6000 € also incl. climate etc. What would you do it? I mean – 13500 € – incl. credit it is around 14000 € – for a small but brand new car Or don’t even spend half on a beautiful Audi A3. How is that with loss of value? I saw a similar 2-3 year old Ibiza with around 20,000 KM you get used for about 10,000 – 11,000 €. Are also lost again in the 2 years 3,000 €… I don’t know quite further ! 🙂
-
A4 Avant New Cars – Leasing Rate
Hello, was today with my Audi dealer and found there an A4 Avant 2,0 TDI with a lot of accessories. The car is supposed to cost a total of 46450€ incl. VAT. For this the seller first calculated me a leasing rate of 630€ (36 months, 30000km per year). After a short negotiation he then went down to 599€ per month. He said so almost no profit for them. Is the leasing rate of 599 (NETTO) for a car of 46450€ (incl. VAT) ok? Give the actually no discount on the list price? Would be nice for every tip, since I want to decide on Monday. MfG
-
What’s after the mileage lease contract
Since greetings……..Have a question,so my leasing contract is still running for a good year and I would like to leave the car house where I signed the contract.So don’t talk about a new leasing contract there,now my mind is that it’s not going to be that way.From here is your car and goodbye……..That I have to come up for damage is clear to me,but would it go like this???Thank you for your answers……
-
Hercules Prima Mofa exhaust jack loose? The solution!
Hello together I have already searched the net, but I have never found a real solution for the known problem. Therefore I would like to describe here my solution approach: I have a Hercules Optima with plugged manifold connection. With this connection a steel tube is poured in in the aluminium cylinder, which likes to loosen, so that the exhaust is unpleasantly loud and the whole oil soap runs down at the manifold. The idea is now to mill out the tube. Before welding, of course, the spot has to be irradiated so that there are no problems with welding. I have now tested my procedure on a Prima Mofa cylinder before I go to my rare Optima cylinder. Here you can see how far I am at the moment. The steel tube at the bottom of the cylinder has only 2 holes, which are poured with the aluminium of the cylinder. If you mill the aluminium there, you can start the tube. I had to grind the cooling ribs around the outlet a little bit away in order to be able to weld properly later on. Since the cylinder has a grey cast iron socket, I am not worried about delay in welding. More pictures will follow
-
Selling Golf V
I have the Golf 5 of my wife standing here, who has to leave. -Golf V 5-door 1.4l 75hp -2004 -280.000km -Out of air and electric window lifter front he has no equipment Temporary is a good Bosch battery from my E30 in it, which I expand again before the sale. I also build out the accessories radio from Alpine. He has rusted rust at the front of the sills/corner fenders, door edges and tailgate already. 2 years ago my wife had the transmission overtaken (Nivets on the plate) wheel torn off / plate wheel was completely renewed). Because of rust both fenders were also renewed. About 6 months ago a wheel bearing was renewed at the VA and the HA was derusted. Saddles cleaned, rust on swings removed, brake discs + pads + anchor plates renewed. Now the TÜV has expired and the car is to be removed because of a new car. The question is what makes sense now. -Try to make TÜV new and then sell for 500€? -Without TÜV offer or better climb rn? – Degrading wings, selling separately and disposing of remaining cars (that would not please my wife? -Unregister, wait until autumn and sell as a winter car? The car has already been cared for and washed down. Mine could of course do nothing against the rust. Engine runs impeccable and does not consume oil.
-
Black rear lights
Servus! have seen a car with black tail lights (looks like black lacquered out) and I absolutely want to have that on my boob. I noticed on the edge that the ne kind of tint film is, which is even entryable, do you know where I get it?? Thank you and greetings, Frank
-
Harley Days in Hamburg – I want to get out of here !!
Moin, I just drove a little with the moped through the city (Hamburg) – and ÜÜÜÜÜ-BER-ALL are the super cool guys with their Harleys on the way. I find it so gruesome. The guys feel so cool that it hurts. And don’t think that even one of the bums greets when you meet with a R1. Then at the event itself: I wonder where most of them hide the rest of the year – probably in the garage while cleaning or on I’m glad Monday’s over. What do you think of it?? Greetings Kai
-
The final opponent of all problem scooters?! [TPH125]
Our TPH 125 is still ruining my holiday here… In DE the scooter ran perfectly. Then I released the battery, drained petrol (by vacuum the tank run empty), drained oil (tank dismantled and turned upside down) and transported the scooter lying in the car about 30h to Spain. Here arrived battery connected, petrol and oil filled up – start attempt: NIX! Starter turns and turns… but the box does not start. Low pressure gasoline tap works. Airfil ter is new. Zündfunke and a new candle are here. Candle is wet, so mixture should arrive.So far made: membrane block removed. Was OK. I cleaned it anyway. Built-in. No success. Intake nozzle was slightly cracked. I glued it completely. No success. Gasifier removed. No nozzles & mechanics completely running. Cleaned, built-in. No success. E-choke connected. No success. E-choke completed. No success. Ignition plug: Electrode distance reduced / enlarged. No success. Suspect 1: Crankcase ventilation clogged. Hose removed. No success. I discovered – and that was new to me – that the TPH has a second tank, right under the footboard & on the leg sign. In addition, various pipes and T-pieces to a kind of vacuum pump. Can someone explain their function to me? Bzw. which hose in the system serves for what? Not that something filled with petrol during lying transport what the “breath” or the pressure compensation (crankcases) Aeration) of the engine is hindered. Suspect 2: Oil warning switch. When starting / trying to start, the oil lamp lights up in the speedometer. Is this normal? Can an oil (pressure) switch or the oil pump be defective so that it does not start, OBWOHL has sparks of ignition? Suspect 3: Ignition time. Can it adjust? How can I check this? Do you have any other ideas?