Author: 00c12f

  • Search car up to approx. 15,000€ (approx. 60,000km per year)

    Hello, our old Passat gives up the spirit and now I am looking for a new economical car and am actually open to everything. I have a daily driving distance to work of 90km, so that I am at least 180km on the road on the day and in the year I come about 55000 – 60000 km. So far I had a Diesl, but also consider whether a gas car would be profitable. What would be feasible for the price and what would Sinvoll? Thanks already to everyone. Greeting Nacks

  • New used for <20Tkm/a searched

    Now I don’t want to say that money doesn’t matter, but I’m quite willing to pay for a good vehicle. This afternoon I was already on the road and I noticed a vehicle positive. A Citroen C5 2.0 16V Tendance, well-kept by a Citroen dealer (who also took over the maintenance), BJ 2008, 30000km for almost 12000 Euronen. I just fit in (must take off anyway). Test drive is still pending. I would ask the forum to help me find a generous vehicle (brand/type) not smaller than the above. Budget would be up to 15k€ For suggestions (no Asian, I am uncompromising) I would be grateful! Greetings fixed lighting

  • Kymco Heroism CDI defective ? At full throttle suddenly off – Zuendkerze black –

    Hello friends I drove with us today on the “finish straight” about 300 meters full throttle. Suddenly brrrrruuuummm and the donkey went out. Start attempts remained only without success, afterwards he went zoegernd over E- starter. However only for about 2 minutes. A new attempt to start remained only without success. After that he went on but immediately out again. The whole happened to me now for the second time. At the first time it was the Zuendkerze. The mechanic changed them to me u nd said I should use better oil, because the candle picture was black. The current candle was installed on 24.05.2016 and is the original BR8HSA. However, I was recommended the BR9HS for my SET UP. My question is now: A candle NGK should keep according to the manufacturer in about 8000km. Can a defective CDI be the cause for that, that the donkey the candles really “fret” ?? on the cylinder it can not lie, he had no compression would the kick starter spin through. Abge see of it the cylinder is 6 months old and by an Italian market leader .. The whole happened now 2x and always at full throttle ..

  • Sym Jet Euro 50 X Built 2005 (G5J or BL05W) 45Km/h Approval

    Moin, does someone happen to have a sym jetz Euro 50 X Built 00 – 05 with 45km/h registration? My son has been driving the scooter for 2 years and since he now has the driver’s license with accompanied driving, he is also allowed to drive scooters with 45km/h. We wanted to upgrade the scooter, but unfortunately we don’t get any information if this is possible and if so, how. To make it clear: this is not about illegal tunes, I’m talking about a legal upgrade. Problem is simple: TÜV has the registration original customers of both The 45s version also has more power, so the engine has to be throttled. Sanyang doesn’t move anything out, points out the dealers. The dealers also don’t want anything out, want more money than the scooter is worth for the conversion… 🙁 What I know for sure so far: it’s NOT throttled over the CDI! Even the Vario-Matik-Rings alone don’t do anything, since the engine then runs out of the “pust” over gauf e.g. I have already made various searches for the type approvals, but only Dutch pages come up and there it is allowed on 45km/ – is really milking to the mouse… Must be somehow possible without that cost 500€?!? So if someone has such a scooter with official 45s approval, I would be grateful for a contact, possibly offline.

  • Jetforce bj 2006

    Hello and good day. Here’s a little update to my jetforce. I bought this as in another post already mentioned as a construction site and prepared it so far that it starts. Said construction site only jumped with start help spray and then drove then also first. So I put myself on and first air filter, carburetor, suction tracked & membrane removed. Intake tracked and membrane were absolutely scrap and porous, that was valid for the seals. The carburetor absolute Kata strophe and without any chuke. Of course he didn’t want to. Have bought these parts also all together new. The compression is at 9.05 bar,should be more than sufficient. Now everything is installed and after 500 times kicking the carburettor had also decided to run full and start the engine. Engine also runs great. My problem is now, it jumps well at very good even, accelerates absolutely top,BUT ….. Only until it is warm, then up to about 25 30 kmh afterwards He goes to his knees in terms of speed, engine is smoked duller and he takes forever until he has reached his 45 50 kmh. Now my guess is that the carburetor of Dellorto 17.5 is the cause. Have left everything that belonged to the carburetor or delivery so and built in. My question would be he gets too much or too little sprung? Or what could be the cause? New: Spark plug spark plugs plugs carburetor + membrane + suction track Related seals.

  • Fill the brake ventilator with air

    Hi, I have a question. I have worked with a ventilator many times before but I have never filled it myself. The procedure is clear to me. I feel the device with brake fluid and compressed air. Then I connect it to the car, set the working pressure and open the valve on the hose. Then I escape. Now I have a question how to get the air into the device. I have a compressor that is set to 8 bar. At the compressor is then the hose with clutch. But do I need anything else between clutch and vent? When does the device know it’s full? does it have an overpressure valve or something? Didn’t find a precise description of this venting device I want to get.

  • BMW 330D E46 many km!

    hello to everyone! I’ve been driving a mitsubishi carisma (90ps) for quite some time now and want to buy a new car. after I’m a bmw fan you can already think about what a car it’s going to be like I’ve been rummaging around a little bit and I found a 330d e46! Link: http://www.brauchtwagen.at/detailview.php?id_fahrzeug=2569339 if you can believe what’s there is actually a good impression on me, I mean the full equipment , the 180ps automatic, etc… (but I would drive to the ÖAMTC(ADAC) service and also have a “visit” of the car carried out) I already have a bit of idea of the whole thing, since I have already repaired some parts myself with my carisma ^^ (with a friend cylinder head, with me some parts of the coupling or couplingnehner….) and since I am a student I do not have the money for a bmw with 80tkm around >20,000€ my budget is so up to 800€ and I know yes d ass such a bmw pretty money swallowing tab what I don’t know is, what about the 190tkm??? none how this affects the automatic transmission thanks!

  • Buying a car

    Good day, we are about to sell our Golf V GT TDI (170 hp) and buy us a new car, which I will drive for the most part.For the car are available in about 12.00€ (for the golf sale have been charged in about 10,000€). Otherwise we still own the Touareg V6 TDI and an Audi A7 3.0 TDI.My requirements for the new car are: – 4-5 seats – Sporty – 0-100 not faster than 8s – no Fiat, Ford, Opel or BMW – PDC (back) – possible hst 4 tuerigUntil now I have taken a closer look at: – VW Scirocco (scratch very much on budget, alternatives?) – Seat León Would I be pleased about further proposals, LG

  • Discount protection and change of insurance

    Hello, I have the possibility to get a discount protection for (approx.) 40 € a year with my insurance. Now in the last or the penultimate AMS on the subject of discount protection, you should not do that because you would be regraded if you changed the insurance after all. Now for me to understand: Where should the disadvantage lie there? the following example: I have SF 25 and build an accident. I am then regraded (e.g. in SF 15). If I change the insurance now , I will be classified there (also as an example) in SF 15. Now I have SF 25 and discount protection. I build an accident and stay with my insurance in SF 25. If I change the insurance now, I will be classified there in SF 15. Where is the disadvantage now? As long as I do not intend to change, I can only see advantages (except for the contribution) and if I change, do I have no disadvantages? Did I miss anything? Greetings Jan

  • Insurance cover when the fire is extinguished

    Hi, a question, I had it last with a buddy about why he doesn’t have a fire extinguisher in the car. So he meant that if you delete your car yourself during a fire, you don’t get the damage done, so no insurance cover! I mean no question if I’m stuck after the accident and the car starts to burn inside I try to delete of course. It’s only about now if I have a cable fire or whatever, stop and delete this. I get the damage. replaces or must I have my car torched?? Greetings