MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Accident/High damage/Unclear liability

    6 weeks ago I had an accident in which my car was badly damaged. (holes in the door & side, driver door/windows no longer close, side skirts&B column damaged) =>cars no longer traffic-proof, “emergency repair” also not possible, damage at your own expense is not possible for me at a 5-digit damage height(&unclarified question if vll. total damage). After a total of 8 (!) clerks of both insurance companies give me no really concrete information k I have contacted a lawyer who said the same thing. Now the report I commissioned was sent 4 weeks ago to the insurance company, but besides one please for patience to check the case nothing happened. Therefore, my question is whether someone has experience with how long it can take e until I can be told how much responsibility is borne by who ?

  • Is the change of insurance worth it for you this time?

    Hi I have calculated once as every year, where it would be cheaper for me KfZ-Versicherungsmodell from 1.1.10 on and am quite surprised. Everywhere I would have to pay more than now, my insurance Allsecur would keep the premium about the same. That completely surprises me, because otherwise I could always save by changing with the same or sometimes even better services at least 60 euros per year. Is this also so with you this time? Did it count with various comparators. Also on insurance websites it didn’t look any better. Example: Beetle (0603/471) Built 99, 75000 km, annual mileage 9000 km, 2005 first registered on me, road parker in DO, SF 4 from 2010, TK 150 SB, Marder damages are to be covered, FS since 1991 available, no kids, is driven only by me (m, BJ 1970), no damage so far. Currently I pay 75 Euro in the quarter. Is it really not cheaper? E.g. so 50-60 Euro in the quarter? I would be so happy if I had the tradition (ii) the rate of increase in the number of working days per week.

  • alternator – battery does not load

    Hello to the forum, I’m relative layman and have a problem with a stacker where the battery is not charged. I changed the alternator, the control (is external) and the battery. Unfortunately, the battery light is still lit and the battery is not charged either. The alternator and the controller are equal to the old parts and the occupation of the cables (at least the color coding) the plug is the same. If someone has a tip as I can find the error or w Since a forklift can unfortunately not simply be driven into the workshop I would be happy about every tip. Would it be possible, for example, that the polarity on the controller is wrong? Or can a simple “cable break” be the cause. Since the forklift is already older, it can not be due to any “electronics” – since none is available. I am happy about a feedback.

  • 1.3 liter Super fuelled at Common Rail Diesel

    Dear Forum, I’m having quite a panic because I’m having a bad luck today: I’m driving an Audi A1 TDI (Common-Rail – 95 HP) and by accident (tank was filled in reserve i.e. about 5 liters of diesel) super fueled. After 1.39 l (i.e. actually “immediately” I realized my bad luck and contacted the Audi serviceline. There I was connected to an Audi technician who said “Refuel diesel and drive, as nothing should happen with such a small amount of it. So about 40 liters of diesel fuelled and followed this advice – which is pretty much the impulse for the whole dilemma. On the way to the office I read that even the smallest quantities are sufficient for modern diesel engines – at the latest I panicked – and therefore drove to a VW/Audi/Skoda workshop. The service acceptance there also meant “no problem – now you have a “winter diesel” … Well, so I “calmly” drive again to the office, and after i ntensivem Googlen I come back to the realization: In the Worstcase everything is “hinnig” (as we say in Austria) – i.e. injectors, pipes, pump… Well – panic level rises again – so I call my dealer, where I leased the item – the technician also said “with such a small amount there should be nothing…”. But now I am still not quite reassured: Is it really so that with such a small amount everything is OK (acceptance: I am now refueling imme r busy on after every ride..) or should I now set any actions? I am simply irritated by the advice of Audi to continue driving – would they have said “pump out!” I would have done so immediately! Please for urgent help! Thank you

  • Switches for service life battery

    Hi, since my BMW e36 BJ 2003/11 is almost at the end of the Baterie after 1 month of service life and with new lead battery, I would like to install a switch (interruption of the Minus Pole). Which type would you recommend Schlater? Pay attention to wa sist? Is mInus the better choice? Quote: If you install a main switch, you switch the entire vehicle current over it. So the switch has to carry the entire load. A small resistance of 20mOhm, which can form quite quickly if the switch is open for a longer time, can fry up to 3 volts at the start. So the car would not want to start properly with longer service life.

  • Battery question: Can a new battery be old?

    Hello. A question that I’ve been busy for a long time – how is it with new batteries you don’t know how long to stand on the shelf? The time when you buy a lead battery the same is just filled with acid are over. Practically all are “maintenance-free” What does the things are filled inside the factory and then stand in the factory and shop. 2 months. 6months. Maybe also 1 year. What happens during this time? They are unloaded and sulfate? Because no store has 1x per month n Charger drann. Looking forward to the answers Gruss, Marco

  • Thinking differently: which car to keep? Hunday Trajet or Chevy Kalos or both away?

    Moin, I’m facing the following problem: We buy a new car (non-discussable, the wallet is available) Dacia Dokker Celebration because of the large space offered and because it’s the one with LPG drive, there’s no big extra cost (which can be found at the purchase then quite elsewhere) We’re currently driving: Hyundai Trajet 2Ltr 130 hp (I think) with LPG 210,000 km Chevrolet Kalos 1.2 liters 72 hp, LPG , 130,000 km Both cars have their age traps (A/C is flat, the chassis crackles), which Engines both run without sounding. Possible problems with the Hyundai is the alternator (the battery only charges properly on long distances, the workshop claims the charging voltage would be a little too low), the gas pump from the LPG drive, other aggregates such as the steering hydraulics, water punpe etc. pp. At the kalos the suspension kranks when steering left, especially if it is warm, when it is cool and damp, there is almost nothing to hear (m.E. must definitely soon in the workshop) Brake n new, spark plugs and ignition cables. I can’t say anything about the aggregates off the A/C. The following thoughts guide me: I would rather keep the trajet because the lot of cargo space offers. The kalos is younger, but offers hardly any space and on long distances it is really exhausting to drive. (place we need, and it often goes across Germany) With both vehicles I can’t judge the possible lifespan, I find no reasonable statements. Motor for the more durable, but what about the other units? (I found one at autoscout24 with 300,000 km) So there are the following possibilities: 1. Keep Trajet 2. Keep Kalos 3. Do not pump all the money into the Dokker, but sell both end-of-life vehicles and buy a younger used with LPG for the Dokker. (But which?) The crux is: I can’t judge how durable the Kalos or the Hyundai is. I know that this may only be about opinions. I would be grateful for any factual statement about these two vehicles regarding durability. Is there any other way of thinking that I don’t see? What is a good used alternative in the 4k€ range for the Trajet with similar room dimensions and good reliability? Thank you for reading, your patience and your expertise, also for opinions.

  • Which diesel engineization is advantageous here?

    Hello. So far I have only driven cars that had max. up to about 100 hp and to the petroler, no diesel. Now I consider myself to buy a used diesel from approx. BJ.2002. “In the past it was said that diesels are more durable, but something “carrying” can one assume of these diesel cars from BJ. approx. 2000 also? How high should one go with a diesel engineization, to have a bit of driving fun? I mean no races and also no diesel “Sch Lucker- (but average consumption up to approx. 8 liters/100 km). I go out with my question of max. 4 doors, so no “giant”-combis, or multi-vans, etc. I think e.g. about 140 hp at approx.2000 cm3 would be advantageous?OR would you not need to grab so much, or WELCHE Diesel-Motorization DARUNTER would be ok for my wishes?BEISPIELE:Toyota Corolla 1.4 D-4D Luna:http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?…Renault Clio 1.5 dci:http://suche.mobile.de/…/details.html?…Seat Ibiza 1.9 TDI:http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Greetings

  • Accident, not to blame, how best to handle it?

    Hello, my daughter has someone rushed into the passenger side. Police on the spot, the accident opponent has received a warning. Opponential insurance (HUK, there you can see what super service is) sends a letter on the same day, confirms the entry obligation. And of course suggest their all-round service, i.e. they handle everything for us. Naturally very nice and extremely customer-oriented, we would not have best contacts to body builders and paintrs… How do we do it now best ? We believe: 1 Kovo collect from the contract workshop, possibly costs for this 2 these submit with the opposing insurance 3 deduct the amount of the VAT take 4 usage failure get pauschel 5 car at the brother-in-law have repaired is that correct? Of course not, undeclared work is never correct. But neighborhood help is already, or . My daughter is Azubi, and there is crownish ebb in the cash register.

  • HUK insurance does not want to pay windshield

    Hello dear community, I have a problem…. Last week I wanted to attach my iphone to the front window. while doing so, the windshield is torn. I naturally called my HUK insurance,,,,, because unfortunately owns a “KASKO SELECT” insurance,,, that’s why they recommended me a partner workshop from where I also had to go. I went there too…. wanted to not have my disc repaired, because they were too unfriendly and of course the SB did not take over HUK therefore wants to pay me 660EUR – 150EUR (SB) and 85% of it. Was for me also at the beginning a fair price because I found a workshop which makes it cheaper. only those who thought that the disk which is listed in the cost estimate would be wrong. In the cost estimate of the insurance a normal windshield is listed. Quotation: ZITAT VOM COSTENVORA NSCHLAG: …… – Windshield get Parts-nr. 51317070294 Price: 347 Eur Only the right disc for my car would be the : Quote: – For vehicles with head-up display and automatic air conditioning S610A=Yes S534A=Yes 01 windshield green rain sensor parts-nr. 51317070296 Price 381€ (although on the internet it costs the best 523,60 €) the ca.30 Euro does not want to give to the insurance, because the opinion is that the windshield is recommended by bmw, and that I have received wrong information te. Called at the workshop that created the cost preview. but they said that they can’t do anything with the part number I called them. because that always varies thanks data: BMW 530i Bj 2004 rain sensor and HEAD UP DISPLAY