Moin Forum, I’ve fulfilled my little dream and bought me a big dog “Pit Bull ” 2 months ago. The moped is built in 2003 and has the ” small S&S engine with 107 cui. Small sounds already somehow sweet when you think that the moped has according to performance diagram 109 Ps from 1800 cc. I would have been terressed once if there were even more Big Dog or Iron Horse riders and would have liked to share experience. So biker, report and tell you what you have for experience and expect a and have your mopeds.
Author: 00c12f
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,Discounts !!!
Hello, at present I am dealing with the topic of discount savers. Many insurance companies today offer discount savers in which one can avoid that one is higher graded after a damage, but this discount saver refers only to the current insurance, i.e. you change the insurer automatically higher grade if in the insurance year a damage case had been with the previous insurer, so one is forced after a damage case at the present time But now comes a thing which some have already experienced, because because of 2 or three cases of damage, i.e. a damage in liability and two damage cases in the partial cascade, the insured person has been dismissed and he has to switch to another insurer, but he immediately ranks him higher because the discount saver has only been valid with the pre-insurer. My question knows if there are already court judgments on this subject,because for what did I pay the extra fee for a discount saver when I was forced to get higher at another company? MfG
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Guarantee vs. guarantee insurance, non-insured parts remain the responsibility of the sale
Evening together, I bought a car and received a guarantee insurance from EinsAuto / GermanAssistance. After half a year the secondary air system is now defective and will cost around 1250€. I think this should not be a problem because the insurance exists. I only thought that, because the damage site shared with me that the secondary air system is not part of the engine but is an attachment part and therefore not covered by the “comprehensive vehicle warranty” w In general, you showed your finger with the tip to be repaired by telephone, since you certainly don’t expect anything, since only parts that are explicitly mentioned in the insurance contract are insured. (The answer to my question was funny, why not call the excluded parts: “No customer would like to read 1000 pages through ” ) So now I stand there with the costs. But this insurance was actually only an addition of the dealer z if the insurance is not responsible, then the warranty obligation would have to fall back on the dealer. Or do you automatically withdraw from all warranty claims if you get such an insurance booklet with it? Does ever have experience with it, because the dealer wants to convince me 100% of this because the warranty insurance is suspended. I hope you can help me. Thanks and Greetings GM
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First car – cost?
Hello, I’ve been driving my driver’s license in the form of “climbing”, de facto 17 years old. I’ve driven a few times with my father’s girlfriend’s Golf 6 but that’s all. My father won’t let me drive in his 107, i.a. because the insurance is expensive and he’s afraid of his car. That’s going to be 18, I’m not going to change in January. I don’t need a car in itself, because I’m going to have to take the school in 3 minutes by Fahrad erreic so it would only be interesting for me if I could collect with 17 driving experience and could drive at 18 e.g. times to festivals or to be able to visit friends and relatives without having to take the train. So pure play, but I like cars anyway. *g* The problem is, I don’t even know in the beginning what costs come to me. As a student I have my child’s allowance (184€) per month as well as my salary as newspaper expenses r (44€). The bottom line, however, is that in the month less all the planned costs are only about 160-180€. Not the force, but I would drive a little… My question is really only how high the purchase and maintenance costs (without gasoline, but with TÜV etc. included and distributed over one month) in the month look like. I don’t need a station wagon or PS monster! If who could help me there it would be great – maybe the Sunday afternoon idea will be something serious. Greetings
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Reminder for alleged lack of insurance
Hello together! I have a problem with Strassenverkehrsamt. Had had me an offer of an insurance about automobile Vers.. But did not accept this and was and am still with my old verse. What I did not know is that the verse, where I asked for me at the registration office probably signed off (display according to § 25 Ab.s1 FZV) and I was therefore considered uninsured, although I was still with my old verse.. After I was written, I have this by mail and Tel. explained and my present verse. wrote a confirmation to the street prison. I thought that this would be settled. But now came a warning, the office continues to demand the money. Do I have to pay? What should I do? Thanks for the help!!
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ABE for Shelby Original rims wanted!
Hello everyone; I hope someone can help me with my problem with the TÜV! Bzw. I got a Shelby GT-500 Bj 2007 with Originale SVT alufelgen VA 19 the problem is that the Tüv, without a valid ABE or at least a data sheet of the rims, does not want to/can enter the new tires for me and proposes me to make a single purchase for 800€-1,200€ again. Where I would get almost a new set of tires for it… Since the rims are from SVT and you can buy them also by Ford, should somehow be possible to get the technical data, where on it stands with which tires can be driven and thus my new tires a The Ford dealer at my place around the corner told me that US-Ford vehicles had no idea and could not order spare parts either. So I’m here now! Thank you very much!
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Rustic converters and varnishes
Hello, I made the mistake of riding salt with my top-maintained motorcycle in winter. It was only two, maximum three rides, the box was also oiled, but in some places the bike now looks ten years older than a few months ago. That annoys me very much. In particular, the galvanized iron (screws, nuts, other small parts) was attacked, it is everywhere covered with a whitish corrosion covering and is generally tired, even the black anoxic In some places, the orange rust passes through. The starter housing looked like new last year, now it’s totally hurried. I want to take care of it now gradually, to get that halfway back. I will replace the rusted motor screws with stainless steel screws. In some places, however, where pure steel has been installed, such as on the water/oil heat exchanger at a certain point is rust. This e.g. i I can’t disassemble it without letting off the liquids. I would like to treat the rusty parts with a rust converter. The rust converters I know are based on phosphoric acid. I can’t use this because there is a risk that it will also come from the paint. Question: Is there rust converters or similar that are not based on acid and are reasonably varnish-friendly? It is frustrating, when I dismantled the rear wheel before the winter, was the aluminum swinger inside lightning clean, the axle could also be removed with little pressure and pushed in again. Today I had to loosen it first with the rubber hammer and sand the shingle paper again smooth and also in the swinger and on the chain tensioner is everywhere crumbly, cocaine-like aluminum oxide. I did not want to believe it, but can now be stuck two or three rides in salt are enough to fuck up the mopped.
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Purchase advice first motorcycle: enduro/Naked?
Hello! I’ve dealt in detail with different bikes the last few days. Nevertheless, I have a few short questions now. Basically: I can drive up to 48hp, I am 1.90m tall, 90kg heavy. Motorcycle for daily short distances in the city and every 2-3 days 60km country road to visit my friend. If possible but also sometimes 300km routes including highway. Super sportsmen like e.g. the suzuki GSX600 are for the beginning I don’t believe anything – much read about that they In the end it will probably go out on a naked bike or an enduro. First question: I have read in some places that enduros are not suitable for highways and highways? (Grade in comparison to Naked Bikes) Otherwise I have looked at the following: Naked Bikes: – Suzuki Gs500E – Kawasaki WEg – Honda CB500 – (bandit 400/600) Enduro: – Suzuki DR650 – Suzuki 650 Freewind I all like the most. The 500 Naked Bikes are also great. Second question: something important forgotten? Third question: there are several offers for the gs500 with year of construction ~ 1993 and ~35000km. The CB500 is available for 200€ more BJ 2002, but with 60,000km. Does age km-stand here or vice versa? Fourth question: about basic notes I am also very grateful! Vg
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Clutch problem/ Clutch adjustment
Hello guys, I have a Kawa Z650 and I can’t get the clutch as I would like it to be. When the clutch is pulled, the gears go in extremely unsavory, then I set the clutch so that the gears switch smoothly the clutch doesn’t pick up properly when accelerating and it feels like the coverings are glazed. I’ve already installed new coverings and new springs and filled new oil 10W40 minerally. I was hoping to achieve a better result. he unfortunately everything remained the same, except that I have a better (longer) grinding point through the new coverings. It seems to me that the coupling path that I put back through the Bowden train is too short and thus the coupling does not separate as it should. But how should I change this?? Now I am really absout and at the end with my wisdoms.. Hopefully someone can help me here. Anyway, thank you very much for your answers.
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Used purchasing advice <1000ccm, Naked / Enduro, ABS
Hello! Since I’m looking for zZ again and didn’t want to pick up an old thread, I thought I’d open it. I have a CBF500 and now I need a few tips. With <5k budget the selection is limited, a used purchase makes sense. Since I like to have light motorcycles, ksm I first to the Duke 390, where this is now not necessarily more brisk than the 500s. But I guess the low weight is already a big plus, because you may be even freer and Then I saw that even a 690er is running out, of course the predecessor of the current model. Does the advantages in terms of quality, since it was not produced abroad? Does this make more sense in the long term and is the current 390er Duke with regard to installed parts even better than a 690er from the year 2012 or not? Otherwise a hornet would be possible, probably also a GSR600. Their exhaust looks good and she has a gear indicator, But with regard to ABS, the Hornet should be better. What about the materials? Are they the same? Is everything the Honda bike even better? If so, then I would like to compare it with the Duke 690. The ABS should be similarly good, down-touring you drive with the Japanese better, certainly also on the highway, because it is quieter and it goes up more. For that it is heavier and I don't know if you feel even lighter and carefree with a Duke, which you can before I look at it, I have to find out what's going on with a test drive. Jefoch is hard to find a 2012 Duke and she shouldn't be newer, otherwise you're probably disappointed. Can you answer the questions and what would you advise?