MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Underbody

    Hello again! So my fiesta should get again tüv (18 years old) ….. Since the whole underfloor rusts quite strongly a friend kfz master gave me two possibilities to come through the TÜV and I should choose a possibility. One possibility would be to spray properly with such a kind of spachtel mass and then paint with underfloor varnish and then to lubricate with much underfloor protection. The other possibility would be everything with rust converter very much d after 12 hours rinse off with high-pressure cleaner and look at how stable it is, because thin underfloor protection spray over it. . What possibility would you take and why? Please don’t write that both is stupid, I barely have a cent and need the car urgently. What does the car hold with even longer?

  • Charge the battery

    Hello together my first post here and immediately a question: I use my Ford Explorer year 2015 as a microcamper, but without the car really as a camper, I say I have no second consumer battery in the car. In the reason I simply have a mattress in the back and always when I am at the campsite I have all my consumers at an external power source. However, since I often have to get to the car, door open and close, suitcases open and go every time I open the door di e Interior lighting, the display etc. on and consumes electricity from the start battery. I don’t want to remodel the car as I use it as a camper only a few weeks a year, i.e. jam the interior lighting etc. does not come into question. If I stand for a two days in one place I get massive problems with the charge of the start battery and can hardly start the car any more. Now my question: would the problem solve itself and would be that at all possible if I just every time I come to the campsite, connect the start battery to a charger (example CTEK 5.0) and have the charger permanently on until I start again a few days later? According to my understanding, then the battery, which discharges during the day through the indoor lighting etc. in the night will be discharged again and I would have a full start battery the next day. Do I have a thinking error? Thank you for your input in this matter.

  • Bikers are looking for family carriages up to x thousand euros (~5k)

    Dear hobby horsepower professionals, I guess it’s time: after 30 years I have to get my first car, although I’m actually a passionate fighter cyclist and find cars stupid… (Is nonsense, I think cars are really good, just crazy expensive. Otherwise I would drive Daimler long ago). The reason: I have to transport Pampers, prams and the reason for Pampers and prams in the future.The problem: I only know myself with bicycles, not with passenger cars. itätsprofil: The requirement profile: Budget: How much do you have to spend? I would set 5k Euros as a benchmark. If it is 4k: nice. If it is 6k: okay. Excursus – Questions about the process of buying used cars: I thank you already in advance for the friendly answers.

  • Ordinary tool case for hobby screwdrivers up to 300€?

    Hello, didn’t know which forum I should do the best, but I am looking for a neat tool case with good equipment for the hobby kingdom for car screwing and for at home up to 300€. I realize that it is not very much money and you can expect nothing great and there are very good products of steel will, Gedore or Hazet. However, these are too expensive for hobby screwing from time to time. I am already using the following brands with well equipped tools suitcases pushed: – Famex – BGS – KS Tools – Mannesmann – Proxxon – Wera Can someone post me a purchase recommendation or has someone already made positive and negative experiences with the brands? The tool case should hold something and not straighten out the ratchets or nuts immediately after a few inserts. I expect for the price up to 300€ no professional tool, however, something that you can use well as a hobby screwdriver quality also some time. Thank you

  • Carlifter + compressor searched (tire change 2x year)

    Hi together, as it says in the title, I am looking for a cheap (up to max. 150 EUR) hydraulic jack (preferably from ALU wg. lower weight, with rubber support and a working drain valve, so that my car does not shoot from 0 to 100 on the ground.) Which part would you recommend me? At Amazon I would have discovered this here: http://goo.gl/Y6V7p5 Does what (because only 1.5 tons) or rather something else? And a compressor to measure tire air pressure het At Amazon, for example, there are:http://goo.gl/LhLvOf In another thread, I have already found a suitable tyre filler with pressure gauge:http://goo.gl/XJlX0e What do you think? I don’t know about compressors in particular and rely on your opinion!

  • Batteries – AGM, lead acid, GEL

    Hello, can someone tell me how much you can practically draw from the lead batteries? With the LiFeYPo4 it is 91%, after that the voltage sinks into the danger area. I got a “used” AGM with 70Ah, which shows as idle voltage just 12.3V one day after Volladen and just not 13.0 or 13.3. Sometimes it is also only 12.0V. I loaded it once and then turned on all lamps and unloaded within 3h. When reloading the charger explained 50Ah I would agree with the 50Ah, would be 71%, while 12.0 or 12.3V would look more like a slow death process. How much did the AGM really measure at the time? An old wet battery had just recorded 29Ah at such a death. 2. Does someone have an AGM with them and can sometimes measure the voltage straight? 3. Whether one can take the more robust GEL batteries in the car or tolerate the no high charging currents and burst? Gel should be far more durable than AGM and wet. It is therefore recommended in the yacht area, as they can not allow kittens on the sea.

  • GMC 6.2 l diesel does not run round

    Hello everyone, I hope I’m right here. My name is Peter and I’ve had a GMC pick-up for about 15 years with the 6.2 diesel Bj.84. 8years ago I retrofitted a bench turbocharger, otherwise the engine is still original. Has never let me down since, except cover parts such as starter light mesh and water pump. Last year I had a defective head seal and then changed both. With heads plan valves and some new pre-burning chambers. The car ran like a clockwork again. I just registered because I have the following problem. Since a holiday in Denmark the engine is no longer running round, makes the impression as if only seven pöttes run. When I give gas it is not so audible anymore. When driving you notice a little the power loss and at lower speeds the whole engine “shakes” itself. In the cold condition also a dull knock can be heard. In a Wekstatt they meant crankshaft bearings defective. But from now on geich??? And the diesel always sounds a little “rapid”. Oil pressure is full there, engine starts well and also takes good gas. I haven’t driven since. (In winter I don’t drive, so the car was standing for quite a long time.) Does anyone have an idea? Greeting Peter

  • Albig wants a hundred a year.

    …and obviously only by private road users. With this our roads are to be renovated..yes. Yearly special tax he calls that and explains the whole with the so high costs. One thing he has forgotten: of about 53 mrd tax revenues not even half for their actual use are cut out… but for other crap. What do you mean? Or is all this something like a real-political ”I quit my account” appearance for the headlines’ sake … read you smart

  • Scooter no longer works

    Hello, I bought a used scooter a few days ago ( Explorer Spin Ge 50). The first problem is, the battery was already defective when I bought it, so I bought a new one and installed it. Nevertheless, the E starter and the turn signal do not work. So far I have always started it with Kickstarter. When I left Berg (approx. 60Kmh) the scooter suddenly took no more gas and had power loss. Then I took gas away and braked it. nn the scooter had its full performance again. So I drove again (still mountain off) when I was again at about 60Kmh, the scooter took no gas again and had power loss again, but this time it went out completely. I tried to start the scooter with the kick starter several times but it didn’t work anymore. I can’t get the scooter at all. Can you help me?

  • Repair axe cuffs or quality of glue cuffs?

    Hello, with my car (Hyundai Santa Fe SM from 2001) it is very difficult to get the drive shaft out, according to a forum article, to that in another post it is necessary to exchange the axle cuff (wheel side) . According to my research not much are good axle cuffs to stick – but the posts were all older. Now I wonder if there are now good glue cuffs or if there are possibilities for permanent repair of the axle cuff. ch a bitumen repair tape for gutters attached to the defective cuff and these with cable ties – this is of course not a permanent solution but maybe someone has a good idea. What is not obvious to me as a layman is that one needs fat in the drive shaft if this anyway due to the centrifugal forces does not stick to the joint during the ride … maybe someone can explain that. Currently only one cuff is affected but the other 7 also look porous, i.e. i.e. h will have the problem more often because I want to drive the car for a long time, so I’m only looking for permanent solutions. Thank you very much for tips and nice Easter! Greeting Stefan