Hello Together, I hope you can help me thanks to the friend with high cost. I have a Polo 1.4 85 HP, which jerks at idle speed, no matter if hot or cold. He has seen around 170000km on the clock and never seen E10. In VCDS time he exchanged a fluctuation of 620 – 760U/min^-1 What I have done -tooth change with water pump (control times several times check these fit) -cylinder head seal (head planned and pressed for tightness of valves) -hydroshumps (since some the spring was defective) -tooth tube pressure sensor (on assumption of jerking) -throat valve (since he had had in the warm start problem, was also learned) -with a cloth the injection valves tested the spraying valve have not yet been tested yet. -toe force loader replaced -toe force pressure is consistent with 4 and ventilated. -too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too tootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootoootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootoo
Author: 00c12f
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Cooling sealant correct application
Hello, I have heard that coolant sealants can help with leaks in the cooling system. I have the following questions: – Which product is the best from your point of view?- Before filling in: Keep the engine warm or not?- when filling in: Run the engine or off? Wet dry weather? Winter/summer? Turn on or off any functions?- After filling in: Don’t run the engine, run in idle or go hot? Heating on or off? What else is there to consider? What are your experiences?
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Claims settlement + impairment Incomprehension
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Assessment rate
Hello, I’m just in a negotiation with a potential employer. This meant that I would have 560 EUR (without VAT) of leasing amount free. Tank card is also provided. This is probably all about leasing with maintenance. Leasing provider is the German leasing and the fleet probably 50 vehicles large. I now find it extremely difficult to estimate what kind of vehicle would be in there at the moment? Need actually only 10tkm pa. But does the rate fit for a golf or rather an XC90 ? BLP at 40, 50 or 60k? Can someone estimate it?
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Also sign a purchase contract with Leasing?
Hello, just look through the documents of my father. He also signed a purchase contract for his leased vehicle for the same vehicle. I also found something on the net. Apparently this is the “entry model” or “order entry”. Does this model also have any disadvantages? Or is this the common practice in car leasing? Thank you
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Can lessors re-order an expert report, leading to higher costs?
Hello together, the following case. Leasing-KFZ was returned in April 23. On the day of the return and in my presence a return-certificate was prepared by an external company (GKK). Let us say exemplarily that the lower value was estimated at 1000€. In June 23 and in the course of the repairs another report was prepared by the same company, the lower value increased now to 1500€ (exemplary). The order for the new report came from the lessor and without my knowledge. Statement of the expert: “In the second order all the further damages were considered and taken up again. Since by laying out and polishing the tailgate was not possible sufficient repair for the tailgate, the repair method was changed to varnishes. When replacing the light metal rim at the front right, there was an increase in the costs, since in the first condition report no work performance for the renewal of the rim was taken into account. This is now included in the price.” } FRAGE: Is it lawful that the original report (on the day of the return) loses its validity and in the context of the repair “man’s greetings”?
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Uncertainty in leasing: initial registration and maintenance intervals ()
Dear Motor-Talk-Friends, I am relatively new in the area of leasing and still quite young, why my knowledge in this area is limited. I recently leased a Peugeot 3008, which has so far only 2700 kilometers on the Tacho. In the leasing contract was included a maintenance plan, which states that the first maintenance after 20,000 kilometers or after a year is due. I assumed that the 20,000 kilometers are decisive, because my vehicle is still far away. However, the car was already registered on 01.07.2022, but I took over it only on 09.05.2023. Now I have read in the maintenance plan that the former of the two values (20,000 kilometers or one year) should be taken into account, therefore one year. That makes me of course somewhat concerned, because my first maintenance date is only on 22.09.2023, which corresponds to a period of one year and two months. Has any of you experiences in this matter and can tell me whether I have to worry about it, since I am two months and a few days too late? My car has so far no warning for maintenance.
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Problems with auxiliary heating – repair possible?
Hello, I’ve had a problem with my heater since last winter. Every time you’re running, a background noise develops, comparable to a 50cc moped at the speed stop! It’s megalaut! So I went to the workshop and presented it. As I’m used to by Volvo, you don’t want to stay there for long with analyses, but to replace the whole heater! But the function is not affected in any way. Does anyone know the problem? Can’t I have the heater repaired somewhere else (vlt with the manufacturer of SH? Webasto or so)? I’m grateful for any help. When it gets colder again and the heater jumps on again I have to do something… Thank you. Jens Achja, it’s an S60 Bj2003.
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Volvo V70 P26 D5 (185PS) Automatic TF-80SC switches from 3th to 2nd gear
Hello dear Volvo driver, a friend of mine has a V70 P26 D5 with 6 steps automatic (TF-80-SC) model year 2006 currently 207,000km and has the following problem: – For example, if you want to turn inside with the car at a junction, go on the brake and stay on it and then the gearbox switches down the driving steps, you notice a (double) jerk through the driveline and the whole car. It feels like an invisible rear driver has driven into the rear. At normal, as well as at the heart speedy speed the automatic switches very unobtrusively and without jerking. – Resetting this jerking in the driveline in which you use the manual switching function and even from the third drive stage to the second switch. All other driving stages are high-turning and switch-down unobtrusively – My gear ratio is supposed to be very low – but the same thing is found for a second time when switching down here is only if you have experienced a lightly on the dialling of the gas pedal.
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Failed tuning V70 2.4T
Since I cold-formed my V70R a few weeks ago, I have now switched to a V70 2.4T. Used, almost fully equipped, and equipped by the previous owner with Heico Sprort suspension. And a performance increase was already in it. Originally also by Heico, but because of not falling converted to another (renomated) company, whose name is not yet revealed for the time being. Key data: 147 -> 176 kW 285 -> 340 Nm Downright strong in the suit, but somehow the splash was missing above all. Compared to the V70R (me later 215kW) anyway, but also the final speed was not really intoxicating. From 200km/h it became tough. What makes the clever farmer …. he puts the trecker on a roller test stand. And see there: Impressive 394 Nm at 3100 rpm, but also an evil performance and torque break from 4700 rpm. Top performance lean 165kW. Love Tuner should not look like that. The breakout is still more unpleasant!