Author: 00c12f

  • Rusty wheel boxes at the back of my Ford Escort

    Hello, I have a Ford Escort year 94. 90 HP. I wanted to ask I should have my wheel boxes welded back because of rust. Well, I wanted to ask now what it would cost about that. I know that there are all these wheel wheels. And I also know what they cost. I would only like to know what the welding works cost. And my longitudinal beams behind are heavily rusted, but I don’t think they’re enough. Should I do that?. For your answers many thanks in advance.

  • LWR installation,seat,mirror,speaker `97 escort combo

    Hello, have a little problem. Have a `96 and a `97 escort combo of the 96 is part dispenser with Ghia Ausst. and the 97 in operation but only flat Ausst. and also reimport. My question: To install the headlights with LWR in the 97s, What do I have to take into consideration no pre-running for this should build everything incl. cables from one to the other, what does this look like with relay, control unit, fuses ect.? 2. how hard is it to change the cable strand for electric driver’s seat because of 3. What do I have to change everything to convert Manuele mirrors to electrically heated mirrors. 4.Speaker cables, cables for 4 boxes are probably placed at the front of the wire harness, but he has no loudspeakers in the trunk can tell me many if the cables are already lying there before I un pointlessly expand the whole covering which does not go very fast and idiosyncratic. Maybe someone can tell me at the one or other Thank you very much.

  • Door lock!

    Hello everyone, I’m new here and I bought a Ford Escort but unfortunately I quickly realized that I’m getting problems with it. The first problem is my door lock on the driver’s side. Unfortunately I can’t close the car there anymore. But it works great. Can anyone tell me what I can do there? I’ve been looking for something on the Internet, the reperatur lock set does something if you buy it. Thanks already for nee answer Gruss Tiger P.S I still noticed today the plug that comes on the idle control valve under the lupe takes the is quite over. Can I buy such a thing in the shop the plug, or I have to replace the whole kabaelbaum. Is that at all possible and what would cost me the fun.

  • Determination of the winter tyre requirement

    Almost 80 per cent of German drivers consider a clearly regulated law on winter tyre duty to be useful. This was the result of a recent survey on the web portal motor-talk.de. However, there is disagreement as to whether a fixed period of time or the regional weather conditions should be a criterion for the application of winter tyre duty. Winter tyres on snowy roads: 78 per cent of the 5000 drivers who have participated in the motor-talk survey so far support an a (Photo: Continental) Berlin. Federal Minister of Transport Ramsauer wants to introduce a winter tyre obligation before the fall of winter. In the road traffic regulations it is intended to define concretely what winter road conditions are and what characteristics a winter tyre needs. What German drivers think of this is determined by the motor-talk.de car and motor-community. Of the 5000 drivers who have participated in the survey so far, 78 percent have a general obligation to wear winter tyres, but just under 21 percent prefer to be able to decide for themselves whether or not to raise winter tyres. Among the supporters of the obligation to wear winter tyres, however, the spirits differ from the question of how such a duty should be implemented in concrete terms. For example, half considers a fixed period of time – for example from October to Easter – to be useful, while the other half considers the respective weather conditions as a decisive criterion. In this context, many drivers refer to the regional differences in weather conditions. What exactly is a “suitable tyres”? There is also agreement on the issue of the need to define more clearly what is to be understood as “appropriate tyres”, and which tyres can be stamped “winter tyres”. Since not all tyres offered on the market are suitable for winter use, drivers demand a clear and protected designation as the basis The website motor-talk.de, which was launched in 2001, is the largest European car and motor community on the Internet with over 1.5 million registered users. Users exchange information on topics related to the car in forums and blogs with like-minded people. Your answers (of course mine) are heard.

  • Injection defect….. charging pressure sensor ?!

    Hello together….bin NEW !!! After almost 17 years Honda (low, wide and fast) I wanted to drive a comfortable car with family. With limited budget and thanks to my training to fine mech. with no two left hands I bought a 2004`Laguna 2 Grandtour with 2.2 dci engine from a dealer without guarantee for small money. The car is optically top and almost full !!! Well my problem : The car is ready to drive…..otherwise I would not have bought it. But I have the message… g defect. For this reason it is sluggish and at about 130 kmh it is closed. The car rusts while speeding until it has reached speed. I read out to the workshop for error (Renault). There said the computer charging pressure sensor defect. So new (Hella, Bosch) pure and NOTHING! When then only on the cables and plugs was pulled around I had to cancel because my budget as said is limited. Next workshop….comfortable more rest and time….other sensor from other supplier pr On the occasion of this, you can make the same light Oelleck on the turbocharger and let all relevant parts to the cycle of turbocharging and the wiring of the charging pressure sensor be tested. But there, too, you came across its limits and the My control unit was supposed to be the problem. So the control unit was removed and checked at specialized operation. Of course, both charging pressure sensors were sent along. There, work was done with the same control unit and k but not detect a defect. Now I have installed the device again but the car still doesn’t run. Has anyone heard of a similar problem or is so insider that he has another idea. I’m really desperate…..

  • Vel Satis 2.2 dCi switch injection nozzles/motor damage repair

    I got myself a wonderful S class from Renault to my Pajero V20. namely a Vel Satis 2.2 dCi switch. The car has 112,000 miles of dangers and Lief almost impeccable. Why almost it showed itself an injector damage, otherwise the engine was still like on the first day. well my mother wanted to drive the car absolutely once… ok, you can take my car to drive to Cologne after 650 km. I also told her especially because the injector damage started, please fa You slow not over 140 km/h that is not used to the car after all the last 200,000 km in England with shift limitation probably never faster than 130 dangers. What must she do 200 km/h at Karlsuhe downhill Brettern. . . . . . . . . . result behind Karlsruhe engine damage. Answer my mother, the Lief nevertheless so beautiful and he should be driven free times…… Well everyfals I have then disassembled the engine, result the injector of the 3rd cylinder has zuvie l Diesel EIn injected which means that the cylinder has overheated and the piston has more or less melted. According to nice, otherwise as far as everything looks healing, cylinder head can be repaired two valves were more or less milled through, a valve seat has been renewed, the cylinder has been honed, a set of nueue conduits bearing shells, and the smaller stuff like seals oils water and and and… after a few months that was I had built everything together again two weeks ago, and the First start made somewhat hesitant he came then. I then let him run warm in the stand. the next day again warm run. Then first driver search, almost hardly any power, strong black smoke which after about 15 km was almost gone, gradually came then also more and more power. Now after 70 km the motor has its normal power again, now I come to the actual point: I hear a clacker which sounds similar but different than before the engine damage. however, all 4 Injectors Checked (who has done the damage has been repaired) the other three have been judged by the Bosch service as fine. now I’m a bit perplexed what this could be? villeicht do you have an idea?

  • Assistance in the purchase of 260 SE

    Good morning dear forum! I’m just about to introduce myself My name is Björn, I’m 19 years old and I’m from the beautiful cathedral city. I’ve already had my passion for the star from the diaper age into the cradle, and it has always not let me go. I’m currently driving a 96′ E-Class E200 without rust! Now I’m looking for something older for everyday driving but also care. Now I’ve come across an S-Class 260SE of the 1987 year with incredibly few kilometers, say and write 38,500KM it is possible to upgrade it áuf Euro 2? And… since I am e-class irradiated, what would I have to consider when buying, or, are there these cracks like in the E-class? I am looking forward to an exchange of experiences now all before a nice day! Greetings from Cologne! Björn

  • Door loudspeaker front VW-Golf IV

    Hello guys, I’m new here. I just bought a VW Golf IV, 1.4, year 10.2001 and would like to exchange the speakers at the front. Today was in the media market, where the system (a total of 4 boxes for both doors) is offered for 111,-€. In my opinion a good price. The seller thinks that the loudspeakers make really “Rummmsssss”. I want to make it clear that I want to hear the “right” sound, so everything clear and even at higher volumes without restrictions. the installation of the front speakers in front, no cables and loudspeakers are installed at the rear; this work has to wait. I would like to give you the technical data of the speakers and ask for your opinion. Should I buy the parts????? Focal 165 A1 technical data : – Maximum load capacity: 120 W – Nominal load capacity: 60 W – Efficiency: 92 dB (2.83 V/1 m) – Frequency response: 60 Hz?20 kHz – Crossover: 12 dB/Octave – Medium low-range driver with 165 mm diameter – Installation depth 66 mm – TN44 tweeter with aluminium inverscalotte Thanks Peter

  • Clarion 778 vs. Eclipse 8445

    Well now after the Car&Sound there is a question that had not asked itself before. For me it was clear that the new Clarion will be my new radio 350€ and all frills, so you can take off in the design. Well until I came to the Eclipse stand, well, they didn’t show much interest in the customer at first, you get a few small gifts in your hand and should get away as quickly as possible… But then I was sent to a more competent consultant. I was all sent again I already know the radio in the Ami version from the Hansi Naja in the end he added, the EIA has been lowered from 599€ to 399€ 50€ to the Clarion because you can think about it again… So now to the criteria: Clarion: + USB port Then comes the minus list: switch “Slide touch” the big over the display is a bit stupidly done, I was already advised (“In middle position you can lift it up and blow out the dust with compressed air then”, further am I’m so convinced of the springs… And then the control panel shook a bit and also looked quite “cheap”, good with the wobble, that grips a lot of people, but I’m also someone who always loses the control panel (even in their own courtyard entrance), so also relatively high load. Eclipse: A bit more beautiful design, better feeling when operating, built more solidly. Has no USB, but 8V pre-outs. As said difficult decision, but right now I think the 50€ are on all the fals le ne good investment. What do you think? Edit: The Equilizer also has some tapes in the Eclipse more…

  • CD 70 Navi Opel Sound improve

    Hi, I have a question for the hifi freaks among you: I’ll let the doors shut down because I often hear the shuffling of the doors: Let’s say that the system can handle more than the doors. That’s half the deal. The front speakers are top, absolute premium. That’s all. However, the opposite is true, the cheapest scrap where goes. In the back also the 2 small loudspeakers I think tweeters are called the. So front top shit behind. That’s why fli now my question: You have 4 possibilities to do what at the system: 1x 2x top where usually tweeters are in and 1x 2x where normal boxes are in. What would you do if money doesn’t matter, here? Subwoofer, bass box, power amp? Does that fit, can you do what? Or if that doesn’t work, which boxes? So again in short form: You can change 4 things, but only in these 4 places, what you do and how much it costs doesn’t matter. Question understood? Thanks and now I’m looking forward to the answers, the best I hand over to my Hifi dealer, he will make the upgrade!