MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Track broadening – wheel nut too long or too wide

    Hello, today I wanted to install a set of track plates from Eibach (16 mm per side, 32 mm per axle), the variant for screwing with separate wheel nuts. Rims are standard. However, the mounting now fails due to the supplied Eibach wheel nuts M12x1.5×18.5 in SW17 KG60°, because these look too far out or are too wide with SW 17 or the casting pockets of the OEM rims are too narrow. I think the too narrow casting bags are decisive. On the side of the nut to the edge of the bag, so that the rim can not fit plan. How can I get this solved now? The TÜV report says for mounting: M12x1.5 with minimum 6.5 revolutions are to be used. No word about the length/height of the wheel nuts. Could I simply use M12x1.5×16.5 in SW17? Would now be 2 mm flatter, but there would be only H&R. Also here there would be flatter up to M12x1.5×15. Or is there no longer the strength due to missing thread length? https://www.rad screwen-shop.de/…/M12x15 20 mm Track widening will not fit without bodywork and I don’t want to file on the supplied wheel nuts or rim.

  • Principal question on direction-of-run tyres

    Good day in the forum! I see on many vehicles direction-bound tires and especially on motorcycles and mopeds, of course also on cars and often they are mounted so that although the direction-of-run arrow on the tire in the direction of rotation of the wheel during forward travel is correct, the profile would be wrongly mounted from the mechanical logic (especially on motorcycle front wheels). If you take the example picture below, I stand in front of the vehicle and the vehicle rolls towards me, the direction of running st The profile works so optimally for the drivage – during the braking process it is exactly the opposite, because the profile should actually stand the other way around in order to derive the water e.g. on wet road. But with a correctly mounted wheel the profile pulls the water in the middle of the tire during an extreme braking process and promotes the aquaplaning risk. Even worse, for example, it is on a non-driven rear axle, which rolls only during normal driving operation and during the It pulls the water into the profile instead of rejecting the water – so from the mechanics such tires should be mounted on the “non-powered wheels” in reverse?? I hope that the pictures will be uploaded.

  • Clio 1,2 Bj 92 Don’t jump to hear a clack

    Hello need to penetrate HELP bought me a Renault Clio 1,2 B.j 92 a few days ago through the cold he went a little hard to think about I wanted to at least today mitta to turn it on and it only took a slap from the engine compartment from the black relay box on the driver side. Can you fix it yourself ??? need the car again on Monday and need any replacement parts or can you bridge it to not ??? is really important THANK YOU in the forraus Raisor150785

  • Battery completely empty – What’s wrong with the car?

    Hello everyone, my Clio (1.4 from 2001) does not jump any more after he has been standing for 3.5 weeks. Over Christmas he had already been standing for 3 weeks. In the unusually two weeks in between he started and drove without any problems. When turning the Zuendschluessel nothing does anymore (even no “click” and the bridge with a functional battery did not work yesterday either (not the slightest noise). Can a battery be so empty that the car auc Is it possible to charge the battery overnight with a charger? (Can I easily expand the battery? And if so, how?) Or do I just have to buy a new one directly? Can it be on the battery alone at all, since the car was standing for so long in a row? It was standing and standing in South Africa, where summer is now – so it is not in winter. Or does this point to another car? Because I bought the car used, I’m not sure, but I think that the battery is now almost 2 – 3 years old. Can I just leave the car just like it is until I can care about it? (run on crucks at the moment…) Or is it bad for the car and/or the engine to leave it standing even longer? Thank you for any answer, Anne.

  • Motor-total damage due to water in the oil

    An engine-total damage that I absolutely can’t explain, brought me to this forum, hoping to find answers and help here.. I drive, or better drove, a Clio 1.2 16 Dynamique EZ 03/2005 with an annual mileage of 8000 km., current speedometer 49100 km. The car was regularly maintained, last in June last year (with oil change) and the TÜV was issued again at the beginning of December 2009 without defects. So far the car drove without problems or Schwi Last Sunday the oil pressure indicator lit up without any apparent reason. A check of the oil level revealed nothing bad, enough oil was in it. Nevertheless, I left the car standing and had it to be towed to the Renault workshop. The check revealed that the water in the oil is pre-composed. And it was quite a lot, almost a third should have been. It should be condensation water???? How can something be like that??? The lubrication was no longer available, it was known. I’m a technical layman and I can’t explain to myself that 7 months after the last maintenance, with oil changes, there should be so much water in the oil cycle that it caused this engine damage. Has there ever been a problem with Renault, or can anyone explain this mystery to me? Thank you!

  • What needs to be maintained regularly?

    I have a Clio 3, bj 2007. He has already run quite a lot, to the 60,000. What do I have to change regularly, fill up etc, so that he stays in top shot? So far I pour from time to time oil, once it has been completely changed and refueled I can well *laugh* Then also immediately the next question: Which oil should I tip in best? I now have such a cheap product, 5 W 40 . I hope on many Antowrten and the he r me again as great as last time help 😉 Would be nice if you answered quite extensively, so that the poor car really doesn’t collapse under me, because I forget something 😉

  • Clio 1.2 16 V high fuel consumption

    Hello, I’ve been driving Clio 1.2 16V 75 hp since just under a year. 2001 88000km I found that I have a very high fuel consumption After my research I have a 50 liter tank, and if I drive normally I get about 600 km far, that’s about 12 liters to 100 km and that for a small car driving another Opel with a 2.0 16V I need only about 8 liters Is the fuel consumption normal with the French, or is there a problem???

  • Oil change at the Renault Clio after 1 year, at the Dacia Sandero only after 2 years required……

    What irritates me at the moment is the fact that a much shorter oil exchange interval is required for the Renault Clio than for the Dacia Sandero: Renault Clio: 1 year or 15000 km Dacia Sandero: 2 years or 30000 km This looks like a money tailoring for me in the case of the Renault Clio, because the Dacia Sandero is equipped with the same engine as in the Renault Clio. In any case, you have to comply with the oil exchange intervals in order not to lose the factory guarantee, that Renault knows after all What do you think about it? Merry Christmas and Greetings, Roland

  • Grip loss despite 6 mm profile

    Hi there, I have a short question. I have a 340i M-pack 19, but I’m not a racing driver 😉 My summer tires Bridgestone S001 Runflat have since this year ( tires are from the beginning of 2017) hardly grip (profil still close to 6mm). If I latch on at about 80 km/h times the vehicle goes into the control and points to the wheels turn off at the rear. When wet it is even worse. Last year I did not have these problems. The air pressure is ok. I drive 2.3 front e and 2.4 at the rear. Please no discussion about the air pressure. I am in the tire development and know a little about BMW tires, at least as far as the air pressure is concerned. I am also not one of the drivers who beat themselves 3 bar because of the better roll resistance, or the car drives with less pressure. I was there as a test driver a 3er with runflat without air in the tire the handling course, since none of us would have followed, no matter from 2 , 2.5 or 3 bar 🙂 That only marginally. Does anyone know this problem with the grip loss?

  • Narrowly failed 255/30 19 on 9J rim

    Servus! Sorry, if I have missed something in the SuFu! Unfortunately, I have only come across contributions that are no longer up-to-date or not corresponding to my criteria. And I am looking for a narrow tire for a 9J x 19 rim with the dimensions 255/30 19. I have already asked Hankook, Falken and Dunlop, but only on the part of falcons get an answer. But if the tires need as soon as possible :/ In the eye I have the following tyres: Falken Azensis FK510 ( According to Falken he has a running surface of 235 and a width of 260) Hankook Ventus S1 EVO 2 (no answer yet) Hankook Ventus V12 EVO 2 (according to Hankook apparently a running surface of 229 and a width of 276 (?)) Dunlop Sport Maxx (I read that the current tires are wide) Is one of you better? Do you need a narrower one? Is there any better choice?