MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Front axle – steering with slow drive, the SL 129 fluctuates back and forth…

    Again a new construction site: The carrying joints seem to have game or the ball heads are knocked out, I dare not drive more faster than 30. Steering wheel is waiting funny ahead … I am slowly tired of the cart. For every tip I am grateful

  • Flattering while braking – need advice.

    Hi guys, I need your help with my brakes. I’m pretty close to the end with my Latin. Short history. I’ve been having a problem with braking from higher speeds for a long time now, that the steering wheel flutters. With slow braking I have the feeling that it slows down quite slightly. So -brams-brams weak-brams-brams weak … etc. You will already know what I mean. So far so good, no drama I think. Order for front new discs and After a visual inspection, however, I had to find out that the front coverings still look pretty good, whereas the rear coverings look quite small. I attached pictures. The rear panes and coverings were made just under 50,000km ago. I never think the front one. That’s what I’m so surprised about. The front coverings look really good for the fact that they already have 140,000 km on the hump. This is the actual question: According to Skandix, I have a brake diameter of 336mm in the front. Unfortunately, I did not find any indication of the diameter on the caliper. Last Mögl. would be measured of course. If I wanted to get a set of ATE brakes and blocks in the bay, unfortunately I find only brakes with the diameter 300mm there. Does this matter which one I take? Specifically it is this:Set 1 or the one hereSet 2 What ha I have rims in winter 17 and in summer 18 inches. Would be great if you would take the time to help with short, since I would like to order the brakes on my own and have them installed by a free familiar. I would of course also be grateful about alternative orderlinks. PS: Auto is a S60II D3 GT 2011 THANK YOU!

  • Oil trap housing old

    Hello, I just had an offer for the complete set of oil trap and accessories made. There is the following remark: “Attention: It may be that your car still has the old oil trap housing no longer available. in this case the tap sensors have to be changed. For this there is a repair kit from Volvo, however it costs 148,00 EUR!” My question: how do I recognize whether an old or new oil trap housing is installed?

  • Presentation of my V70 2.4T LPG

    Hello friends of the V70 forum, As you know, I was with TERWI in a lively exchange regarding a new mobile kit. I do not want to withhold my new toy and wish you a lot of fun while watching the pictures The car cost: 360€ Prins gas system: 1900€ incl. turbo and tank plug in the tank cover (yes, from a certified gas builder who has already converted many V models!!!) I did a few things, e.g. the lamp from the gear indicator was defective, the rubber Ing from the oil cover was brittle and therefore leaking, a bit of silicone spray here and there to make things happen again. New radio remote control purchased, unfortunately not yet functional. New fixing eyes are ordered to get the trunk cover back firmly, cathedral bearings are ordered back, because it is a bit polishy. For the age and the KM performance however everything in all a very well maintained car (Ne, TERWI?), which hopefully still gives me long joy. Jacky

  • Telephone XC 90

    good day dear volvofriends, I have been the owner of an xc 90 d 5 premium since March 04. I can’t complain about anything. however, the phone makes me worry about big. the software störtz regularly off. the phone won’t be able to turn on anymore. my dealer has already made two attempts to repair the software update. but without success. after a few days the phone was broken again. I’m very desperate. maybe you have similar experiences. ngen made and can give tips to fix. many thanks to alexander

  • Tractor shake in idle mode

    The box is actually a tractor in idle … Quotation: @V70Bruno wrote on 5 February 2018 at 12:05:06: Safe ? That seems kind of illogical to me The bearings dampen with low pressure depending on the speed and are filled with fluid. If the low pressure holds, the bearing is tight and does what it should – dampen. The dome strut bearings + upper engine bearing (at that time noticeable improvement) + lower engine bearing (torque support) are also changed. e). In addition, there are the sockets in the auxiliary frame … but the vibrations are too strong for that. The behaviour remains mysterious immediately after the start. Directly after the cold start almost zero power, after 30 meters driving then suddenly the normal power starts.

  • Mounting of rear silencer

    Moin, my friend has noticed during the service that the last holder for the rear silencer is rusted. You can’t replace it and it has to be a completely new rear silencer. Is there really no way? Many greetings and thanks for your help. XC70 D5 AWD EZ 01/2007

  • Smell of the ventilation CEM failure

    Hello, unfortunately I did not find anything suitable in the search, so I write to you my problem. Volvo V70 D5 MY2004 vehicle started, suddenly strong smell of rotten electronics, total failure From CEM (I had already driven at great heat), vehicle. Home the fuse 24, power supply relay Cem burned through. New in, directly through again. Then a bigger one tried, since that runs again, even after the exchange on the correct 10A fuse. Now have i but when the ventilation is switched on I ordered and installed the fan control, which is sitting in the fan motor, because I didn’t think of anything else that is installed in the airflow. Unfortunately I didn’t find anything rotten there, also the control and also the fan motor only smelled very lightly. My question is now, what kind of component can be buried there? I haven’t found anything that doesn’t work yet, even Vida doesn’t put a Fe Somehow I’m waiting for the CEM to fail again. Thank you for your efforts. Greetings, Volker

  • Xc90 strong vibrations

    Moin moin, I’m new here since today. I have a problem with my XC90, when I accelerated, my XC90 started shaking right from 80km/h. It’s not a vibration, it’s a real shaking. When I walk off the gas, the shaking is there, as soon as I keep the speed constant, it doesn’t shake anymore. Now I’ve already changed the torque support, the lower right motor bearing, the upper motor bearing and the advanced hydraulic motor bearing, now the Schüt has changed. teln moves that means it starts now at 60km/h and stops at 80km/h pretty much. The camps of the Domstrebe are also changed. I already ordered the camp at the bottom back, but should probably be modest to change I heard. Has had this here already before. Look forward to some information. MfG Henning

  • Ignition lock mechanically broken – replacement lock from e.g. eBay?

    Dear people I got ice cold today: There was never any “hooking” while turning the keys of my XC90 MJ06. Today I went to work, wanted to finish at the customer’s appointment and turning the key at position 1. In the forum looked for and tried various things. Seems to be actually a mechanical problem in the cylinder of the ignition lock, second key, wobble around, gentle violence while turning it did not. Question: What makes more sense (and I live in the country and far away from the next friend?) A: Order a new ignition lock at the friendly one? –> Does the immobiliser have to be re-learned from the workshop? B: Order used items, such as from here (and would the old transponder be sufficient?): https://www.ebay.de/itm/224777516420?… Is the exchange possible through a medium gifted screwdriver? Thank you for your feedback!