Author: 00c12f

Moin, how about opening a small thread here for the people without VADIS etc. to ask for part numbers? I have the first question. I am looking for the part number for the lower seal, O-ring on the injection nozzles, with me the seals are brown. I can’t find the seal at skandix and if I order at the friendly, I would like to have the part number to make sure that I get the right one.

Hello! I’m a proud owner of a 92′ 850. Unfortunately I already have problems, most of them relatively no matter, but my ABS doesn’t work anymore. When I start it, the ABS light goes off, the brake pedal makes a click. Also stays out until I brake strongly for the first time. It feels like it’s a little bit clean, but then it doesn’t do anything and the lamp lights up. I’ve already measured the sensors. One at 950, all other at 1000-1100 Ohm. The diagnostics LED (on 3 A) just lights up, the button doesn’t do anything, I don’t come any further. I’ve read that the control unit should be soldered properly, too, now doesn’t know any more…. I hope you can help here.

Hello, I’m new here and I would like to introduce myself briefly, my name is Christoph is 21 years old and from Austria.. I bought a Volvo 850 T5 last year was quite happy with the vehicle until after about 8000km one of the Pleullager failed, well then I put the engine and the turbo again and sealed off.. At the beginning everything was good and after about 3000km I wanted to try the turbo and quickly noticed that he did not build a charging pressure, then made the py-pass membrane new and washed out all the underpressure lines and the charging pressure control valve with cold reamer, the first 100km was all perfekt until then short from 4500 rpm a whistle was heard and the engine stuttered, ignition shut out immediately from the there is all new up to ignition cable and ignition module, error code was also negative. My thought out are the charging pressure hoses could cause the problem..

Hi there, now with the replacement of my defective engine I have problems with the running culture. In order to contain all contingencies immediately. With the replacement of the engine at the same time, the alternator, timing belts, water pump, clutch incl. 2-mass swing wheel, 3 of 5 ignition coils and the air mass meter like all spark plugs ( original Volvo for turbo engine ) were replaced. Both lamda probes were also replaced. Now to the final end, the elk runs like a sack of nuts. At constant speeds ( 1800 – 2000 rpm ) it jerks with soot output on the exhaust. But the pull-through force is there, with slight jerks in between connected, the fuel consumption is also significantly increased. In the state it can not hold the 900U/min and falls to 400-500 rpm, with ignition dropouts and again Rußausflussung on the exhaust.

Hello Mens , I am in despair … After now 3 forum entries, attention to all your tips and today’s change of the right joint shaft and again new brake discs ala ATE … are, how can it be different, my vibrations still there! AAAAAAahhhhhhhhhh ….. 🙁 … from about 110 km/h I have very unpleasant permanent vibrations in the steering wheel which pull up to 160 km/h … then reigns reasonably calm. Very untypical therefore for rims and tires, whereby the tires are 2 months young and the rims run completely clean (OZ 1000 miglia) with 205/55 R17 …. Here is a small set up of parts from this year: cross handlebars l+r axial joints l+r joint shafts l+r tyres front l+r brakes front brake complete shock absorbers front axle measurement coupling rods wheel bearings front l+r tyres forward So … and now you … I just don’t know any more. Thanks for your help.