Author: 00c12f

Hello all, in spring my Volvo V70/III (T5 – 245PS front drive) gets its new 18-wheels, which I still lack the matching shoes (235/40R18). 🙂 What would be your recommendations of the currently available summer tire models? The tyres should be at least relatively comfortable and quiet considering the low cross-section, but also a bit sporty. Good grip and safe driving behavior are of course also important. In the past I already had good experience with the GY Eagle F1 Assym 2 made on another vehicle, so I would like to tend to the newer Eagle F1 Assym. 3. Would this be recommended for my vehicle and my requirements? Best regards, Felix

Now think about the summer, and since I don’t want to spend too much on a decent tire, I’ve looked at these 3 in size 175/65 R15. All from Far East (Korea/Japan), all about equally cheap (about 38 euros) and all with different tests (sometimes “good” on wet, some “-” on wet).

Hello, I’m driving a station wagon and I’m just buying new winter tyres. For some reasons, the otherwise exactly same premium tyre is 12 Euro / piece cheaper with my dealer if you take it in 91T. Otherwise I buy 88T. Do I have any disadvantages if I save the money and buy the 91?

Hello together, after spending days interpreting ABE text and internet forums (which are partly very repeatable), I would like to throw my question here. I bought new complete wheels for my Mazda6. Michelin 235/45 Y R18 on RC design RC22 rims (8×18 LK:5/114.3 ET:48) This tyre size is not registered in the vehicle license, but in the ABE of the rims is only the following (relevant) point: A02 which (shortened) says: … g (in the vehicle papers) is not required if the ABE of the special wheel contains an exemption from the obligation to correct the vehicle papers.I have problems with the interpretation of this paragraph. A01 is not necessary for the rim according to ABE on my car and the tyre dimensions are explicitly mentioned in the ABE, does the text in A02 mean that I do not have to remove the wheels and/or register them? If it helps in the answer, here the link to the report, my car is in the following column: Mazda 6 GJ, GH e1*2007/46*1001*.. e1*2001/116* 0448*14-.. – from model 2013 PS: Sorry about the scope of the question, but I wanted to provide all relevant information

Hello all, I bought new tires for the second time at Ebay now, because the price is just better there (geez is horny) and there were no problems the last time. Now I bought Dunlops again and am not sure if these are not fakes or anything. First of all this should be from 03.2019 but on the career I see six places where the career comes together as a part. The best way to look at the pictures is to understand what I mean. Don’t know that so and I can’t quite imagine that the tires are made in this way. Are there experts here who can judge this better? Don’t want to have a tyre pitcher on the AB or anywhere else because I wanted to save… The reviews from the Ebay seller were also over 99.5% and from DE. Does a lot of tires trade What do you think?

Hello, I drive a Tiguan II and would like to buy larger rims. I have chosen the MAM A1 and combination with 245/45R19. According to ABE I have to attach covers on the exhaust flights and after edition A01 will be submitted to the TÜV. Now I have converted my vehicle to the R-Line conformation and have the corresponding fender cover. The R-Line, for example, does not have to be a TÜV acceptance. How does this work in my case? I drive to the TÜV, meet the requirements of n the conditions by the conversion and get a TÜV confirmation? Or has this already been done by the conversion? With the ABE to the conditions and many thanks for helpful hints.