In 2005/06, some well-known people will be fighting for European market shares in the 50,000 Euro SUV segment – what does that mean for the XC90 or what Volvo has to do to keep it on the success wave ? Here’s a selection of the most important: – Mercedes new M-Class (and R- and G-Class) – brand new Range Rover Sport – new BMW X5 models – brand new Audi Q7 – Lexus RX400 with hybrid drive – Cadillac with Escalante – etc. My opinion could Volvo remain successful if… – reasonable pricing policy – early delivery of RPF and stronger diesel – little recall actions (quality image even higher) – delivery of the new Haldex and other V8 Schmankerl also for the other models – variable option policy for indoors, outdoor and technology, e.g. higher quality leather equipment, air suspension, cornering light, more badway technology etc. – delivery of all things the others have to offer e.c. ro serially or at least as an option to have to compare to OC’s successors.
Author: 00c12f
-
Has anyone had experience with D5 at high mileage?
Hello, so that we understand ourselves correctly, I don’t mean statements like in the threads of premium manufacturers a la “The XYZ has no defects, I already have 12,000km on it and no problems!!!!!” I would be interested if already one with the D5 has done more than, say, 150Tkm and what his/her experiences about the engine are. Hidden costs, special features, equal/decreasing power/consumption, repairs etc. The engine is finally new and there are no experiences yet. The prices at mobile.de are at any rate very high. Around 18T for a D5 with 150-180Tkm. =8-o Rapace
-
Wet slices in moose
Hej together, our 1995’s 850-second wheel is for a few days in the rain an evil wet biotope, on all the windows? Great deal with the windshield and the side windows in front. But even in the rear, the glazing is permanently humid. From the ventilation, comes also on maximum set very little airflow and the ventilation that comes there is damp warm. I can not wipe as fast as directly again everything is strongly fogged. Only a narrow strip, about the first 5-10 centimetres of the windshield above the ventilation grid, remains dry. It is not wet, it is wet and yes, it smells even when I use the ventilation instead. Driving in the rain is so impossible, except that all windows are completely open. What else is striking is that in frost above the dashboard parts of the windshield is light and from the inside lightly iced. And when the ventilation is busy, “twishing” something. Is that the engine/the wave from the indoor fan is completely open?
-
Problems with mounting the RS bumper
Hello together,(SORRY FOR THE LONG TEXT) I bought an RS bumper, it’s not from Dietrich (unfortunately) or Mattig or something like that. Now I tried if it fits (should you do it before painting). But it doesn’t fit properly, the hole in the middle is missing the two exteriors are there, but it doesn’t fit exactly (a milimeter difference). But it’s not that bad! The sides are bad! They are standing off (driver side 2-3 cm) and I don’t know how to use the intended fittings. I don’t even get to the places where the original bumper was on it.I don’t know any more! Thanks already for your help!
-
BMD engine – which cyl. head repair device?
Hello in the forum! The problem with burnt out exhaust valves at the cylinder heads on the BMD – engine are already known – my question: What kind of repair is the most reasonable? Swap head of VW – is the high price justified, is this type of repair the best or does the repair from the engine repairer also last so long? – is there experience here? What is better with the swap head of VW than with one that the engine repairer has repaired? When the exhaust valves are burned through and the head is overhauled, install new cat of VW or Skoda or third-party? Is it safe the cat that causes the burning of the exhaust valves or burn the valves also with a new cat? Or is it the easiest for 500,-€ to buy an engine from the scrapper? many thanks to the specialists.
-
2013 1.6 TDI BMT jerks/stutters at half-gas, only in third gear.
Dear Forum, I’m driving a 2013 Jetta, 1.6 TDI BMT with just under 170,000km and have been having a somewhat unpleasant problem for some time now. Service and pickerl testing have only recently been done at VW, no defects found during the inspection. Only in the third gear, in the half-gas, at 40 – 45 km/h and about 1500 RPM the engine starts to jerk or stutter noticeably. It is a very strong jerking and it becomes, if you keep the half-gas, always stronger, until the whole vehicle practically hops away. EDIT: I should add that the jerking stops when the gas pedal or full-gas release stops immediately! I was already twice at VW because of this problem. You exchanged the AGR cooler the first time and at the second time two injection nozzles. The problem persists and tomorrow I drive for the third time to the workshop to denounce this problem. But before I do that, I thought that I could ask for answers here.
-
Frozen headlight washing system
Dear people, what happens if the “high pressure washing system of the headlights” (with Dual-Xenon) is frozen and it would have to switch on when operating the windscreen washing system with it? I find neither in the forum nor in the publications of Volvo (operation manual, V50-Prospekt, Volvo-Homepage, ..) any indication of this. Even nothing under keywords or headings to winter or similar. My concern: Can this “sliplight cleaning system” not take damage because it has to drive up from the bumpers. This is responsible for some mechanical mechanism that would have to work against when freezing in vain. And if the mechanism doesn’t go up: spray the nozzles then still (only in the bumpers)? (Oh yes, only by the way: Does the rumors agree that when the rear disc and rear mirror heating is switched on, the spray nozzles on the engine hood – and then perhaps also the headlight cleaning system – will be heated with it? Probably no, otherwise it would have been possible to read it somewhere. But it wouldn’t be bad, but it’s not bad, it’s not bad, ’50’?
-
Aid for rescue/joint slaughter of 850 Hanover
I am in a dilemma! My 855 MJ95 295Tkm urgently needs some new parts to stay on the star. Rear axle rubber bearings on both sides and KAT are the worst candidates. Small stuff will still be found What has prevented me from having it done so far (I lack the space) is the clear smell of benzin (unexplained) after starting and the increased oil consumption (clearly over 1l/1000km). The near Volvo screwdriver taps on worn piston rings in this regard. The engine is dry outside. So – is obtained rather than rotted. I am therefore willing to invest beyond the purely rational economic limit and have the desire to screw itself. What would be officially due for this, however, is too much for me. Then rather than whole or in parts to “needy” – where we would be again at the place problem/storage problem. Question – does anyone want to take time and place with me one of the above options? Tips, parts and donations are also welcome.
-
“ABS” – and “Tracks-off” people come back again and again
Greetings to the moose community. Who of you knows advice for the following case: After starting the engine, the ABS and tracks-off lights stay on again and again in recent times. Sometimes they go out after 2 minutes, sometimes they light up 30 minutes until they go out and again another time they go out like all the other warning lights directly after starting. That they went out after starting the engine and I did not start during the ride yet. Is there perhaps some sensor that is shortly before the departure? Greetings to all Jan
-
850 doesn’t start anymore…
Hi people, have the following problem: The 850 from a friend no longer starts (not WFS) and you can’t say no… Before I look for a wolf I just wanted to listen to you. First of all: I don’t have a chance to query the fault memory and would like to drag the car to the dealer of my (non)trust… Problem expresses itself like this: No spark (also not directly to terminal 4 of the ignition coil), injection valves have power supply, but are not switched against mass and thus do not inject. Therefore I think that a def. crankshaft encoder is obvious, isn’t it? Resistance value is 293 Ohm, however the AC voltage signal at starter speed is only 0.25V (had only a multimeter to measure; hope that was not too sluggish). What do you think about this?