Have you been thinking about getting me one of the pre-Facelift C30, a T5 should be, automatic duty (because of “home peace”). What do you think of the following: http://tinyurl.com/62bdofy If a Volvo employee’s leasing back-runner is already standing at the dealer’s office for a long time and during the test drive the battery symbol lit up, plus brakes squeaking easily (possibly because of longer service life on the farm?). What would be fixed by that, he thinks… Price is still a bit high for me (CH ratios *hüstel*) – Although it has little KM, but just, the facelift is outside and it has been standing on the square for almost a year. Opinions on this (equipment, points to which one should pay attention, especially C30 and T5)? And please no discussion about GT pro/contra
Author: 00c12f
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Old and new tyres on one axis – problems?
Even in order to avoid the slightly humiliating hint “Gucke du Sufu!”, I looked around here and on the whole web. But also the local thread to Abrollradius/Mittedifferential did not really help me. What is it about? I drove into the left rear tyres (V6 TDI) a nail or something. One sees the thing on the tread silvery shine. The tire loses within 24 hours 1,9 bar. The tread depth of the tires is between 4 and 5 mm. A new tire has, as far as I know, 7 mm. This means that the wheel radius on the left and right is different if I only renew to the left. Whether this means something, and if so what, one was not quite in agreement at the time in the above-mentioned thread. Is there any further findings by now?
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Handbrake problems
Hi, was this weekend in the workshop to have my brakes renewed. I also had the car checked out. At the check you have (allegedly – I didn’t notice anything about this before) then noticed that the hand brake does not work synchronously. Despite an exchange of the disc and the block only the hand brake is asynchronous and the normal brake does not work. I have to say that my V40 2.0 has four discs and thus also brakes at the rear. The rear brake does not work perfectly only the hand brake. Now the workshop has informed me that the brake cylinders have to leave the back. Is that right? I don’t understand that he brakes correctly with the foot brake and the hand brake does not. Can anyone help me here? Greeting Ma28
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jerks at speeding up and loses performance..
Hello everyone, have bought our v40 a 1/2 year ago and swubs after the flow of the guarantee start the problems. have a v40 bj 2001 1.9 with a gdi engine. when I was on the road the last time and accelerated the car began to stutter at approx. 160 kmh and had no more power. when I went off the gas and then slightly accelerated it went again. the next day everything was ok again at the first ride. at the second but the bowl is drunk. after that I could drive again without any problems. in the evening then on the starting again the same. this time already at 120 kmh. what can that be? and can someone recommend me a reliable (volvo) workshop in the room HU/OF/FFM? greet thomas
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Central locking system
still a problem the other day when it was really cold again and I wanted to de-icing my elk he locked himself up. so from the front.I wanted to free my car from the ice and drive home – I started into the car, engine, out -tuer to and with the scratching started, then all windows were free I wanted to go back into the car but that was locked in the car (motor on, light on).Then after a long try and help from my best friend (DER BUB, best thanks again) came back in again. at home I tried out and see if you open the car with radio remote control,tuer closes, some time does not do anything, the car shuts itself in. of my knowledge it is normal that the car shuts out again, if you open it with radio remote control again and in a certain time I don’t open it, but I did not get in the car itself. now I know it is normal, that the car is closed again best if you open it up again and in a certain time I don’t know that it works.
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Assistance systems in 2024 compared to competition
What’s more, I’m going to be very happy with a Volvo S90 MJ 2018: On the one hand, I’m very happy with the car, but on the other hand, there are already thoughts on PIH’s Behavior, but I’m going to be very happy with it. What’s more, I’m going to be very happy with it. What’s more, I’m going to be very happy with it? What’s more, I’m going to be happy with it? What’s more, I’m going to be very happy with it? What’s more, I’m going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it? What’s going to be happy with it?
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Which car color for my G
Dear Motor-Talk municipality, I have not been in the forum for a long time now. Now as proud owner of a G 300GE from 1990 I can introduce myself right here. I am very pleased to have the car now. For me this was not cheap. The car is light grey and in many places has formed on the paint top floor rust. I would therefore like to paint the car completely. In the appendix a photo of the car is listed. As paint is planned a dark gray. The front bully bumper I would dismantle and sell. I have added a photo of the desired color to you. Maybe you can help me and tell me which RAL color this is. I would like to take it separately and paint the car abroad afterwards.Also I would like to know how much color I need? I have at the bottom everywhere flight rust(not much). I would like to have this completely sanded away also abroad and then treat it with Fertan. After the Fertan I would like to place a corrosion protection on it, which does not fall with the wash road -> Do you have any recommendations for me?
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Brake pedal – changed properties – are there experiences?
My XC 90 T8 makes me happy with this error message since the weekend. The brake is easier at the beginning of the brake pedal path and then beats even harder. Brakes are possible without any problems. The hybrid mode is also disturbed: when the burner runs the first time it runs out immediately when the load is removed, where it always runs through a round to get to minimum temperature. (10 keys in the GCW version unsuccessfully.) Is there any experience with this error? Greeting Thomas
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Purchase advice: 9000 2.3-16 CS
hello to all of you…please ask for your help. need a second car for my wife for about 8-10tkm in the year and a saab is definitely in question. what is to be paid attention…has the motorization chain or timing belt described in the case? he is without turbo or? what known weak spots are to be observed and how long will he keep in good care in the past and in the future? from when to when was this variant built? how much can he use 1 or 2 hand with good equipment, service at saab regularly with 100-150tkm running performance? mfg and many thanks to roger
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I need HILIFE
I bought a used Saab 9000 i. I was told that the clutch had to be replaced in a short time. During the test drive I noticed that the car was badly dressed, as the salesman already said. So I drove towards home and with a longer mountain cup I hardly made any progress. I was then a bit unnoticed (Wutanfall 2 class) …. first gear in and full throttle… all of a sudden he pulled off. I thought well, if the clutch now packs, I can drive home. He also had to switch himself almost normal. Only when driving I had as good as no game, but it went. Almost 80 km further on he didn’t pull anymore. No matter which gear I put in, whether with or without domes, it no longer packs and the car does not move any cm. I can’t imagine that the disc is down, because it packed, so something else must be defective. I am not a mechanic and unfortunately I don’t have the finances for an expensive workshop, so I have to help myself. I urgently need tips, as I can fix it.