Hello together, I have read a lot about this here but actually everything other signs than my soft – cover (Bj 91 – 300 24V)!! I can open the windows manually but in connection with the cover open these do not go down. Roll-over iron can be operated by switch and also works. If I want to open the cover I hear a slight cracking from the back as if it can ́t / can ́t ?? When I go with the button close but I notice that the cover is pulled right down at the front of the disc at the top. Had noticed in the last days that if I can ́t open the right window with the open cover can ́t close anymore. This went then quite normal again when the cover was closed 🙁 And since today the cover unfortunately doesn ́t want to open anymore !! Would I be very happy about tips and tricks. Greeting from Aalen KK
Author: 00c12f
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ABC message in AI
Hello With a SL55AMG lights up in the AI ABC is disturbed, error memory is short test and there is pressure sensor disturbed in it. Ok then the tests performed and it was called I should renew the hydraulic pump that sits in the front of the engine. I changed everything and filled in oil and ventilated, took a short test and then engine started again the same error message again tested says again pump defective. The pump builds up pressure of approx. 200Bar in approx. 80seconds, I find it too much. I then sometimes pressure sensor or ventli block that sits in the wheel box at the front left and still needs the same problem or error in the memory inside. both things new is not normal after all. And again when I do the test he brings the pump that I have exchanged now already three times or the pressure increase during the test always needs 80sec. with a comparison car it takes only approx. 10seconds. MFG.
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SL500 (R129) Engine running restless for a short time
Good morning from New Zealand! Last year I bought a SL500 Bj 1994 76,000km and am actually very satisfied! I have the problem that it first runs completely normal and calmly after starting. This only lasts about 3-5 minutes – apparently until the engine has some temperature – and then it seems that the electronics turn off 4 cylinders. The engine then sounds like a poorly adjusted Trabbi and has almost no power. This condition then stops about 2-3 minutes and suddenly the full power is back and the car runs like ever. My factory city has already had this electronic reading device on the engine… but can’t find a mistake. Maybe someone of you has an idea what it might be. Thank you in advance!
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Hello to everyone, I’m new here ….
A nice morning in the round!!! Read here already for a few weeks and have finally decided in the previous week for my first VOLVO (V70 2.4D EZ 04/03 ). The reason to take a used one is due to bad experiences with my last OPEL ( Vectra GTS ) which I bought again. In the first 2 years however, he would have to accept over 60 box stops with my dealer, which has destroyed my trust to NEW vehicles something. Now I test times a “driving living room” in green and have to express a big praise after the first week. According to the following criteria I have taken the decision to search for a vehicle: 1. 5 doors, because the dog has to carry with me. 2. “Sportsman” diesel, on the one side for optical reasons, and on the second I drive long distance and prefer a somewhat harder feel. (actually my back has taken over!) 3. from 125 hp to top and not under 2 liters of cubic capacity was actually fulfilled everything up to: 1. Sporty – since he has none of it 2. Hard feeling – because my back has not too much.
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Brakes squeak when they get warm
I have been having a very annoying problem for quite some time: my brakes squeaky like an old freight train as soon as they get warm. Piston New brake calipers completely overhauled front and rear, absolutely light and resistance-free running, sliding bolts new. Everything greased with suitable means. Flooring Textar, discs Textar each new (previously ATE, has squealed the same) sliding surfaces and co ATE antiquietch paste (no difference to ceramic paste or copper paste) I am somehow at the end with my Latin. PS: brake values absolutely at new car level, no delay, absolutely uniform, no matter which brake. Brake fluid also new, system completely rinsed and ventilated.
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Interior lighting and dipped-beam flickering
Hello together…On my elk the interior lighting flickers. I noticed it first on the BC lighting, but also the other lamps flicker. Also on the dipped light you can see it. The Lima was changed a year ago. On the battery it is rather not, they had changed for another. The “battery cables” were also changed about 2 years ago. The light switch and the “dimming switch” we also changed through. The Lima produces 14,2 volts and came from Skandix. Someone an idea about what that could be? Currently also my rear flap lock spins, but it can hardly lie on that. I change this now on the WE for a used…
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Crack in the casting manifold / flange to weld cat?
Good evening all together, My V70 unfortunately already has the no longer available cast manifold parts No. 31216153 . The flex tube is welded on my cat. On the 1st cylinder the manifold has a visible crack… Unfortunately I have the problem that there is no new one here. Not original and not as a replica. Now I thought to myself: – Buy the sheet manifold with welded flex tube and separate the old flex tube from the cat. – Buy a new flex tube individually to separate the flange from this flex tube and weld to the old cat. (Picture 2) So I would have “refurbished” my crumb without paying the ridiculous 1500€ at Skandix. What do you think of this idea? Maybe someone still had a more simple or different approach, with a torn casting manifold
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Ventilation still stinks when it rains
Who of you has the problem when it rained, that after the departure it stinks out of the ventilation for a time modrig/muffled? (climate off) I’ve actually had the problem since always…. Also my spring cleaning did not help…. All dirt under the cover removed. A drain freed (all 4 drains are free). Before I tried it once with activated carbon filter but did not do anything. My guess is that the rain from the windshield runs under the bar of the windshield on the filter (set red circled on the picture). I don’t have such a sealing impression. Had it taken off to clean the disc there too sometimes. Wouldn’t it be possible? I was sure but somewhere I had read exactly of this problem that it runs on the filter there.
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v60 doors freeze to
Hello, we are just coming back from the ski holiday. There I had the problem every morning that the doors of our V60 were frozen and had only to open with proper effort. I have the impression that it is due to construction, because the seals of the doors are not pure rubber, but are such a felt-rubber mixture. I have also noticed several times that the seals are wet and in the inner part of the door moisture stands. No wonder that this then freeze at temperatures below zero at the carros series. Did you address the one on the seals & moisture, which meant that this would be normal and “state of the technology”. Find this statement not really satisfactory, especially with a Swedish vehicle that is supposedly exposed to more frequent winter conditions. Did you have similar experiences or tips to remedy it?
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Are you satisfied with BLIS (dead angle detection) in S60 / XC60 or S70 / XC70
I continued the topic of the main-beam assistant, which has then expanded to other assistants, now in a separate thread. Thanks again for your help and especially to ExcavatorHeinz for the tip with the optimal years of construction 2015 to 2017. I will preferably look for it. The Totwinkelassisten / BLIS is particularly relevant to me (after 3 close collisions during the lane change on the highway in recent years). Again, I would be interested in your assessment for the models mentioned in the title. How reliable does the recognition work with you and to which model/construction year you refer? Does the 60s series also have the more modern technology than the 70s series (S70 / XC70)?