Author: 00c12f

Today my beloved Volvo gave up. He had started to switch the last days late from the first to the 2nd course. Especially when he was cold. Then everything was ok again. Then he jumped into the emergency run with a flashing famous arrow. I already thought about changing the gear oil. It still looks a bit bright but you can also find small black particles in it. Today the Volvo suddenly had no drive during the ride at approx. 80 km/h. Rolling out let the same problem start again after a while. He did not go from the spot anymore only the speedometer went up like idle. Then it did not go back again. The drive passed quite slowly when driving slowly until it pulled nothing at all. Now I left the Volvo there first. What do you mean it is a gear oil change still value or is it too late.

Evening together, I am normally more on the road in the Opel or VW Forum, but since this morning call a beautiful V70 2.5 with 144hp Bj 1997 my property Hab with Volvo never had anything to do, but screw everything itself for years and for the reason of the eternal “shit will be in workshops” also got me a own stage. My Volvo claps at the clutch step, I close to 99% on the back storage. Is that with my V70 a big act to change that, there is possibly even a good instruction here? Is there anything to consider with Volvo and how it looks…the clutch also here better to complete right now? The car now has 280000 km on the clock and up to the clapping the clutch still does not seem to be at the border. I am surprised by the whole process (except the seats) Freue me over every tip. LG Markus

Hello together, in advance it’s about the following vehicle: Volvo 855 144 PS 10V automatic MJ 1996 (OBD) 290,000km Prins LPG system Now to the problem: The vehicle starts badly, preferably when it was turned off 1-2 hours. That means you have to org a little more and sometimes you experience really Radau from the engine room, as if the engine were hitting back. So I would at least formulate that. Usually this works for the next attempt. If the engine control light was not on, it is at the latest. When it is on, it runs wonderfully. Since I am a quiet reader here for a long time and could solve so already some things (e.g.: ABS control unit sold out, thank you for it!), I had the error read out (a friend has a reading device, but does not live in the vicinity): A camshaft position encoder switching circuit (Bank 1) Everything then read clear, here in the forum you can read maybe also that he likes to make problems, so it was ordered by Skandix and then everything was ok for a week. Then again the again the broken message was well with me.

Hello, Now shortly before Tüv my C70 starts to quaggle again. Recently I stop with the speed up a hard definable noise which has its origin somewhere in the front half of the car. It sounds as if the tires would spin off, however it is clearly mechanical origin. It occurs from 1500 rpm to the end. Mainly in the gears 1-3. The other two will probably follow with advanced illness. At constant speed there is nothing to hear, stop at speed. If you do this more strongly, the noise is also stronger. My guess is that the clutch slowly but surely blesses the temporal, but actually it feels too good for it. Another guess would be that the noise is developing in the engine room and it might be a belt or something. But actually it sounds different… Maybe someone has an idea, I would like to thank you for it.

… always flies. Result, AC without function and both labda probes error message . Where in the wire harness would you look? When I stand in front of the box I have a short against mass on the left side of the fuse. (See photo 3) Right side backup is the switched plus … so much I could measure already. Stand behind Napoli in Italy at 27 degrees.

Hello to the round, I wanted to upgrade the cruiser today with my 850 switch. Up to the last cable I got through great, because in the net there is an almost perfect, strongly illustrated instruction (don’t know the link). Just almost perfect, because a tiny wire harness is not described there further (Fig. 1). While I was immediately clear from the plug shape, which are the two pedal switch plugs, it is vaguely clear to me that the yellow plug should probably replace the yellow one present at the brake pedal switch. But it is completely unclear to me – even after many hours and exhausting study of the WHB (Fig. 2) – where the large white plug belongs… Can someone help me there? Maybe with a picture? Thank you in advance… Best greetings from the southern north Hessen from the beach of the Fulda, Axel

So, here I am, fresh and new in the world of this forum and in the Volvo Turbos…. Recently I am the owner of a Volvo V70 2.5T AWD (142kw) And since the problems start car is great, runs super, doesn’t want to miss it anymore. Sorry, ran super. Because: the crankshaft housing is leaking. Disassemble and seal? What if you find out that the parts of the crankcase are pulled away? Because the car is fully equipped and otherwise in super condition, I want to invest money and build it up. But I think rather to get another engine needed, to have it overhauled at the capable engine builder, and then swap. But, I don’t find a single B5244T3 only (147kW). Or B5254T (will otherwise be indicated with the same performance?!) Can I take one of these substitutes? Who knows capable engine builders who might take less than 3000,-€ for such an action. Sure, the performance may eventually be higher (thinking 250 hp) I will not hope…

The second thing I had to say was that I had to change the spark plugs with my V70 Bj 99 and 400,000 km, because the engine was running unround and not quiet. After I had the cover down, everything swam in a small oil pool (except for the outer cylinders). I took the oil with a cloth and then saw that these small cable hoses (black and so ripped) were completely porous and at 90% of the places were blown away. This rest I blew out with compressed air before I put off the connection to the spark plugs. Unfortunately, the workshop did not do that at the last change. In all spark plug shafts there was too much brute stuff. I blew it out with compressed air so well, but also under the sealings of the candles it was already, of course nicely stuck. I did not trust now with the open access to the combustion room to get too strong and first the new candles so screwed up. First question: Did someone have a good idea how to clean up that there? Can the bad run of the oil just come off of course.

Moin, I have read out the following permanate error codes. After the deletion, the again… MKL does not light up. ECM-1200 intake air temperature sensor. Signal too high / signal too low ECM-170F air pressure sensor/charge pressure sensor – range check / wrong signal ECM-1600 charging pressure sensor. Signal too high / signal too low Have a little Googleled around, on an English-language volvo forum the last two errors occurred with someone. the culprit is supposed to be a “MAP sensor”. Does this sensor also have a different designation and where is it located ? what looks like with the intake air temperature sensor … a follow-up error from the map sensor ? and benefits, if something like that does not have to light up the MKL ?