Author: 00c12f

Hello Saab friends, I unfortunately found a rusting on the left fender today and then dismantled the fender. Of course, it would be best if I could find both fenders somewhere without rust damage and best in blue metallic “Body colour: 257 Midnight Blue”. Until then I will deal with the preparation of the rust spots and would be very happy about tips on the following points: – how and by what means completely remove the rust – how and by what means then correct the holes – and finally, by what means and in what order then rebuild the varnish. Thanks in advance for your help rpe 9000

I have now had the phenomenon twice in the interval of four weeks that the flat belt on the pulley on the 9000 Turbo 2,3 (BJ 94) jumps right up the front when you open the hood. Rolls and straps are ripped and the belt then only runs on three grooves over the roll. I then got on it again, went very hard, so much so you would put a bicycle chain on it again. The strap is so tight, but not as tight as before. I wonder now whether the strap has just been chanted and I just put on a new one or if the pulley tensioner is over there if necessary. How can I find out and how is it blown. The tensioner looks like such a claustrophobic shock absorber.

Hi, by the people at www.saab-parts.eu I now got a longer e-mail, where with detailed reasons is warned of the use of synthetic motor oils. (e.g. “…absolutely lethal”. Main reason: at the cold start low quantities of gasoline would be landed in the oil. With mineral oils no problem, but petrol does not deal with synthetic oils, which ultimately leads to oil sludge, burnout and clogged oil sieve. If the oil sieve is dense, the engine is quickly over. It is also justified that the flat part of the oil tank lies directly above the cat, thus very hot, which leads to the loss of the synthetic oil gasoline mixture. Urgent advice: expand oil sieves and clean and only take mineral oil (e.g. 10W-30/40). For a Saab engine is the expensive Snynthetiköl nothing. Here is the link to this info. http://www.saab-parts.eu/DEN-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-s.

Hello, my 9000er received a new ignition cassette in November 2011 and then drove 40,000. Always start completely without any problems. Now suddenly 2x a little delayed and now almost no more: 3 x 6 seconds without success. At the 4th time it went on … I had the ignition cassette in suspicion and thought about replacing it. The one from the Saab workshop in Augsburg said that I should recharge the battery. At the next start the voltmeter actually only showed 7.1 volts at the start process, although the starter turned as quickly as usual. After charging with the good C-Tek it again showed 11,1 volts and started as usual quickly. Question: Is it possible that the ignition cassette does not generate enough sparks at low volts even though the starter spins as usual? I already think to buy an ignition cassette so that I have been lying down because I have already stayed with a defective cassette. The battery is renewed in October 2012, so it would have to be good. The car is usually driven in short traffic (about 8 km?) Like Jens?

Hello to each other, with my Saab 9000i Bj. 89 (128hp) I noticed more often (of course only if the AB is empty… ), that there is no limit to the maximum speed due to the wind resistance … is that right? That means in plain language that I can drive in the 5th course up to the speed limiter (speed indicator is then about 220 km/h). But so that the engine does not run into the red dashed area (which one should only use at short notice), I have to go off the gas. I have the feeling that the car runs without speed limiter at least 230-240 km/h, is that also so with you?! Greeting Gizmon