Servus bin neu hir im Motortalk Hab ein Problem mit meine Volvo V40 1.8 Bj2003 Abundzu jumps after 3 seconds first on no matter warm or cold the engine sometimes goes 3 days good is nothing last 2 weeks is once again well gone and time and again he does not want to start immediately. All 1-2 Wochn lights up the immobilizer light times. At the new start is again off. Have already let the Volvo dealer read out error memory error message: Communication to the control unit lost. The master said it can have the motor control unit or immobilizer control unit a make or have a cable from the motor control unit to the immobilizer control unit interrupting. The last 2 weeks was nox but the last few days he zicks against a bit. As soon as the car runs impeccable Have you ever had such a problem.
Author: 00c12f
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Exchange of the car radio HU1205 – Subwoofer no longer works: meaning of the plug in the V40?
Hello, I had to replace my (according to the workshop defective) HU1205, which was originally installed in the V40, because it pulled too much power in the rest state and so regularly emptied the battery. Now I bought and installed a new Kenwood KDC 455UW, whereby the SUbwoofer in the trunk no longer seems to work. Now there are four cables in the car, of which I could already identify 3 – I attach the photo times: the wide green and wide gray are clearly attached to the sockets on the radio (by ISO adapter). The right small in the picture should be the antenna (also connected by adapter). But what is the left one in the picture? That is a “subwoofernated” cable. Could it be related to the subwoofer? The radio also has 2 Cinch outputs for such purposes. Or is the fourth cable something concerning the Navi in the H1205?
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Grey leather seats – stubborn brown tire prints
Hello I hope someone can help me. I have a BMW 320 E90 with grey leather seats (Montana-Grey). The previous owner had deposited 2 of the 4 winter bikes on the back bench over a long period of time. This resulted in clearly recognizable BRAUNE prints or discoloration. I have now distributed the profile pattern and the inscription of the tyres on my seats! I have tried it so far with leather care, vinegar water, industry cleaner & Sonax stain & adhesive remover. I have not even got a bit clean with any of the mentioned means. How do such prints arise and how can I get them away from them?! I am grateful for any answer. mfg iLLmat
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Leather care
Hello! I have a question about the care and cleaning of the leather. I have already read soooo a lot. Only what this already too much and now I don’t even look through. Amor All, Lexol etc My cow (BJ 2012 22tkm) has leather on the dashboard, door panels, arm rack, shift knob and the seats are in partial leather (Alcantara) and of course steering wheel Now my questions: 1) How do you clean and maintain your leather faucet board or door panels etc.? – with Amor All leather care towels? 2) How do you “grease” your steering wheel? I have pretty dry / rough hands. 3) Seats in partial leather. How do I best care for “folding” to avoid / prevent (sitzwangen) Thank you in advance !!
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Is a V70 automatic / petroler with 150,000 still a purchase recommendation?
Hello dear experienced, I urgently need your advice. The question: Is a 10 year old V70 2,4 (automatic / petrol) with a mileage of over 150,000 kilometers still a purchase recommendation or should I leave my fingers off such a car? What time is there for a V70 petroler with this mileage still ahead. The background: I am a wheelchair driver, must sell my beloved A2 (handshift) and get me an automatic, which I can then convert to hand gas. Importantly, it must be a big one, because in the meantime I have bought a handbike. Means: In the car I and my loved one, on the back bench of the dog, behind the Rolli and the hand bike plus weekend luggage and finally on the trailer coupling of the bicycle carrier with the wheel of my loved one. Listens to how a circus, but is only the pleasure and joy of active life 🙂 Since the conversion already will inevitably devour some money, I do not want to make the mistake and when buying a car carelessly put on the wrong horse. What is your good advice?
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Check the scrambles?
Hello, as part of the setting of my LPG system, I came across the following phenomenon: The trim values require much less correction under load than, for example, in sliding mode. In other words, under non-load, the engine tends to skim off. LMM is new, the suction cam should be tight (excessive brake cleaner test), Lambda probe delivers nice values… A Forian now said that a defective cracker can lead false air to the Lambda probe. And with the 5-cylinders, there is already that. Now my question: How can I test this? Stage is not available, but bucks. I also have gas Leckscuhspray, can I use that? Do I have to dismantle what? I have already stopped the exhaust, the engine did not go out, but it became very difficult to withstand the pressure.
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Volvo S80 2001 – Radio HU-601 – how to remove control unit
Hello together, I had just upgraded my o.a. radio. I wanted to replace a pear and repair a pressure button without a pressure point – but I didn’t see any way to get the control unit off (yes, it’s clipped outside) but… It must still be “somewhere” screwed … I had almost everything dismantled the side panels, CD players etc. – but “no way”. Can anyone help me here? I have already searched extensively on the net (so please don’t use any answers like “…use the SuFu…”. Thank you Udo
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Springs other than those installed in the parts report
Hello I had to say to myself when I bought my car from the previous owner that he installed a sports suspension and would be lowered. Now check more closely I saw that the number on the spring does not match the test report. After googling for an expert report for the springs I also came across an expert report, however, only for a Z4 and I drive an e46. So I wonder if I might still have to make it easier with the tüv or have to install new springs Can someone help me?
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Total damage to engine during test drive of the workshop
I had recently noticed slight smoke in the engine of my BMW 640d, which was probably caused by diesel drops in the engine compartment. I then brought the vehicle to the workshop, where it was found that a valve cover seal is leaking and that possibly one or more injectors are leaking. Therefore, the engine was cleaned several times in the workshop according to telephone information and tested again and again. After the 5th test drive a loud clacker was also heard. This was not the case when driving to the workshop or before. According to the owner of the workshop suspicion of conrod bearing damage (also in the 1st calculation ) or injectors. I also listened to the clackering and ordered the workshop to look at the injectors. 2 days later, the owner of the workshop calls me and informs me that, despite the considerable engine noise, he has driven the vehicle again and that it has caused total damage to the engine, i.e. piston eater. However, he shows any blame for the engine damage, this would be my problem as a customer.
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Can anyone tell me what kind of fluid this is and how I can get it away?
Hello, unfortunately, our lodger has left a very unsightly spot in the TG. Well, we can now go to the investigation which liquid this could be. Where the stain is to be seen, the engine is placed. I still sucked it up yesterday with kitchen roll. It looks greasy on the fingers, but smelled not really strong and certainly not to ÖL. The color is reddish and has now left a spot. It looks like a motor oil or the like. I wanted to try it today with Mellerud car oil remover. We unfortunately have to get the stain completely away, otherwise we have to pay a penalty at the delivery in January. and I really have zero bucks on it. What could it be and could Mellerud really help or is there still a housewife trick? Thank you.