Hello dear MTler and Moose Drivers! Because I am too lazy, too untalented and too “sparable” to install a car radio with MP3 capabilities, I have evaded the Yatour alternative. Installation – relatively problem-free function – relatively problem-free Relatively because 1.) the cable for connecting the car radio to the Yatour is a little short. The Yatour should actually be installed in the storage compartment in the center console. However, the cable is about 50cm too short. Question: Is there an extension cable or longer cable available for sale in the trade or is here someone who could solder something like this to me? 2.) the device puts a kind of howling on the speakers in operation. Directly depending on the speed of the engine (vrmtl. alternator). The howling is good to hear with quiet music. Question: What could this be? The Yatour is connected to the car radio current connection by means of power thief. With every gas giving “heart the noise in the loudspeakers” accordingly. Have I misplaced 02; I forgot to install any of your radio filter?
Author: 00c12f
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Oil trap: channels to the engine absolutely tight. Question!
Moinsen, today the elk was supposed to get its new oil trap. So it was done and everything was dismantled and then the shock: Both holes in the engine block were completely dense with oil charcoal. I carefully tried to pour out the stuff. When the holes were so far free, I took out more stuff with a wire. I found out that the holes are open at the right angle and there is also oil coal in it. I am sure that parts have also migrated into the engine. So the elk. Tomorrow is going to a self-help workshop. My plan is to dismantle the oil tank and clean everything. My question is: Does anyone know how the nodding channels of the drilling continue? Is it going directly into the oil tank? In another Volvo_Forum I have just read that the channels do not lead into the oil tank. But how do you want to clean them and where do the channels go??? Who can bring light into the dark? Oh, yes… is it right that the oil bath “only” is sealed with means?
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Three child seats in the 7-seater XC90 – Your experience
Hello! I would like to know how you accommodate your children in the XC90. We currently have a Maxi-Cosi with Isofix base for group 0 and a Roman for group 1. Assuming that you have three children with an age range of 2 to 3 years (sometimes size and weight out of consideration), how would you best accommodate them? According to the latest recommendations, kids should sit against the direction of travel as long as possible. And all of this since this summer there are also the iSize models. I wonder how I get to the rear two seats, if both outside seats of the second row are covered with child seats and thus can no longer be folded forward to get to the third row. Isofix holders are only two. How do you do that? Thank you!
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Used purchase Renault Zoe – where is the catch?
Hello Together, I am currently looking for a small car that should be used as an absolutely classic second vehicle and a larger shopping bag and all the conditions speak for a small electric sparkler to “strom” around the city: – short distance operation with max. 30km/street in everyday life – very rarely distances up to max. 150km (for everything else another household vehicle is used) – double garage (refitting wallbox no problem, three-phase current in the basement of the house available The budget is at max. 10,000 EUR plus the sale of the current small car (just less!) Now I have come across vehicles like e-Up, Mii electric and just the Zoe. So small cars with pure electric drive, which can be used in contrast to the smart as a fully-fledged car (second row of seats & a “koffer room” that can swallow one week purchase) That is to the previous story. Specifically I have found some Zoes, which are at around 6,000 EUR without battery and at first glance make a good impression. I found for Renault the information that the battery rental is not in the case of ~80km/month?
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Beginners ask Zoe procedures….
Hello, yesterday we bought a Zoe 2014 with 88,000 km. Now I had cleaned the processes, was probably the first time, since already plants have grown in there. What is surprising me, that on the driver side a rubber flow is in it and on the passenger side an oval hole the painted sheet one looks at. Must that be so? With the hose and plenty of water also comes out water down but also in the middle of the wheelbox. Then another question about the heating. Had the car driven over the highway, set 22 degrees and automatic. Outside temperature 10 degrees. Despite turning the controller on high, only lukewarm air, at home I had ice-cold feet. Do I do something wrong, must say ac or is this so at the outside temperatures?
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Battery level, what happens when?
Hello Together, I’m curious about the experiences with (almost) empty batteries: I’ve tried to drive the Zoe l(almost) eer 2 times (55kw/h model:Riviera). At 9% charge and approx. 30 km range came the message that the ECO mode is taken into account in the indication. At some point the battery indicator became yellow and the computer asked me if I wanted to charge the car. At 4% and approx. 20Kilometer range indication I then charged the Zoe. My question is: How far can you unload the battery until the car stops. Is this already happening? Is there a kind of “notentrieglung” for a few kilometers more? Will the charging condition become red at some point, as a last warning? Can you unload the battery up to 0% (even if that wouldn’t be good) or take into account the battery management system, so that no damage arises. Are perhaps strange questions, however, and maybe since the one or other has already made his experiences.
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LeasingResidual value : less value without particulate filter
From a press release: “Fabrikneue Dieselautos ohne Filteren have lost between 800 and 1000 Euro in the past two weeks, reports the industry newspaper “Automobilwoche” on the basis of a study by EurotaxSchwacke. Many residual value calculations of leasing companies and auto banks are thus obsolete. “There, values break away daily,” said Eurotax manager Martin Verelli of the newspaper.”
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Volvo rotary rate sensor defective repair possible- alternative equivalent parts???
Hello together, thanks for the help of a nice user`s now the VIDA works and so now some errors on the car come plausible. Volvo XC90 from 06/2006 with D5 185PS; automatic 151.000km. I could fix some small errors on glow plugs etc.. The not unknown topic with the ESP (maintenance anti-slip…) is still unexplained. Lt. VIDA should be accelerometers (displacement errors) or cross-acceleration sensors of the ubel culprits. With some research it turned out that water has flowed through the exhaust pipe, which is pulled in and out of the socket at the column, into the passenger room. Thus, the sensor located at the lowest point had received water and looks at least outside not so doll. Oxidated aluminum and slightly corroded contacts…. From inside that looks much better…. Who wants to delete the wrong part of Volvo`s new part?
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Volvo V70 Bifuel – replacement of the gas distributor
Dear people, for some time now the car has been running out of gas. Driving is then only possible for a certain time on petrol operation. Then it goes back a few weeks and the error comes up again. Today the Volvo was then with the friendly one. Then the hammer: it would have to be replaced the gas distributor, spark plugs and filter. Cost point:1.500 Euro!!! Edit: How is the error in the gas system actually determined? Or would not the system have to be adjusted first? Can someone give me an assessment whether the price fits and maybe someone else has had such a mistake? Thank you for your feedback. Greeting odddo
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The right lock for the bonnet no longer rests
The right lock for the bonnet – see photo – no longer snaps in. The U-hook on the bonnet is then not pulled down according to purpose. You can see this malfunction on the bonnet, which stands a little above the fender. A former emergency aid no longer works. With it I could push the claw of the lock down by means of a powerful screwdriver until it snapped in. Then I pulled the unlocking handle. The claw opened and locked up accordingly again according to purpose. This emergency aid no longer works as described. I have the impression that compared to earlier less tension is on the unlocking handle. The grip actuation feels more smoo. The Bowden trains visible in the engine compartment to the left lock and to the right lock look o-k. Off and seem to be mounted correctly. What can be the reason that the right lock for the bonnet no longer snaps in? P.S. My experience with the Haynes Service & Repair Manual, however, is currently seen here repeatedly: The topic of the bonnet is not addressed in any way.