MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • 98 Series 125 SX cracks at medium speed

    Hello all, first of all, happy Easter on all sides. I met my childhood dream of crossmotorad in the middle of this week and now as not knowing the screw the first question: I drove yesterday the second time and creaked in the low and middle speed range and stuttered the moped. At higher turning fences it runs like hell and you can pull the gears cleanly. Can this have been due to the about 10 degrees higher temperatures compared to the last ride? 2. this St What do I do with it, and how (clockwise or opposite). 3. once gasifier-adjust for stupides please^^ I only got the one nozzle that is installed in the engine to the moped. Should I buy such a 10 jet set or do I need in principle only one? 4. the seller said with me to change the oil every 8 hours. 10w40. Normal motor oil, or this transmission oil from the motorcycle specialist store? Have another canister 15w40 Moto I have finished the tank with 1:33 when buying at a petrol station. Did the seller recommend me because of the better lubrication. Yesterday I bought Super Benzin and Castrol 2t Racing. Should I stay at the mixing ratio or 1:50 drive? Is this oil good? 6. wanted to clean and care for me today. But have no filter oil here and it’s a holiday. Can I use the air filter as an emergency solution oil with 2t oil or 15w40? So unique, it will be ordered Tuesday of course filter oil Many questions at once as you see. Thank you in advance

  • How much KM is still in order for a LC4

    How many kilometers can you buy an LC4 (with/without high flow) still calm conscience? I would like to buy one and have some with >20 TKM in mind, which is quite cheap. Can you still do something with so many kilometers?

  • SM – Conversion

    Hello! In my career as a biker I had some road and enduro machines. Now I decided to get a 525 EXC. Optionally I wanted to get another set of SM tyres. Can someone tell me if I also have to make changes on the brake system when changing wheels? The brake disc at the front is usually much larger on the SM wheel.

  • Rebuilding KTM EXC from scratch

    Hello guys! I’ve been very motivated for a long time to assemble an EXC 450/530 as an enduro for my EXC 530 Supermoto. However, the whole thing is supposed to happen with a completely new frame and a lot of new parts. How’s that going with the machine being allowed with a new frame from the KTM plant, do I have some problems there and then have to have the whole bike taken off individually to drive it on the road? I know – quite expensive story, but the i don’t ask the topic now. Would you just like to know if you know what about the completely new framework and the admission? The left to greet Jannik

  • KTM – Refill Hydraulic Coupling

    Hello dear KTM screwdriver I have recently had the 640 lc4 and I already noticed at the test drive the very turned out clutch lever (which has so DIN red scratch). If you set the lever so that I can still hold the clutch pleasantly with my fingers, this grinds. Insert a gear and have pulled brake is not possible –> motor goes off. So I looked into the clutch encoder liquid tank and saw that it is almost empty. When I pump something at the clutch on a straight motorcycle, small air bubbles rise from the hole. In my opinion, air must be in the system that restricts the function so that you have to turn the screw completely into it. Today I will remove the pick-up cylinder and clean the whole system. Vllt is below a seal leaking and has caused the disappearance of the liquid. My question would be jetz t : – Can I also do the venting with a brake vacuum pump ? – Or do I have to proceed like this : Put the syringe with oil on the venting screw below and push the oil up , giver cylinder through a short hose of the venting screw on the pump into the container “short-circuit ” and by pulling the clutch completely vent the pump and then pass the same again with the venting screw on the receiver cylinder to vent the line ? – Magura Blood I find very can I use this oil without any problems? (http://pages.ebay.com/…/?…) – Where do I get the seals, if this should have aged Has now become a bit longer, but I wanted to describe everything as closely as possible, so that you know what I have to do and what I have not found through googles Greeting Schorsch

  • Renault R8 – Blinker / warning flasher problems

    Hello together. my Renault R8 always had some problems with the warning flasher, which only blinked on one side, the normal turn signal left / right against it worked perfectly. Now I cleaned up the very connected switch with 7 contacts for the warning flasher a little bit on the contacts (cable shoe off – brass brush) again. The warning flasher now works again 1a on all 4 turn signals and also sneezing bright. However, the normal turn signal now does not work at all Does someone have an idea where I should first search / measure? Although I have a repair book from the time with schematics, unfortunately there is nowhere noted where relays and fuses are installed :S Greetings Sebastian

  • Peugot J5 smokes blue when starting, engine runs round when you don’t give gas

    Hello dear ones, I’m looking for something to find the cause for my Peugot J5 2.5l TD. 95hp I hope you have some good advice. So this is just the IST condition: – Motor rumbles when starting when no gas has been added and smokes blue – if you have more gas, the blue smoke also burns down – he lost oil on a leaky hose before and then when I wanted to check on tires little oil and much less cooling water in it – We rkstatt then (car was leaning when measuring) dropped 1l of oil too much (I drove once through the city then measured again and removed the liter) – otherwise he drives relatively normal, with longer driving time I have the feeling that he loses some power what happened so far: check I already: – air filter – valve play – control times – charging air cooler – cooling water chain should also be tight I will next remove the air hose from the turbo and look if there is oil in there. Otherwise I would be extremely grateful what I can check next. Injection nozzles (pump still looks very new) valve seals? Looking forward to a few advices Best regards Nadine

  • Mounting DGV carburetor “wrong around” / turning 180 degrees

    I have a DGV 5A weaver carburetor, which is supposed to be intended for the Ford OHC engine. However, all relevant connections and adjustment screws (stand gas, mixture, chokebars, petrol line, etc.) on the inside of the valve cover are there, so that you get extremely bad and burn your fingers if you still make settings on the warm running engine. Therefore I wanted to turn the carburetor. But since there was no hit in the net, place Maybe someone who wants to do something similar will help. The fittings of the DGV are symmetrical. Therefore, you can put the carburettor on the base in both directions. If you “wrongly around” the carburettor, you need a new holder for the gas drawer on the other side. On this side there are no threads for attaching such a construction. However, the screws on the carburettor base are quite long, so that you still have there I don’t win a beauty prize with it. 🙂 But the part does what it is supposed to do. That’s enough for me for the time being. I didn’t want to “make everything nice” tonight. A short 5km test drive around the block showed no change in mixture or driving behaviour.

  • Warning turn signal Plus on mass

    Good evening, here in the round I am new. My vehicle Warszawa from 1954, Plus is attached to mass. My question: How do I connect a warning flasher. NESAN NS 602. The switch of the turn signal has 3 cables, green, white and black. Now from the warning flasher VL to green, VR to black and 49a to white is connected. Warning flasher only works with ignition electric on the car is not my “special area”. That’s why I need help here so that the visit to the upcoming TÜV becomes successful. ?? Many Thanks and a nice evening. Rainer.

  • Ford Taunus brake closes

    I have reactivated a Knudsen Taunus, who stood in a garage for 20 years. The Taunus is in itself well there, also has a fresh H approval. Unfortunately, I have the problem that after a few kilometers drive, the front wheel brake no longer opens. As part of the reconstruction I have revised 1. the old brake calipers with reperture sets 2. all rubber lines replaced 3. Brake power amplifier and main brake cylinder as well as discs and brake pads. But that doesn’t seem to be the case. Since everything is new now, I honestly lack an idea where the problem might lie? If you start with a cold engine, the Taunus will brake wonderfully. Just as it should. After a 10 km drive, the brake won’t open properly. Does anyone have an idea what this might be about?