Author: 00c12f

  • Remove rust on sheet metal parts to be painted

    Hello, I know, old hat…. So at least a thousand times already asked and answered. And there is already the problem, 1000 questions – 1000 answers… Besides some already >10 years old and many products are already out of environmental protection already not easy. The following starting position: We have a about 50 year old tent trailer and the stood, health-related, many years in our old screw hall in the corner, this year we want to get rid of it again, unfortunately the box from outside completely covered with small rust pimples. I have now made one of the surfaces with CSD disc and afterwards with an exenter grinder blank, but there are still very small rust nests over. My first thought and because still what was there was Fertan, today I washed it off again and already after easy grinding came new rust under the phosphate layer to the appearance. So nothing. This is not to be a top restoration now, just so that you can trust yourself with it among people kan n and it doesn’t start to gammel again. Completely grind down and radiate away, because it is only very thin sheet metal, think so in the range 0.5mm. Does anyone have experiences like I should attack there best? Acid? The whole should also remain financially within the appropriate framework, has finished also only a value of a few hundred euros. I still take pictures. Greetings, Marc

  • Old-timer, automatic and first-time car?

    Okay, where do I start… Please be friendly I don’t know about cars. As a student who has a very long way to university I think slowly that it’s time for a car. But I have incredibly fallen in love with the Porsche 944 but also cars like Nissan 200sx. I think I like the fliplights above all and simply the shape both are very similar already. By the way, I find very few offers to Nissan can tell me something? Both are oldtimers and I have Here and there automatics and classic cars are not good… I would prefer an automatics. My second question would be, is a classic car even recommended as a first car? What about safety measures? Airbag, Navi etc. ? I have always driven our family car a Hyundai i30 switch if it is important. Would be very grateful for people who know each other thank you!

  • Coupling/MZ 500 R

    Hello MZ-Reiter, I’ve been re-entering for three months. With my MZ 500 R the clutch bowden train is torn. Question:Is the clutch housing divided,or do I have to dismantle the combined cam control unit to change the Bowden train? Who can recommend me suitable literature for hobby screwdrivers?

  • Jincheng Q50, Honda Chaly replica!

    Hello municipality, I have such a vehicle standing with me (Jincheng Q50) and want to wake it up and rebuild it. Have already spent hours in the net to get any spare parts for this vehicle, but without success. Was sold/sold by the practitioner DIY market! Are there now also parts of Honda, possibly replica parts? The engine is a Lizens replica, is a 4 gear semi-automatic transmission. What oil is needed in the engine? Especially would I be interested, where do you get papers for it? Or do I have to use it to get new ones, if that is still possible. For the scrap the vehicle is defensively too bad, because it is still quite top there. Thank you for your efforts & answers.

  • Test drive K1200 GT

    Hello, first of all I want to say that I am currently still Yamaha fj 1200 driver, but am interested in a BMW. On Saturday I could drive the K 1200 GT and I have to say, I was surprised by the qualities. But now to the negative and my question. From 4000 unturns went a restlessness through the machine and at the handles and at the footrests was a vibration, which I did not like. The handle said that it is over after the 1000 km customer service. Who has also so Before you spend over 15000 euros, you want to know more about it. Thank you hennes588

  • Experience with R80GS ?

    Hello together, I would just be interested in what experiences you have made with above mentioned moped. My cow is year 1989 and since then I have driven only modest 85,000km. In addition to the “normal” wear parts I had so far the following defects: – 2x original spring leg (the third licks again) – starter – 2x carburettor membrane left, 1x right – gear outlet bearing at approx.80tkm (and I had the gearbox overhauled immediately) – both bearings of the Kardantunne lklinks rear – approx. every 2 years new gas trains and every 4 years new Choke trains – approx. every 4 years a new battery – steering head bearing at approx. 75tkm – clutch at approx. 50tkm The oil consumption is 0.25l/1000km. I gave the carburettors this winter for overhaul, because they could not be synchronized perfectly. Are these the usual repairs or did you have other experiences ? Greeting, rainman

  • Special engine oil for krads…?!

    Moinchen Männas, as I wrote some time ago, I have now bought a ZX 12 R, Model 04. So. The dealer, where I bought the machine, told me now to my astonishment that there must be special engine oil in it. Because of shear forces in the gearbox and so on. To the closer understanding: I have at home in the cellar certainly still at least 30 L in a liter-combined best mobile oil Syntetik oil, SAE 5W-40, API SJ/SF. So I imagine not to be quite so uneaten, because i I’ve also talked to specialists from the oil industry in detail. -I’s a really exciting topic, by the way. However, in the driver’s manual it says all API`s up to SJ funzen. Viscosity 10W-40. Good and beautiful, a 5W-40 oil covers this area. So it had to go without problems. Does anyone have any opinion about this? Could perhaps also help others who like me have always turned in good engine oil. In GSXR 1100, for example, also. What experiences do you have? Od He’s carrying your merchant what the boy means. I don’t care about the whole thing. As far as ersma. Until then and Tschö says Marcus

  • Three-phase generator BMW R80R / 1992

    Hi all BMW R80R / 1992 My electric power source has the part number Bosch 0 120 340 008. The type of generator is G1 – 14 V 10 / 17 A. That’s all there is to say. Too little juice. At least the instruction promises 20 ampères, but it obviously doesn’t bring it. Diode plate / windings / stator / rotor: everything has been checked and ok. Pathogen voltage has it too. Who knows whether there are stronger versions in the same place, or whether you have a stronger performance class under the “engine hood war t? The only upgrade to a government regulator with higher charging voltage is more damaging to the battery (strong gas in warm weather, despite temperature compensation). I want more juice if I need it (nebula headlights / full light / dipped light). Fact is today that already with dipped light (1 x 55W) the battery is slowly discharging. That can’t be it. BMW still offers heating grips on this motorcycle model. That would make the energy balance better without heating handles. Thanks for your further answer mopi50

  • US Import 997 TÜV/ DEKRA Room Stuttgart or Saarland, please recommend ????

    Hello together, I found nothing about the search so created new topic. I am happy owner of a used 997 S, bought from an official Porsche dealer in USA. Think to know all necessary conversion measures, but want to avoid in particular by an oversensitive examiner the two Xenon lamps because of lack of E sign, or even to exchange further nonsense on the car. Who has experience here and can a TÜV/DEKRA in the greater Stuttgart ode r Saarland recommend, who here accommodating and uncomplicatedly loses the car? Thank you for your answers. Michael

  • 987 S – Delimitation of the 3.2l and the 3.4l variants?

    Hello Porsche-Gemeinde, I plan with the start of the summer season possibly. the purchase of a used Boxster S! price range so around 40,000,-€ with as low mileage as possible and proper equipment. Therefore my question – to what extent do the two engine variants with 280hp and 295hp differ or are there model-specific peculiarities and peculiarities, which have to be considered during the purchase? And does this happen with the driving performances and consumption values according to your experience Is this also true for the 3.2? This brings me to the third part of my question: How important is the possibility that a Porsche guarantee can possibly be completed or extended when buying second-hand goods? This is always the subject of numerous offers. But somehow it bothers me a little bit that I seem to have a supposed KW. Onstruction error should additionally cover itself financially with almost 1,000,- €/year! Especially a possible replacement of the crankshaftsimmering once also not significantly more costs… Speak then such an insurance at all – or can there still other surprises lurk? I would be very pleased about your feedback. Greetz the OZ