Author: 00c12f

Hello together, I recently bought a 96 Volvo 850 relatively cheaply. Now I have the problem that it does not seem to turn off the ignition plus, i.e. radio, ventilation etc. Keep running. Also the lights of the climate or air valve continue to glow. In fact, it doesn’t always happen, but only feels after longer rides or when it’s warm. Maybe one of you has an idea what this might be Information about the Volvo: Volvo 850 Bj 96 2.4 10v 144 Ps Motor air conditioning (faith even air conditioning) Thank you and best regards!

Hello the rear windscreen wiper of my VOLVO 850 Bj 1996 did not work any more. Now I have dismantled everything, found that the shaft of the wiper was fixed but with thermal treatment and force the shaft got out, everything lubricated and greased and it moves again nicely, then on the steering wheel lever wiper turned on, engine does not move, motor is stuck, with 12 volt transformer a little at the soldering points power laid, nix, then a little WD 40 spriffed to the shaft zt and I then heard a little movement when voltage on orange and scratchy cable and the shaft moved also a little bit, now after a few hours I can not achieve this effect any more.!!!! Motor seems to be there or ? I can not actually believe that an engine is broken, fuse was also ok ?! In a workshop would be delivered to me a new engine for 160 Euro? Do you still have an idea how to get the engine running again? find if from the front current comes to the savvy engine? Thanks already

Hy, theme already purchased 100x, but always only type specific ect. Had about 10 years the original SportLevel suspension in the 99er/Mod.00 inside. It was actually always too hard for me, and thought already about 3 years ago to install a different chassis, but was not quite sure, so I had the front dampers and the level mats original renewed. The whole last year I wanted to change this finally, because in my opinion it is too hard for the “public” traffic. the route may be good and on the highway, it was only from 190 really comfortable. Strange, because Benz and Audi manage the balancing act between not every stone and yet handy at 250. Now I had KW inside and immediately out again, was only deluded, because nothing was right. Neither the technical information nor the driving behaviour, in the soft setting hops around that it is not reasonable and if you turn it harder, that the hopping goes away, it can be the K ronen out, even on the highway impracticable. Not to mention the optics, the rear springs too short etc. No matter the topic KW is done for me. Now the question, which manufacturer creates the balancing act between real comfort, and rich road position with higher splendour? At the TÜV I spoke with my speci and he told me that in Passau would be one who usually disassembled the suspensions of KW equally and provided with other springs ect., but is a little far away from me, and I would like to nich t times more have a screw of KW on the car. Had already so many cars with sports suspensions, and many were a dream, the first 1-3 cm have swallowed the progressive (channel cover ect.), but the car was Satt but not hard on the road. So this should be in my opinion. Shouldn’t be too deep, but with style, if you know what I mean, kindergarten is over. Koni suspension in yellow is also hard-adjustable, but how is this? The orange this is harder or softer ? In itself, Koni is such a hoppy story, which I remember. Thanks in advance to you. lg Jerry

One more question on this infinite topic: Since I can get original 16″ aluminium and I no longer drive so much, I wanted to upgrade my 850er to 205/55R16 all-year tires. 205/50er are not really possible because of the low offer with poor quality and then still high prices. Last week at the TÜV called if there is a chance to get the registered. After transmission of my key numbers 2.1 and 2.2 from the approval the answer was NO. I h From now on, the thick Volvo homologation description that has already been posted several times in the forum and the identical-looking table from the German Motor Transport Agency, where the type is in several places. Does the column “Version” in the middle refer to the beginning of the FIN of my car? Mine starts with YV1LW5106.. Does this mean that I really can’t? However, there is still the one-sided (here also already posted) manufacturer’s certificate in which the tire is also allowed, without restriction on certain “versions” except for the necessary steering limiters I have in it. Does anyone have any experience in convincing the TÜV with the note in my hand?

I drive a Volvo V70I, Bj.99, petrol, switch, 103kW, 145,000 Tkm and have light vibrations on the accelerator pedal, clutch pedal and the floor mat. Feels like the engine vibrations are passed over the body. I have already stoked here in the forum and replaced the following parts up to now. – both Hydro engine bearings (front and rear) – the large engine bearing on the right – moment strut between drive and engine – upper engine bearing a year ago (see still Before changing the bearings, the vibrations were a lot stronger and the engine itself moved a lot more during load changes and road unevenness. In my opinion, the causers were the front engine bearing and the engine bearing on the right side, which did not look good any more. The light vibrations as described above have remained, which I would like to eliminate. For tips at which point I could continue to look for the causer I would be very good. I can’t believe it.

Hello to all Unfortunately I found a lot of purchase advice in the SuFu, but not much about V70 R AWD Maybe you can put this together here. I’m not really talking about the V70 – specific things, but especially about the motor and R AWD components. Background is an offer for a 98 R AWD with 350Tkm. I’ve learned a lot over the last few years. However, there are still some questions, just about engine and powertrain. I know, at the AW D the ghosts separate. But I have formulated some questions. 1) Is there any maintenance to the four-wheel drive that should be in the checkbook? 2) Can one detect or hear any potential damage to the four-wheel drive? Are there any special features to be taken into account when buying? Someone said something about a “clonk” – noise when driving backwards. 3) Can one convert an AWD “just like that” to the FWD and what does that mean in terms of work, operating permit (registration) and returns 4) What is the difference between an engine of the normal T5 (239hp) and that of an R (250hp)? 5) What about the cost of maintenance and repair? Is this moving at the level of a C70 Coupe? Keyword: AWD hurts in the wallet 😉 6) Are there other R-characteristics that should be taken into account when buying? I already thank you for your help. Well then….

Hi Volks, I have a big problem here and hope that it’s not about the topic of “complete dashboard removal”. As can be seen in the picture, comes from the heater?? below a hose out – you can see coolant running out there. Even with the supply air you can smell coolant. Can it be that there is only a bit clogged there or is it actually the bad topic “heat exchanger leaking”? But no matter what it is – I have to do it. Only a little simple would be nicer 😉 Many greetings e Tom

Hy, so since my engine renewal it’s going really well. BSR 1 and other little things are on it. But not the better LLK and possibly the better downpipe incl. exhaust. Nevertheless, I noticed today that he can not only keep up with a Porsche Cayenne S, but could even overtake it to the right. The Porsche has always tried it, and always it was certainly too weak (not much but still). That can’t be what I thought, the S is the stronger model that I did. or is that in the 2.5+ tons league ? But that he has bitten so many times has surprised me. What would have happened if Stage 4 had been under my hood ? Well, anyway again a nice day that my old Volvo has given me 🙂

Colleagues, I really like my C70 and I’m really grateful to Volvo and TWR for creating this, my favorite vehicle. But for testing the oil level of the automatic transmission, the engineers of Volvo still belong today….. Does anyone have a trick here as to how to get to the trackstick somehow humanely reasonable? Make change or something? With hot engine you risk burns and injuries, you need snake hands and fingers. It’s best to get three hands to keep the hoses out of the way and at the same time somehow get into the depth of the engine compartment. Such a Murk. It had to be said that I changed the ATF on weekends and washed through. That’s basically everything simple (if you don’t confuse the hoses and first you can pump ATF free and clean it). It’s also nice to see that there’s really a dark broth coming out). But I’m just shocked at the position of the track rod. ….