MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Request for short advice for V70 III 2.5T

    Moin. I’m an absolute Volvo newcomer and I’m looking for a “daily” that has to stand out at the moment. He would mostly drive more short distance, so I say 5-40 km each way. Of course he’ll get a track, but not so often. So I guess that’s better there’s a petrol truck. I found a V70 06/2009 2.5T 200hp automatic 230,000km momentum. Since I have no idea about Volvo completely, I want to ask on this way, if this is a reliable car, or if I If the internet is right, is it a true Volvo 5 cylinder, is it the stability? The automatic should not be sooo great, but there are few switches to be found. From my own painful experience I ask for rust, should it not be the subject in general, what does the swarm knowledge mean? Are there things that need special attention during the visit? Used car consultant.de mentions: Steering gearbox (how do I find it?) Track rod heads, Hi nterachsquerlager, brake pads, level control, BLIS, Klimkompressoren (OK, I can find that 🙂 Then some more calls, how do I know if they were made? Many questions, but I come from the BMW country and to Sweden is a long way away… 🙂 Thank you, Greetings

  • Brake caliper V70

    Hello all, I have a V70 D3 Bj2015. My caliper HL is fixed, so it will be replaced. I had to completely renew before the rear brake discs and pads anyway. I had already ordered brake discs (full/massive) and pads. At the moment, however, ventilated brake discs are in there, I only noticed that now. the question is, if I now use the thinner brake discs/massive (thickness approx.11 mm), I need other brake calipers? are apparently suitable for massive or ventilated brake discs, or doesn’t it matter? Thanks and Best regards

  • 1. Camera flickered/twitched – 2. Oil quantity

    Recently the picture of my RFC has often twitches in the picture. Did you have that already? Have concerns that there is already something expensive coming up again…. and still what that comes to my mind even if it is a completely different topic: since last year during the inspection less oil is filled in with me – the last bar in the display does not light up from the beginning. On request my shared with me that from VCC the instruction came to fill in with the D5 engines a little less oil, otherwise the message “too much oil” or something like that can light up. Needless to mention that of course the full 5.8 liters are still billed there is something about it or just moneymaking?

  • Long-term experience XC70 (or also V70) from MJ2015 Gasoline

    Moin together, Since the pension is within reach, I want to buy an XC70 from MJ15 (i.e. from mid-2014 delivery). I had the XC70 BJ2016 D4. That was my best car ever next to the 940 station wagon. However, I have only been allowed to drive the XC70 for 3 years (company car) that a long-term diagnosis was not possible. Unfortunately, there are also few test reports on this model. However, since I will not drive much in retirement, it should definitely be a petrol tanker The questions about this – What diseases do I have to pay special attention to with the XC70/V70 from the BJ? – What mileage have you achieved so far with this model? I read here in reports 330tkm and more. What were there of extraordinary defects? – what does it look like with spare parts? How long can/will Volvo deliver the still buw there have been problems here with you? – What else do I have to pay attention to? I have read this for examplehttps://www.motor-talk.de/…/…it-dem-v70-2-4d-mj-2010-t7203445.htmlhttps://www.motor -talk.de/…/…chstellen-beratung-kauf-t7014402.html Thanks to everyone who answers me! LG and a nice Christmas time Tom

  • Purchase decision Volvo V60 D6 PIH

    Hello, hope someone can expertly advise me whether a V60 D6 is worth for me personally. I’m Volvo absolutely faithful and will stay it too. At the moment I drive the V70 D4 181 Ps (4cylinder VEA) EZ Nov 16 now 39TKM on average so combined with 5.8 liters. Since I’m a therapist and come daily to the 100 km. While 50% land and 50% inside. I’m not yet completely convinced of PIH technology. In the meantime, charging at the workplace does not go .. On my roof lies an 8 .5 KWP PV system. However, I’m rarely home to sunshine. In the home town there is free charging station of a power provider 10 min walk (if I’m going to park my car. Rather not!) Would that ever be allowed to stand there all night every day?! To the question what does the PIH consume in my driving profile if I’m traveling sparingly? What would you say. And how much km do you get in hybrid mode actually until only the diesel runs … or does it manage the car sic h to recharge again and again. In order to drive efficiently in the hybrid since the batteries are always fully charged. Or managed the car that also quite well by recuperation? What cost me a day compared to my current diesel. 0.25 € per KWh. (can any heat pump tariffs get, or actually need a:-) ? what interests me also and what I lack with the V70 is all-wheel drive. How well does the AWD of the V60 D6 work to slip a boat and get out again can I see the system similar to the Haldex? Can I go up to 150 KM/H that I already know is okay ….) The desired D6 is a used 22tkm and 2 years old this time.

  • What’s on the left in the dashboard?

    Maybe someone knows well-known/suspicious places…? Have a frequently occurring annoying snoring in the dashboard since long ago, left of the instrument block, approximately behind/under the left air nozzle. It occurs partly when driving (by uneven ground conditions), but sometimes also in idle, due to the vibration of the engine as “resonance noise” at different volume levels. If I press there in the left area (no matter where) in any direction slightly or The “Ruck” when starting the diesel usually causes a proper “cracker” that you almost get scared (that almost sounds like something is breaking) When I put pressure on the dashboard, I can also provoke the sound myself. I wanted to get to the bottom of it now, but I found no source. Despite the tried-and-tested driving without dashboard covers and instrument block. I tried sillikonspray from all possible directions, even through the screw hole in the spray wall – without success! Unfortunately I can’t get away the air channel of the left air nozzle behind the tacho, which takes the access and the view exactly to the place where I suspect the knarz source. I also can’t get very well from below. What else can I try, and how can I remove the air channel without destroying it? Thanks e search

  • Ciao – Happy birthday

    After 2 Phaetons, 2 years V6TDI and 9 years W12, for me the end of this phase is reached. In particular the first years were impressive. After about 15 years in this forum I experienced practically all 6 phases up close (see https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…one-contribution-to-1-4-t1776472.html?…) One of my highlights was the joint visit of the glass factory with other forum members and the production of the last Phaeton (still have the ‘forbidden’ ‘ Photo with the wreath on the bonnet) wishes the remaining Phaeton lovers continued much joy and above all a good spare parts supply!

  • Cylinder head gasket?

    Hello, I recently had a cooler damage with cooling liquid loss. Before I could replace it, another driver was on the road without noticing that hardly or probably almost no cooling liquid was in the system. Only when it smelled after burning oil it was noticed. So the engine was heavily overheated. I now changed the cooler and first pretended nothing had happened. Shortly afterwards he lost cooling liquid over the now loaded balancing tank. Have a new one now, but I’m sure it’s pushing exhaust gas into the cooling system. Now my question…the engine is made of aluminum, do you think it’s only going to be the cylinder head gasket or did the engine take more damage? I’m thinking about repairing it in my own direction. Would I like to hear something from you on the subject.

  • 850 – only warm air on the driver’s side

    For the last week only warm air comes from the driver-side ventilation nozzles. The regulation is almost zero, no matter what position. When I start the climate, cold air comes from the middle nozzle, from the outer nozzles undiminished warm air. If I close the outer nozzles, the air gets warmer in the middle. On the passenger side everything controls 100%. As a fault I get the error 321 ” damper for driver-side temperature controllers too long I had already removed and replaced the valve control motor before. But nothing broke. The motor rotates in the developed state without any problems. In the built-in state one hears a buzzing when the temperature is set higher. If it is placed smaller, it regulates the jerky down. I guess, if it takes too long, the error comes 321. Currently I am with my Latin at the end. Also the merciless temp. regulation when the climate is switched on is not really possible for me. lar. Why does cold air come from the middle and there is air outside? What does the whole mechanism for the flap adjusters look like at all. The whole thing is certainly installed in the plastic housing. Does anyone have an idea?

  • The ideal commuter Volvo up to 10,000,- Euro

    Hello everybody, I am currently looking for a Volvo (nothing else – my 87 740 limo makes me happy again and again) for max. 10,000,- Euro. Important to me are the following things: – plan to drive it at least 4-5 years. At about 30,000km per year this makes up for max. 150,000km, which the Swede should reliably accompany me. – Reliability and durability (especially on the motor side) plays a big role, even more than the consumption costs – the pure Ver the less, the better of course the following cars are suitable for me: – Volvo C30 with the 1.6 diesel – I like it very much, consumption can probably be reduced with my rather defensive driving method to about 5 liters. Maintenance for DPF. With the budget a 2008er with about 80.000km would be possible, I think. However, I am still a bit skeptical about the PSA engine. (e.g. http://suche.mobile.de/…/158322085.html? Origin=PARK) – Volvo C30 with 1.8F – then convert it to LPG. Probably less consumption than the 2.4, but this is a Ford engine. or directly with LPG: http://suchen.mobile.de/…/180265099.html?… – Volvo S60 with the 2.4 (140hp) – with little KM from well-kept (rentner) hand, and then convert it to LPG for approx. 2.300,- Euro (e.g. the one here: http://suchen.mobile.de/…/180213097.html?…) – Volvo S40 with the same engine (2.4 170hp) – also with little KM from 2004-2006 and then convert it to LPG. e.g. http://suchen.mobile.de/…/175807698.html?… – Volvo S60 with 2.4D (163PS?) – with approx. 100,000 KM and possibly DPF. Removing the remaining budget for repairs… (e.g. http://suchen.mobile.de/…/179538915.html?…) As you can see, there are still many options and I’m still torn back and forth. I like the C30 best (but the pre-facelift design), followed by S40 and S60. Is the S60 (assuming the same year of construction as S40) the more solid car (una) Does it make sense to convert a 2.4 5-cylinder to gas instead of a small diesel? Is the 1.8F a good alternative to the 2.4? With the budget different years of construction are possible for the types (C30 2008/2009 – S60 2003-2006 – S40 2004-2007) – should this play a big role in the purchase? Thank you in advance for your answers and help!