MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Engine does not start after LiMa exchange

    Hello together, I have problems with my 850. The engine doesn’t want to start any more, but I think it’s because of the electronics. I just get together what happened so far: – car was put in a barn over the winter, battery forgot to shut down – before turning it off it still drove in from its own drive – now in the summer battery dead, therefore car bridged – while bridging there were violent sparks of the crowd and the LiMa started to smoke when the engine was trying start – battery outside of the car charged and tried again, but everything was dead – LiMa removed, let measure –> Diodes burned through – new LiMa pure, battery jammed and see there, the interior lighting works again – ignition key turned, engine does not want to start, but starter is addressed – then again with power-powered booster tried, same result – cockpit shows nothing at all. If I set on ignition, should have some status lights on dive, but everything is dark. – fuses are all possible, at least in the fuse box in the engine compartment (there may be another one?) Does anyone have any idea how I could proceed here to narrow down the problem? Best regards Jonas

  • Warning light coolant level – engine overheated

    A few weeks ago, my 850er was replaced by the balancing tank, because the old one had a crack, some coolant was repeatedly pushed out of the lid of the tank. After that everything seemed fine, I reported about it … now I have problems again and despair so slowly During a drive of about 20 km on the highway the warning light for the coolant lit. After immediate control on the side strip I could not discover any loss, everything seemed All right, so that I continued the journey. Arriving at the finish line, shortly before the engine was turned off, the lamp went on again, then Qualmen, at the level of the compensation tank, came to it. I opened the bonnet and was to see that the tank was filled to the top, the coolant was pushed out. Again to the info: This is an AT engine, which I had only installed in the Volvo last year…. in the traffic jam the temperature always goes quite fast to the top n, never in the red area, before the fan jumps on. I called the “yellow man” who wanted to give me after a rather short inspection to understand that he could not discover anything that would prevent me from continuing my journey. On the trip home nothing happened, everything good… In the past days I had no problems anymore, but I was only traveling in the city. Today then, after about 20 km and back, the same problem. Just before I arrived home like the warning light, the temperature remained constant, … in the carport I ran the car to see what happened, when the fan started. As the pointer moved towards the red area, the coolant rose in the balance tank…. I expected the fan to sprang up, that it did, but only for 2-3 seconds, then it suddenly went out, the temperature continued to rise, the coolant filled almost the entire container. The fan only jumped up again when i ch the Volvo made up, because the situation became too difficult for me, clearly too late, the coolant has been squeezed out again again the ZKD defective??? Or maybe just a problem of the fan, or just a leak in the cooling circuit…. I am totally depressed and perplexed!!! In my workshop of trust I will probably not come with the Volvo any more, which is 85 km away and I doubt strongly that the Volvo will be happy about your opinions and tips…. Greetings Ela

  • Volvo V70 I, threshold right, rusting – sad picture

    Hello for now. I’m new here, but I’ve been reading with you for a long time. I’m driving a Volvo V70 I, BJ 1997, 2.4 106/144. As the friend, as you call it, pointed out to me that I should keep an eye on the right threshold in the height of the rear seat, I did that last weekend. I almost lost my eyes. But look for yourself. I would like to know your serious opinions on this. Is that still to be saved? In addition, the supposed third part, i.e. inside, has already set rust. A slightly more recent photo after coarse rust removal will be enough. I had not thought about it any more, but will probably come soon. Incidentally, there was still puff pastry over the hole before and would be tenderly removed with hammer and screwdriver. Thank you very much for your time and effort. Best regards Frank.

  • aLWR sensor at the front defective?

    Actually everything is good on my Omega. At least now I have enough spare parts in the garage. (see signature). But apparently my omi got wind of it and now wants to get as many fresh genes as possible implanted. After an unsightly trip into a snowweed the other day my horn and my sensor for the light range regulation has said goodbye. Now, however, I do not want to put myself under the car in the weather and start the big crafting. ung “Luminous driving light” flashes up again and again depending on the load condition, outside temperature and driving condition and disappears again. Especially the message comes when braking and in right turns. If the car is fully occupied it also stays at times permanently. In the stand at the traffic light however, I already have an unmotivated up and untapped of the headlights, without the message is there. From this I now conclude that there is no mechanical problem on the sensor, but rather a wobble contact on the plug? Am I right? How the sensor works mechanically is clear to me, but what is it electric? Is it a simple potentiometer or is there a lot of electronics in it? Can I somehow kill it to take care of it intensively in better weather?

  • change omega b X20XEV ignition coil

    hy so I now have the following problem and although if I give in empty run gas up to 6000 turns then my car consumes 6,7 liters and as soon as I have the first walk inside and slowly start driving so around the 10 km/h then he shows me 39 liters to my colleague thinks that the round coil defective that has it ignite now my question I have to pay attention to something when I build out the

  • Omega b mv6 3.0 just goes nciht more to everything tried

    Hello friends Now after a long break I have a serious problem I drove with my treasure about 49km only highway then I set my sister at home and drove the way back then I noticed on the highway that the car nciht more runs like this and zack went on the mkl and then also 10sec. later again. then 5 min later (still AB) the car went off. and also immediately again on. my sweat I felt already on the whole body 😉 I went down and stood at the ampel car d ann OFF. I waited until green was tried to make and he went to I had driven on yes only 5 km to at home then I stood again at a traffic light 300m from the house auso went out and nciht again to I pushed him right to the cemetery (do not want to leave him there) and had him to tow away later to home. have been looking here in the forum for possible misplaced then the KWS woken up but did not bring anything my relay for the pump bridged (p umpe ran) but also did not bring anything also changed immediately my exhaust gas return valve since I took it off (wound) now I have read out the errors it resulted following 12 19 53 73 74 now a question if the lmm is defective the car goes on then at all ? because I have now tried so much the car goes on but it sounds as if it is on a cylinder and quassi only shortly before drinking is so it is not really going to drive at all what could it be in order to help I would have been pleased I have not driven for almost a week now and just stare stupidly into the engine room pure love greetings

  • Volvo V70 I, 2.5 144 HP – Rugging in stand & at partial load – Need urgent HELP

    Hello together It’s about my Volvo V70 I, EZ 1997, 2.5 144 hp automatic (MKB B5252S) which in the stand as well as with partial load does not bring the complete performance and (feeling?) only runs on 4 pots. I had bought it at the beginning of the year, it still ran perfectly. First it started with jerks at the traffic light (only D & P, not in N). Smelling then it became worse, so that at some point he not only jerked in the stand but also when accelerating. I have already read all the threads on this topic (and there is a lot of of of them) and have already done all kinds of things, so far unfortunately without success. Now the ideas go out and I’m coming up and I’m not going to be able to do anything else. I’m not going to be able to do anything, but I’m not going to be able to do anything, and I’m not going to be able to do anything, so I’m not going to be able to do anything. The worst thing: we wanted to go to Spain next Sunday with it. You are my last hope. Unfortunately, it is very urgent and our holiday is in danger of falling into the water. I would like to list briefly what has been tested or replaced so far: ignition completely new: cable, candles, distributor, fingers & ignition coil –> Everything checked several times in the dark as well as with water (spray mist) – i.e. –> The candles are all deer brown, except for the 1st from the left, which was quite bright. the exchange (see injection nozzle below) now looks similar to all others. Black was or is not a candle. Coolant.-Temp. sensor: tested & i. O. Lambdasonde: tested & i. O. camshaft sensor: tested & i. O. DK incl. flame screen and all sounds cleaned – i. O. 1. injection nozzle v. left (looking from the front) replaced, because probably was no longer in order. Unfortunately also without success – runs like ever – bad! Errors were read out several times (OBD II plug however) – no errors stored overpressure hoses are all connected and sealed (tested). These can also be excluded. I still suspect that it is due to the ignition, but can not say it with certainty. The car smells like unburnt fuel. A thick mass cable from the battery to the engine block below was broken. I replaced this with a new one. Problem still exists. It may be that this means that the STG has a low pressure hose. Does anyone have another tip on what I can check or test? Thank you in advance!

  • Omega B

    Hello dear community. I have asked you a couple of times. 1.I could get an omega b limo. 2.Bj:1995 100 kw 175 tkm. 3.innen nicer condition. 4.Heckrollo electric. MÄNGEL. 1.If you make the blinker lever up or down no blinker goes, I make the warning system go on all. 2. He has another month Tüv 3. Both doors at the back rust coach clean only the rear doors. So that was the fun should cost 450 Euro. Ohja he has a 2.0 ECO engine are the what Thank you for the answers.

  • LED tuning … problem with switch polarity

    the time I found the color of the switches and the shower unit in the cockpit a bit boring and old, so I thought that I put bright white LEDs in place of the old pears. I started with the switch for the seat heating and already the first problem. the LED lights up, looks also very nice, but the pear that lights orange when the switch is pressed no longer burns. how it looks everything is quite complicated. has someone d a circuit diagram of the switches? I suspect that the two pears share a pole. it may even be that they are only switched, however, via one pole, because they shine in both directions. anyway, the blue hold with the two pears at three points of current. I simply soldered the LED at the two points of the pear. can it be that the LED pulls the mass of the other pear? I have no ideas anymore. the other orange pear should be dr. stay in. it’s not broken or anything. it has to be interrupted somewhere in the blue hold the current supply. the switch itself works because I tested the lock with the pears from the other switch of the seat heater. where did I make the mistake when soldering?

  • Co-value too high, ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————–

    Hello, I was with my X20SE Bj.95, 293 000km to the HU/AU. HU ok, AU failed because of too high co-value. here the data (from the AU expression): CO: 4,787% CO corre. (4-stroke): 4,820% HC: 271 O2: 2,59% Lambda: 0,969 error codes: 74 73 45 31 Cat is about 1 year old. MKL lights up permanently. Goes out only once in a while during thrust operation and only then jerks it off neatly. ARV (or AGR) is shut down (with thin sheet) I hope that’s enough data to give me a tip on how to get the grandma through the AU bri Nge. Thank you for your efforts.