MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Subsequent disc tinting & Automatic blinding of the interior mirror

    Hello, I recently bought a Volvo V60 and would like to let the windows sound with this one. Can you tell me if this can cause problems with the correct function of the automatically blinding interior mirror or the two exterior mirrors? Also I am still unsure about the tint of the foil. Basically I want a very dark tint film, so that one can not see from the outside so easily in the vehicle, but on the other side you should also “or can you tell me what degree of tint the work side disc tint has or what would you recommend to take from me? Love greetings firebb

  • BREMSE RUBBELT – OMEGA 2.0 16 V 100 kW, EZ 1996

    Hello, yes, please read first, then if necessary (not) complain. I bought Omega-Limo a few days ago, of which I knew that the breme rubs. I built the we brake v apart and cleaned everything and provided it with paste. I noticed: 1. Both pistons are smooth-running, the rubber seals are ok. 2. The sliding pins of the saddle on the driver’s side could be screwed in massively bad again, the first courses of the winch of the bolts as well as the brake saddle carrier totally ve The saddle seems to sit tight, but what it does with the braking forces is different. 3. The MINTEX coverings have rubbed the discs tw. only 50 % bare, the rest is rusted, but it also has to be removed somehow 4. Rubbing seems to come from the driver’s side, where the winches are, see above. Question therefore to the professional world: applies my consideration that the defective winches of the glide pins or the brake saddle carrier is the cause for the There are experiences with MINITEX surfaces. They are supposed to come from Textar. How is the defective, unequal grinding effect between surfaces and discs to explain? I’ve had tens of cars, but I’ve never had anything like that before and as the forum shows, it’s similar to other people. Know the braking problems of the cadet E, but not one. The rubbing seems to be a disease of the omega B. Thanks in advance.

  • No power supply despite new charged battery

    Hello together, I am completely on the hose and hope you have some ideas for me. Last (extended) weekend I was on my way and my volvo S40 2.0D and he drove without problems. To the way 250km (Do.). Friday and Saturday I drove routes of 30km without any starting difficulties. When I wanted to drive home Sunday, I could not even unlock the car with the radio remote control. The battery in the key was not, because even after manual closing it I thought the battery was over and called the ADAC. When I waited, I noticed that someone had taken the front left flank of my frog apron with me when I parked. In this accident escape, a park sensor was properly sanded off and the headlight glass also had a jump. I didn’t think about anything further at the moment. The ADAC finally had enormous problems to bridge the car. After 20 minutes he was finally on and we were able to drive the 250 km home. I ordered a new battery and installed it on Wednesday afterwards. The car jumped on 1 A and I went shopping. Everything no problem, but 3 days later I wanted to drive again on Friday and again the car is completely dead. Now I have removed the battery again to charge it and save it from the dead. But the charger ze I had ordered a multimeter to make further measurements. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be? The old battery could have been over because of its age. But why is the new betterie not empty and yet the car is dead? And why could I drive right after the installation and not now? At first I thought it was just the battery, then I thought, a quiet consumer, but now I’m completely perplexed!!! Maybe you have experienced something similar or have had experiences with it. Thank you for your help! LG

  • V50 2.0D jerks lightly

    Hello, after an extensive retreading I finally registered my Ez:11/2007 V50 2.0 diesel with 136 hp 2 weeks ago. Fz. ran 168,000 km. Unfortunately he jerks in the partial load range, if you drive e.g. at 30 or 50 km/h through a place and just keep the speed. History: Old engine was fixed and so I bought the V50. NoWe broke off the HD pump and the chunks have jammed the crankshaft. Now Citroën C5 motor with 170 tkm inside. Tooth belts, Wapu, Coupling, all seals, particle filters, 4x injectors etc. new. Runs top! Ruckles however. After commissioning: At the beginning the “normal” error search me- game,?? after such a large heart surgery.?? 1)AGR – error. AGR exchanged for a new quality and cleaned everything. Error away. 2)HFM error. HFM changed for used. Error fixed 3)Particle filter error with FIS error: motor system maintenance required. DDS exchanged and wires blown through. New Psrtikelfilter montie 4)Additive system error. Additively replenished and level reset. Error away. Conclusion: All errors searched, found and fixed. No more errors are displayed but it still jerks! After the new injectors were installed, the jerking decreased by approx. 70-80%. A small remainder has remained however. As described above. Has nothing to do with regeneration. Currently consumption remains at approx. 3-5 l/100 km. I still have the HD pump in the verd 8. Filters have been re-made. Air is no longer in the system if you do not have a small bubble in the transparent line. Does anyone have a tip for me? Thanks Greetings Thorsten

  • Fan problem again

    I have already used the search, but have found little to my problem than yesterday 26 degrees outside were u I with climate for, my temperature indicator went into the red area. I immediately hit the eco button and it went under 100 degrees. today I drove with hanger to Kiel. always so between 100 u 110 km/h. my temperature went often to 100 degrees and then rapidly down to 95 degrees. think that the rear fan ran. I looked today. my fans in front of the cooler go both at 95 straight on, only the behind the cooler did not. I took off the plug from the 3 pole thermoswitch. the rear fan ran and when I moved into the other direction, the two front fans went on. can it be that the thermoswitch is defective or a relay for the 1st stude is defective. I last changed my vdd on the front side. did I forget to connect my plug? my cooler is 2 years old. if I make my omega out, l on both front fans u a pump front left with. if I use the pins 1 u 6 from the lian plug bridge in the relay box in the engine room, the rear fan will also run. what can it be? it is an omega b caravan v6 ez 03/98 with automatic transmission, automatic air conditioning, po heating, plant navi

  • Sensible before the LMM

    Wish you all Happy Easter! Hello, have a little question. My engine runs modestly, so round. But if I pull the small plug from the part, before the LMM (near air filter box) then it runs normally ? Can the part be defective or dirty ?

  • FEHLER during the expansion of the automatic air conditioning system

    HELP…. I made a mistake when expanding the automatic air conditioning system for Birnchen wecksel. Had all the necessary screws turned out but it was still fixed on top. I read here in the forum that you have to pull through the radio shaft still on a kind of lever to solve the aperture. Have unfortunately pulled out this metal strut, which hangs completely behind the wall. For what is this and how can I get it back in??

  • Drive shaft screw away !!!!

    Hello people, was brave today and hope that there is no more snow. So I pulled up the summer slurps. And now it comes: On the driver side is in the ANTI-FREE NO SEMI-FRAUD MORE !! How can this be ??????????????????, but the Volvo cover cap was on it, this screw can not just be lost like that ?????? Therefore now some very important questions: 1.Can I drive DANGEROS? Probably I drive already tens of thousand kilometers in this condition 2. If I now the S 3. I have already found suit torque via SUFU, but what does e.g. 25 NM plus 90° mean? 4. Which screws should I take, old version 30714151, or 30714142, which should probably be the “new” one, but probably is not clear if those are only for the AWD? 5. I have already for some time when inserting the first gear in the stand a clear clack. The friendly has diagnosed the clutch , which was also my guess. Can it be that it is due to the missing shraube ? I thank everyone in advance for the quick help ! makeve …. … leaves the elk now rather in the garage …

  • Exchange of door rubbers useful?

    Moin, was surprised that I have not found this in the SuFu yet My elk (V70 D5 EZ 02) now has 257 tkm down. For some time now it is a bit louder than at the beginning of our “relationship” (at 135 tkm) or as a new car. Well on my second car it does not reach by far At the driver and passenger door the door rubbers are no longer ok. In the upper area (to the back door) they are definitely broken. Can someone tell me about the cost of the rubbers? And what else I still have more interested, does it really bring a lot or has the engine also increased in volume over time and contributes to the larger part? There are just loud driving noises that disturb when cruising.

  • Omega A Caravan VA deeper ?

    Hello, I don’t like the shape of the Omega A Caravan anymore and a sports suspension is just too expensive for me. The Weitec Spring Distance Kit (HA) has failed due to the driving behavior of the combination. Is it allowed (TÜV,etc.) to lower the VA and leave the HA in its original condition? If this is a common practice, I would like to ask for advice on spring and shock absorber modification.