Author: 00c12f

moin i was my car at the tüv, he didn’t pass the au because the value in the empty run was vieeeeel too high. now the tüvprüfer suspected that one of the two lambda probes did not work properly. we had already suspected this, but first tried other things (empty driver exchanged against another used etc.). now the tüvprüfer explained to me that one could check the function of the lambda probe with a current meter, one had to keep the hold two sensors to the corresponding places and then look what the probe does, or if it does anything at all. maybe someone has a link/pdf with a guide where you have to look exactly? so where the probes are sitting, where you have to put the sensors etc. was another consideration in turn, which might not be right with the temperature (also there we shconmal thought, because the inside room does not get really warm anymore). but what a replacement part bra What do I have to look for? the achmanschette at the front right is also broken, now I had called at scanimport and they wanted to know from me whether the inner or the outer. if one looks outside grease grease, then is it the outer one?

Hello guys, I have to cover the chassis of my 850 before this spring. He should get: In the back new springs the dampers are already! In the front the new springs and dampers are supposed to give the rest looks good and now to my question. Should I change all the parts proposed by Skndix? here the link:https://www.skandix.de/…/ Screws and nuts is clear. I just have a poltern on the front right anyway and the upper damper bearing doesn’t look so fresh anymore. or all because I don’t touch everything three times or first break it up then buy and wait and then screw it up again. And the components have what it looks like 223 thousand kilometers down. I think I can do everything. Do you have tips for me? Don’t want to sink the coal without any use either. So for tips I would be very grateful to you. With kind regards and calm Easter Christian

Day love community I have to fill myself with your knowledge. As the hand brake rope Thread briefly mentions, my rear tires are totally in the bucket. Coming: Purchase of the car in September with 4x new tires – the glue was even still on the rear. My steering wheel was not exactly standing then. But because it didn’t bother me very much, I only had the track set in December to get the steering wheel straight. Now I changed the hand brake rope last week. The tires still look like new – seriously, you might think you drove 50 meters with the tires. Unfortunately, that’s just outside. Inside the tires are TOTAL down! (about 2 cm from the outside seen inwards) I’m afraid that soon the draht will come out. I don’t know how I could miss it. Well, my question. What is axle measurement? (From here read something about it in the forum, but can’t find it anymore) And, is that an un un Different drivers from the “Set Track”? Otherwise any tips on what this could be?

Hello together, In the SuFu I did not find exactly such a mistake. With my V70 the door lock for all 4 doors does not work properly any more. If I untie several times, the actuator moves after 2-3 times not enough to push the pin completely up or down.https://youtube.com/shorts/JE8uB454sGA$ When I wait a few minutes, the same from the front again When it is very hot outside, it is not possible at all. t: The first successfully unlocked peak 500mA The second time he did it with unlocking: peak 400mA After that, the peak sank by 80mA-100mA with every attempt Since it occurred at all 4 doors at the same time, I don’t think the actuators are defective. What could be the problem here? Thanks & Greetings Karim

Hello people. As in an old thread of mine the theme was, there was the phenomenon of the spongy and unsafe steering clearly the right axial joint. That hung like yesterday my spaghetti from the fork. That I finally managed to build it up made me quite happy. Only I thought again about the suit torque. I had got an axial joint tool for it. I read here a little bit about 70 NM. But apparently this referred to the Spursta. ngenkopf, which didn’t exactly emerge from the text. For the track rod head I still had the 70 in my head. Well, now everything is assembled and beautiful, Aaaaber: Can it be that the axial joint gets 100 Nm?! What am I doing? Everything from the beginning? Thanks already for a few suggestions.