Hello everybody, after my V70II T5 somehow only bothers me, I would be interested in a more modern and “simple” engine without a turbo. Unfortunately only the 2.0 comes into question with the IIIer. I have already read that the engine of Ford and is supposed to be quite sluggish, is both true? Can one drive the engine nevertheless many kilometers without big zigzags? Last question: Who drives nen 2.0 and has had already had a trailer on it? Does the engine do that halfway? Many greetings from the Swede
Author: 00c12f
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Callback V70 – who knows more?
My V70 has to go to the workshop immediately! Quotation: “As part of quality controls, a limited number of vehicles of the V70 series of the model years 2011 to 2015 have been found that under certain specific driving conditions (roads with heavy load, high acceleration or high driving speed), an increased engine temperature can occur immediately after cold start and at cold outside temperatures. The increased engine temperature can lead to an oil loss, a smoke development and a fire development in the engine compartment.” Does anyone know more? I found nothing about the search function. Are only the T4 or the gasoline engines affected in general? Or does it also affect the diesel? Will you report yourself when I have had the appointment. P.S. Since I just got a new power shift transmission a few months ago, the letter was quite suffocatingly commented by the OHL: “You h a great touch when buying your car”. But the Volvo has to show its strengths.
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XC60 D3 Summum FWD with 163hp, automatic, more than 200tkm recommended?
Relatively young (2012), a lot of long distance, well and regularly maintained at Volvo, good condition, great equipment. The dealer sells it on behalf of the customer. The XC60 has been nice to me for a long time, except for the high mileage fits everything. But can I drive the still 3-4 years and a good 100,000km further? Also mainly long distance. I am a bit unsure, what do the experts say here? I am happy about tips, experiences, hints! Greetings from Alexander The Ruhrpott
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Purchase advice XC60
Moin together, I am looking for an XC60 – D3 or D4. Hope I am right here – the forum for purchase advice seems to be very general. My desired profile: – D3, D4 – switch or automatic – leather – up to max. 60.000 km – Navi, etc. – BJ gladly starting from FL 2014 – if necessary also 2013 – Budget: approx. 18.500 Can I find something reasonable with the budget – or would that be more lucky thing? Have found this for example:https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Border, but a good ?!?! price. Or is the D3 with 150hp and Euro6 the better choice? Will the XC drive at least 4-5 years with about 20tsd KM/year. Thank you… Greetings from the North Frank
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Strange behaviour after AGR and throttle cleaning
After some research I wanted to do something good for my MJ2009 Volvo V70 2.4 D Ocean Race 163PS and clean the intake channels a bit. The reason for this was the sporadic bagging of the speed when rolling out and braking before traffic lights at idle speed to approx. 500 rpm-1. Only after complete standstill the speed then increases again to approx. 750 rpm-1. I dismantled the throttle flap and cleaned it with Liqui Moly Diesel system cleaner. I have to say that I have such an aggressive Without advertising, I was very surprised by the effect. So I was able to bring the throttle flap back to high gloss in the developed condition and reassemble it with the old metal seal. In the same train I dismantled the LMM and cleaned it with a brake cleaner, as far as I got there despite the lattice. I cleaned the AGR valve in the built-in condition with cleaner and toothbrush as far as possible. I was able to fix this with a self-made clamp (similar to a threaded clamp for sheet metal or flat plastics) in a clean and freely movable manner. I thought that this error should not occur with the engine any more, as it was optimized? Then the car was driven to operating temperature and half LiquiMoly stuff was sprayed into the air system after the LMM at increased speed. Together with the fuelling of the Fzg. with Diesel Ultimate, I hardly recognize the Volvo. It gains increasing power, especially on the track beyond the 120km/h. So far – so good. Now to the problem: If I want to accelerate from the slightly underrun partial load for a overtaking process or e.g. after the end of a 70km/h limit, the engine unfolds at exactly 80km/h, whether in 5th or 6th gear at about 1500 rpm-1 after a short turbo memory customer, for me until It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. When recording with a cheap OBDII device and a smartphone app, it is noticeable that the airflow increases with increasing acceleration and then suddenly falls back to a constant value of 40 (I don’t know the unit now) at the moment of the “emergency run” until the emergency run is out again. Another clean-up after about 1 week with the other half of the LM cleaner took place outside of A little more power no change of the error. Apparently the stuff seems to solve something really, because during the process the car then reported that the DPF was full. A half-hour cleaning drive at higher speeds allowed the error to be extinguished again. Also the reset of the ECUs, AGR system etc. by nightly disconnection of the battery brought no change. For me this makes no sense. Before the cleaning the Fahler has not been there. Now the engine seems to be in a I would now have thought that a sensor would deliver false values or the turbo’s adjustment mechanism would depend on what happened with VW from time to time. I can imagine that in a certain speed range, the blades in the turbo would then be so “unfavorable” in the exhaust current angle that too high a charge pressure would be set up here. Is it a charging pressure regulator, right?
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Automatic transmission Oil change Filling quantity Omega B
I bought my Omega new oil for the automatic transmission (AR25KZ) (converter tub and transmission tub removed, filter and gaskets replaced). ~4l oil came out, I could fill ~4,8l (exactly I can no longer understand the quantities, too much has unexpectedly fallen victim to paper cloths and Damper spotlights ~;-) How much really has to be filled is unclear, neither in nor in is called a filling quantity. Of me was called 8,4l (+0,2l for coolers), at 4,4l z u read.
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Air conditioning does not cool in condition
Hello, have a problem with my C 70 II 2.4 i, Bj 2006: the climate does not cool in the stand and one hears then from the outside constantly click the magnetic coupling. However, one does not hear the fan in the stand. As soon as one drives, the climate cools perfectly. Had had the coolant replenished 2 weeks ago, because at that time also during the ride no cooling performance took place. After the evacuation it was determined that 50 % was missing. What can be the cause? Is the model with its own air conditioning or condenser fan, which may be the cause of this situation, or will the cooling be achieved via the general engine fan? The (free) workshop, which filled up the air conditioning device two weeks ago, was not able to perform a leak test at the time, but now wants to make up for it, after I have called again there. But I think any undichichichlichkeit is independent of the fact that there is no cooling in the stand. I rather assume two different causes. Thank you for your help!
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Volvo V70 D5 D5244T4 Servo pump replace in self-direction ?
Dear Forum members, Although the change of hydraulic fluid of my V70 has brought improvement, but unfortunately not the TOP result. Now I have the new pump (aftermarket spotcheig) lying here and wanted to listen, has someone already done that alone on the farm/garage/rent workshop and can report about it? I have looked at the whole thing once on ramps, and from below you can hardly get to the pump. probably the removal only, with decrease of the right wheel, remove the wheelhouse shell and removal of the 2 V-belts? From above you get to the two hoses as well as the 3 nuts that hold the pump. Is the thought course right? I thank you for your input, would like to make it as inexpensive as possible. New hydraulic fluid as well as nuts, 2 belts and the small green seal are already here. It greets CZEA1989
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Engine Problems
I saved the following problem with My Thickness 2008er 3.0 V6 The suction tube flaps with the entry adjustment ,without function ,(static) and AGR valve Druchsatz too low (sporadic), the suction tube flaps were replaced and the AGR valve cleaned and with a vacuum pump on function p. After that he had the problem Lampda worth too fat, error memory was deleted about 20 km. But now you go into the full load range so kick down, error lamp and engine check L error memory entry changes between or at the same time: fuel pressure is too low below limit value (sporadic = I suspect because it is only at KICK Down) and AGR valve throughput is too low (static or sporadic) is different return quantity was measured with all cylinders the same, but what I noticed was that from the return lines diesel flowed out and not very little normal white should nevertheless the setbackventi l prevent this? The other thing is it squirts quite strongly, possibly a spray nozzle defective? can of course also have the following – pressure sensor for rail pressure sensor – fuel filter (no idea when the last time was exchanged) – or the high pressure pump that the pressure will no longer be required at KICK Down? what can you tell me about this?
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Phaeton W12 Gear damage – removal possible without engine?
Hello, I have been the owner of a VW Phaeton W12 with the newer 450hp machine for a few days now. The car was quite cheap but has a transmission damage, which is expressed in that from 4000U/min no more power transmission takes place and it as soon as one leaves the car terribly clattered. The car was actually intended as part carrier for my A8 4E W12, but I do not bring it on the basis of the condition and would like to prepare it. At the A8 I had the transmission The Phaeton doesn’t seem to have a 6HP26, but a 5HP24. In addition, I have read something about an unreachable screw on the top of the gearbox at the Phaeton, so the engine has to come out with it. Can one of you confirm that or is there another way to get the gearbox out without expanding the engine? MfG Max