According to BA, the BT add-on listener should activate when removing from the storage tray. with him should be able to make calls from the call lists, look through the phone book, accept calls, stop, etc. when connected, a corresponding icon appears on the rns display, next to the BT icon. more is unfortunately not included in the BA.WAS TUN, however, if this (the add-on listener) only displays “Please wait…”? can one somehow perform coupling or reset? or is there a special key combi? what do you need?vcds? which stg? a reset-hole or similar I have not found. and especially at vw I know, I don’t like to ask them at all… THANK YOU
Author: 00c12f
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Summer rims and summer tires
Friends, I’ve been browsing for days, configuring some fancy summer flaps for my Ferdi… The original rims get winter tires (Hankook) from the dealer (the 8-year-old, board-hard cockroaches go down, I hung my favorite once, entry-free, clear… The tires but not too wide, 245. You will fall an egg out of your pants….
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Chrome strip on rear thruster
Hello together The chrome strip on the rear of my W12 has a damage. Is it possible to replace it without larger walls or does it have to be removed for example the shock rod first? Does anyone have any idea what that could cost? Thanks and greetings from Switzerland Martin
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Again “engine failure – workshop”
Today on the way to work: At approx. 100 km/h appears in the display engine malfunction workshop. Engine in emergency running program, only 60 km/h possible. Before 5000 KM the same message, then the turbo was replaced. Apparently that was not the problem. Car first stopped 10 min maintained, error still there. Car left standing for another 10 min. 100m driven error again. Car left standing for another 10 min. After that the car jerks strongly, shows the error no longer, but clearly we Niger Leistung. Does anyone have any idea what this can be? I’m really disappointed by VW. My 2nd Phaeton and with everyone only problems. Currently there are the following problems: – Air conditioning whistles sometimes very loud (according to dealer normal) -high frequency noise at 105 km/h (can’t understand workshop) -other high frequency noise when giving gas from 130 km/h (can’t understand workshop) -Servo steering sometimes does not work after cold start -multiple door opening p he FB not possible (with each of the remote controls) clock was not switched to winter time although ZAB writes clock was changed – vehicle moves since last workshop stay to the right (workshop says we did nothing on the chassis) – clearly louder outside noises than with comparison vehicle especially from the driver side – wheel of the seat heater to move several times only by force So slowly I am really very annoying. Not of the errors, that can pass every vehicle times but that they are not remedied or denied their presence. Greetings capdoc
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Experiences XC90 as 7 seats
Moin together, we carry ourselves with the idea to treat ourselves to an XC90 as 7 seaters. Does anyone have experience with 3 child seats on the back seat? Do they fit in and reach the middle belt for a baby seat? And when we are there, what are useful equipment details? Here is my thought-out config: Summum 7 seater Automatic Navi sliding roof Premium Sound CD changer USB/iPOD interface Bluetooth free-checking device Sliding roof trailer coupling darkened windows Airbag durable rear air conditioning parking aid rear parking aid front Thanks for your input, Lars
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Durability Ignition cassettes T 7 (aftermarket – OEM)
Dear community, by now, T7 cassettes are also offered by the Saab part dealers known in the forum, which are significantly cheaper (up to 50%) than the original goods. Are there already long-term experiences? Greetings Jazzer2004
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Diagnosis: Metal chips on the crankshaft sensor
Does someone know a (harmless) explanation or has idea of further problems in the direction of hope? Engine runs sufficiently round, but with power mau, down wall (as if without turbo!) performance problem can also come from leaky hoses engine ventilation and dense oil trap. Or asked the other way around: Does someone know from experience that investment in the engine is certainly not indicated? (as one must fear for the time being)
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2.5TD slowly drives me to madness
The engine had the problem so far, that it sprang in cold “state” after the preliminary annealing without problems and with a working warm engine for ever he used to sprang up and then he ran. Meanwhile he has his problem with jumping even after the preliminary annealing and sometimes he jumps on but goes off again about 1-2seconds after the jump or goes out partly when I let him roll out and brake off. And the day before yesterday it was time, I stood with the car in the middle of the Stadtz I didn’t want to go home again, but I made the calculation without the Omega. It was still a little warm (it didn’t glow accordingly), then I let him laugh for a while as always, when he still didn’t jump in after about 15-20 seconds, I interrupted, waited briefly and then tried again and did nothing again. Then I tried it a third time and then gave up the battery. So I called the ADAC and started to do it again. When he came after more than an hour he connected his “start-up device”, waited something for the battery to regenerate a little and tried to start the car. Then he jumped again willingly. The breakdown helper then waited for a while, turned off the engine and then wanted it to start normally over the vehicle battery and again did not happen except that it started to smoke it to the left of the engine very startk (though already the chapter engine would have done). he connected his starting aid device and the Omega strangely drew his 100Ah battery empty within a very short time and again did not happen anything but strong agony from the engine compartment. Then I was towed almost an hour later again to the only Opel dealer in Braunschweig, one was extremely embarrassing:-((As if all this wasn’t bad enough then I drove to the FOH Friday morning and inquired about the Omega and nobody saw it there. Then after almost 45 minutes waiting, a “workshop man” came out and tried to get started, but didn’t even give the battery a moment to regenerate. He immediately said, “we can’t do anything there, he doesn’t start and I don’t look after it before next week.” I was served but then made a workshop assignment. Then my friend called in the workshop, were even more unfriendly to him and on because of that I decided to get the car away from there and if I had to push the just over 1.8tons across BS once. Suddenly the Omega then somehow jumped on. Next week he gets a new battery but nevertheless I drive also almost 300km to nem FOH where I was already a few times with my old Mazda and my mother brings her Vectra there if he has something. Because something can definitely not be right about the engine. The ADAC soon suspects one of the many sensors and signaling devices on the engine and that the control unit gets a wrong signal.
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Volvo c30 T5 bj 06 Automatic transmission rinsing
Good day together Would you like to have a few experiences about automatic transmission oil flushing at the Volvo C30. First of all to the story: Ride a C30 T5 automatic bj. 06 186400 km. I’ve been thinking for a long time about a flushing of the transmission but nothing was acute so far. Was however a few days ago with the car on the Nordschleife and after a few kilometers came the display in the Tacho “Griebeöl temp. zu hoch”. That made me already a bit stutzig then… anyway then first A few days later I noticed, however, that the gearbox is in a position when switching from R to D a slight cracking noise makes that definitely not there before. Today I was in the workshop then… The gearbox is in order, but there is a little bit of oil in it. I was advised to have a flushing done. Cost point 850€. Supposedly, the oil filter alone would cost 250€. Find that quite he I found an oil filter at sxandix for just under half of the time.. but would also have to know the exact name of the transmission… Maybe someone can help me further. mfg Marco
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Wrong oil from Volvo?!
Hello, I bought a used Volvo V50, 2.0 D, built in 2005. I noticed now that there is another oil in it ( v 5 w 40). And according to the recommendation it must be 5 W 30. Now I called Volvo, who did this and they say it’s not bad and can’t break much. Those of A.T.U say it’s sloppy for the engine. Now the next oil change is on. Should I take the 5 W 30 or the V 5W 40 again. Thanks for the answer.