Hello all, I have light oil with my Omega and meanwhile also cooling water loss again… Cooling water only minimal but still I have to refill 100ml after approx. 1000km. I had tried a cooler sealant at that time – for a time there was no loss to detect now again approx. 100ml to 1000km. Oil loss… I control 1x per week… mostly Sundays… in the last weeks I drove about 100km per week and then had to refill approx. 100ml. The oil loss and cooling water loss I could not locate until today. Containers and all hoses incl. radiators are apparently dense. Oil can be seen at the engine at the bottom of the transmission… is so about half covered with oil. During the drive I have when the engine is warm driven often a slight smell in the car of burnt oil… Exhaust gases are but normal – it does not burn the oil in the engine. So, and when the engine is warm and I turn it off I always hear such a “knister” in the engine compartment – sounds like you’re frying something… just a little bit quieter just… and today I could see that this noise comes clearly from the area where the thick cooler hose is on the engine, right below is the cracker and its cover. Has anyone already experienced similar things? Where is the error? I couldn’t detect any water leak on the hose…but it has deut “knistert”… many oil on the cracker that somehow gets there by VDD? But could not find an oil leak at the point… Does anyone have an idea?
Author: 00c12f
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Camshaft sensor screw aborted
Hello! I’m new here and I’ve been feeling all over the forum. I waved my camshaft sensor and when screwing in, the screw has broken off. I’ve already tried to drill in and left-hand twister, now there’s a piece of left-hand drill in it. Probably the screw got one off when turning out because I didn’t use any force. Do I have another way to attach the sensor? Do I still have to drill further, what to consider? I’m afraid that I can get chips or something where they don’t have to go. I can only drill between screw and left turner, which only goes with a larger drill, because a thinner drill will probably bend to the left turner and then break. So I have to destroy the thread. I’m grateful for every advice!
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Frozen aluminium rims
Hello guys! I bought an Omega 2 months ago and wanted to change to winter tires this weekend! The problem is that the rims can’t be solved by the car, i.e. you can’t move them in a millimeter.. Do you have a tip how to get them down? Mfg
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Motor doesn’t turn to crankshaft!
Hello dear Opellaner Got a problem a short time ago an MV6 The car was standing for a while Ca 1 year I just don’t know how long exactly without candles and oil filling. I tried to turn the motor somehow with a key on the crankshaft. But it can only turn a small piece and then nothing at all can get the motor back loose that it can turn. And how do I do that best???
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Maxxi’s tire experiences?
Hello I’ve been driving Pirelli for 60,000 km all-year tires. Now they’re on the front axle and I need new ones. I didn’t think it would be so difficult. Volvo and another tire service couldn’t find a single size 235-40-18. I also googled it myself and can confirm it. A 3rd tire service was found after a long search. Dr Reifen comes from China and is classified according to tyre service in the middle class. Speed up to 240 km-h. Lt Google ee he good review in many forums. I don’t care about the price. I’d rather have Michelin. But she doesn’t exist. Has anyone already driven this tire? Thanks in advance
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Trembling in the steering from 120 kmh and also braking down
Hello guys I’m new here and I have a problem right away. I drive a Caravan Omega B MV6 when I give normal gas on the highway, then the trembling in the steering is not quite so great, but if I trette in the right way, it gets worse and that starts from about 120 kmh and the same also when braking, I have to say that I have winter tires on it in 205 / 65 R15 it can also be how hot the dinger couplers, and how can you see if they hit out n are or not. And the shaking is only there since the engine change. Furthermore, how can I test the brake fluid, because I don’t feel that the e is as slow as it was in the beginning, of course you get used to the brake, but it’s still different now. And what I noticed is that he plays down and out with the speed from time to time, but always easy one can tell me what it can be. And that’s only there since the engine change.? Love greet your Gabi from Berlin
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Rear axle braking system cannot be ventilated
I have the following problem on the 98er Omega B 2.0 16V Caravan: I tried to replace the brake fluid and gave 2 bar pressure on the system with a professional device. But nothing happened on the rear axle. After opening the exhaust nipples, the brake fluid came out of the right nipple only drop-off and nothing came out of the left nipple. Furthermore, the braking power on the rear axle seems to be relatively poor, the car is moving about 16km daily and it still forms light rust on the rear brake discs. Overall, the car does not brake outstandingly, but nevertheless quite ok. Where can the error lie? Is it quite banal and I only have to vent with the ignition on? Or are it quilled brake hoses?
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Headlights glow too close
Hello screwdriver, Have a small problem “I own an Omega 2.2DTI Built 2002” The Xenon headlights do not shine far enough. I try to explain from the front. I have no controller in the interior to adjust the headlights. The vehicle was lowered by predecessors, therefore a thought of work colleagues that the basic position of the sensors in the rear was not changed. Was yesterday in the workshop the car was checked with the diagnostic device everything ok. except test for the position otoren der is constantly aborted. Presumably by Master that they may not be ok. And only to check that will be really expensive to remove headlights and reinstall it takes just too long he says. I’m a little skilled to put it out and install it, but how do I check the actuators? PS: the fuses are all ok. And next problem my wife refuses to drive even at night. Therefore please help me. I thank you in advance.
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Your assessment: 850 as a daily driver?
Hello, my V70 II has gone away from me. And now I’m looking for a new one, but I’m also wondering if I should take the opportunity to look for a 850er. Because I’ve always found it “toller” because of the beautiful square front. The question is: can you drive a 850 as a daily driver, and that’s just as carefree as a V70 II? I’ve driven the V70 II several ten thousand kilometers a year, also often fast, i.e. 160-180 km/h. Or do you have to say, that today a 850 is rather a hobby or lover car, but nothing you can “rely” on? Thank you!
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850er than everyday car
I have a general question: I drive my 8 TDI now in the 10th year. The first 8 years there was actually hardly any problem, only maintenance repairs and even wear. Two years ago I had the ZR jumper, where new valves and a new injection pump were installed. This then did not want any more. The fun was not cheap. Since then the TDI drives again without teasing, currently only maintenance and wear. So nothing moving. Now again the annual Urlau b with the family. So pack the station wagon again to the stop and go south (about 2500km in two weeks). I’m already thinking about whether the car has grown to this stress. From the feeling I would say no problem. The car can do this without problems. But from my wife and from the circle of acquaintances there are comments. Which one of you still drives the 8th as a uncompromising everyday car? Also over longer distances. Greeting Holger