MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Engine Start

    My s80 d5 can only be started after one day of standing. Who you start after longer standing time turns the start you can also start for a long time but it doesn’t start. If you start a second time it starts immediately. What can that be??? The injectors have already been checked. Thanks

  • Grinding noise???

    I already knew that my S60 was a grinder, but now it is accompanied by the sound I noticed the grinding noise 2 weeks ago, only in hard-driven right turns, now in general. And it always becomes louder. Sounds then partly like a hammering or knocking. It is speed-dependent, but independent of the engine and the brake. Had first assumed that there might be a nail in the tire… but nothing. someone had had that…??? become m take care of the workshop….this will be too hot for me…. Ciao, Eric, the left front wheel is already unscrewed today but nothing is found….

  • Experience regarding display of range

    Three days ago, on the way to Hamburg with a speed of 190 “said” to me the BC that I will not make it. Since I had no desire for a tank stop, I reduced it to 140 kmh and it should be enough. At the village entrance still 20 km were available to me according to the message. The 5 km to my domestic tank I then drove on. 71.01 liters fit into the tank (+ filling nozzles) V70 D5

  • Turbocharger repaired now defective

    Hello I had a defect on the turbocharger in August. My Volvo dealer then repaired it (650€). Then the car ran normal. Until last week the same error came again. (motor maintenance required): I returned to the Volvo dealer. He meant the turbocharger is now completely over and must be replaced. (cost estimate 1460€). Oh yes the car runs quite normally also with turbo. the emergency run only starts from time to time. Mostly if I e.g. on the highway after a construction site After 2 km on the motorway in the emergency run the error goes away again and everything runs normal. In the city traffic the error never occurs. What do you think, must the dealer meet me? Between the maintenance and the upcoming exchange are 4 months and 5000 km respectively. Thank you for your advice in advance.

  • Just whining for a second (love diary)

    Hya, Tuesday I tried to bring the blue caravan over the Tüv after 6 years of service. That means – actually I wanted to know what I had to do. But he didn’t like the car at all 🙁 (right) From front to back. – Fog lights are swimming inside. – Headlight glass on both sides too matt. – Front left spring break – Front left brake line too rusty. – Front both brake discs too rusty (deep scars in material) – Front both track rods are cut out. – Back both brakes Chewing too rusty (deep scars in the material) – In the back both shock absorbers wet. – Back left spring break (but what I saw at home – at the Tüv it didn’t notice) – hand brake pulls unevenly. – Operation brake pulls unevenly – and as a dope on the i – rear windscreen wiper rubber defective 😉 Now I am pretty much at the racking. Before all I could k… because the fixing screw of the brake disc right back I can’t get on 🙁 The imbus bit slipped smoothly through me. D And at Ebay I found a single screw for 23(!) double markers. (I’d rather look at the scrapper…) Both dampers at the back needed extreme force to be removed. There were the guide tubes out of the rubbers in the lead and only went out with a lot of wobble hammers and violence 🙁 That cost me a whole day’s work and at least 1 year of my life … Tomorrow I drill the fixing screw out and build up the back the second new brake disc with new saddle and coverings and the new springs. Then it is finished in the back. Puh. He has new headlights and neblers in the front as well. Then comes my fear topic – expansion of the front spring legs, replace springs and install them again. (The dampers are fortunately still OK) If someone has tips to have – always come with 🙂 Too much is the Clio, which I bought for the work path. It just goes out again and again and also a leak in d he gas system. But my lawyer sees good chances 🙂 So fertich with whining 😉 Btw.: the good one has good rust on various parts. Can I cover the brake calipers sandblasting and then with protective varnish – or do I ruin the sliding surfaces of the cylinder with it? Many greetings Mathias PS By the way: Both old dampers just ripped off me when pulling down like paper!

  • Purchase advice V70 2.5 with low budget

    Good morning all together, I have read a lot here in the forum in the last days and need a personal purchase advice for two V70 I who are close to me 🙂 I hope you can help me further! Starting point: I was the last to be able to get “a little” excited about these models with a friend in the V70 I. Now that I need a transitional vehicle for the next 8-10 months, I looked directly to Volvo and bi I drive about 600km a month, have to pull to a trailer and have several at hand which have a lifting platform and can therefore repair something for me. Now to the vehicles: Both are close to the 300,000km, both are black and have the 2.5 petrol with 144hp and 170hp installed. The first is built in 04/1997, has TÜV until 07/2016 and is supposed to drive very well. Information on the change of the timing belt the owner can le The towing hook at the front should have nothing to mean (was probably already there when it was bought). I get information about the number of holders and repairs at the VA today. Purchase price: on 900€ traded.http://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/339841594-216-2598 The second is built in 12/1999, has TÜV until 07/2017, 2nd hand and in my opinion (you already notice at the price…) the better choice. Better equipment, the seats I like better, It makes more visual thanks to the rear spoiler and the rims and so I find it much more well-kept. The repairs before 1000km of brakes in the rear are complete, V-belts etc. are also top. However, if the net costs three times – 2,700€ (have not yet reached the seller to negotiate, I expect about 2,000€). http://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/341725236-216-2082 Now is the question for you Volvo connoisseurs: The budget for the more expensive V70 would be there. investment? We’re talking about min. 1.100€ more and after 8-10 months it should be sold again… but doesn’t want to have a toilet where I have to pump my acquaintances every month, if they can repair me a bit! I hope that wasn’t too much input Best regards from Lippe Christian

  • v70 – D5 – Consumption

    Today I rolled my moose to the gas station after 1032 kilometers and filled the tank again. After exactly 74 liters (how exactly is that) I finished the tank process. I could see the diesel already. If I am not too stupid to operate “calc” I experienced an average consumption of 7.1 liters. The BC showed me a bit more beautiful 6.6 liters. I used the auxiliary heating only 2 times in this tank filling (summer stop). Driving profile: 30% (fr) ie) Autobahn, Tacho 180 – 210 10% Stadtverkehr 60% Landstraße I have always switched into the next higher gear as early as possible and used the 5th gear at speed 50 in the city. Autobahn actually only in the 6th gear (except acceleration lanes). I did not have to switch down for a better acceleration.. On the road I rolled everything from 70km/h in the 6th gear. Greeting Marc – with 3 liters less than with the predecessor

  • Error codes can not be read ?!

    Hello Opelaner! My junior was free with his 97-er Omega 2,0 16V and wanted to have his fault memory read out because with him the Mkl lights up.The master could not create a nimbling to the control unit, had also no plan what it is. maybe one of you had the same situation here and has a tip for the reasons. Thank you .

  • Coolant loss W12 alternator

    Ahoi together, I discovered a coolant leak and suspect that it leaks out of the maggot screw at the bottom of the alternator, or drips it off there. I already checked the hoses above by endoscope but could not detect any leaks, the engine was washed today thoroughly so that I can look again tomorrow. Can someone tell me what happens if I turn this maggot screw out? I guess that the cooling circuit will run empty because the place nevertheless r really sits far down in the system, there is a possibility to clamp the inlet from above ? The idea would be to turn the maggot screw (if it comes out) out and cut the thread after it and replace it with a new Greetz

  • New Phaeton driver & nailing at partial load

    Hello everyone, I am now also proud owner of a Phaeton (the third one in the family – from the thickness there seems to be a great risk of contagion ) and I am happy to be here now also a little more active than only mostly reading as before. A few key data: GP4 (built in 2014), 5-seater long version, 3.0 TDI, beryllium grey outside and Corn Silk beige inside (a admittedly somewhat daring combination), 60,000 km ran. A few more photos follow probably in the coming days on my profile. But now to my actual question: The thickness (engine CEXB) produces in the partial load range a quite clear nailing/clagers. A nailing, which I am not used to in this clarity of the other Phaetons in the family (but they all still have the “forerunner engine” BMK). It occurs exclusively in the partial load range and ONLY with warm engine. In all other conditions it runs absolutely calm. The engine buzzes nich t, does not produce white smoke, oil levels remain constant. The correction values of the injectors are absolutely inconspicuous (photo in the appendix). Where else could this come from? Possibly AGR? Was there something fundamentally modified at the CEXB? On a good relationship and still a nice evening Philipp