Author: 00c12f

The sound is relatively quiet, but I’ve heard it now and I’ve noticed it again and again. It’s, as I said, irregular and independent of the engine temperature. On some days it doesn’t even occur. Now I hope that either something will work or an oil change could remedy it before it is actually the engine bearings. Stock would be anyway. ltsam… there is always enough oil in it, it is always warmed up… well. Anyway, on several pages I have already read the clear recommendation for 10W60 oil from Castrol for the C20NE and C20XE, moreover it was already suggested to me by friends. In the last instance, however, I would be interested in your opinion – is the oil really useful? Greetings, qp

Good day, everybody! I finally dared to change the camshaft adjusters with my Z18XER (92tkm on top).All this in a garage, without lift, without motor bridge, but with a small suitcase tool from Ebay, around about 35€ (camshaftlineal, NW locking, flywheel blocking, V-belt tensioner jars were important, the others I did not use).The problem was the cold start clapping, which became increasingly longer and louder. the Opel field assistance (I don’t know anymore number), inside it says that the NW wheels have to be replaced, because the tolerances did not fit with the old ones. From (end?) 2007 the improved adjusters were installed. Of course, there is no culant for 8 years old cars etc., therefore an exchange costs 700-1000€, depending on the FOH…. here it is recommended to have the timing belt set renewed immediately, since the anyway has to make the thing of course still costspi eliger. Now I’ve been looking for a guide for almost a year without success, to change the adjusters…the control valves replaced with me unfortunately did not do anything, also oiling on a in hot condition 0W40 instead of a 5W30 (so that the adjusters do not run so easily, switch off after the engine) was useless. So I ordered the necessary parts on the Internet. There is only one manufacturer, namely INA/Schäffler (Ruville should be only a trade mark, manufactured The numbers would be 427 1004 10 for the inlet NW…….427 1005 10 for the outlet NW……and 2x 205805 for the also modified control valves, if you want to change them. I recommend it already, since with the old valves the sieves can detach….or you just remove them, with a screwdriver. These parts fit for Z/A16XER and Z/A18XER. Here now, as I have done: -lift wagons, secure with wooden beams -Remove wheel at the front right, Destroy spray protection below/side V-belts (4 small torx screws) filter box, open screw clamp at the throttle flap with 7 fork key, cover the opening with a rag so that nothing falls in, clip off LMM plugs, also clip off pressure sensor climate and put cables behind the motor so that it is not in the way – tension belt tensioner with 19 ring wrench, secure with the locking pin, remove belts, mark direction, otherwise there will be üb Average wear……Screw out the belt tensioner with 14 outer torx nut -Upper timing belt cover Screws out and remove (2x 10 outer torx) -Put off the eyewitness module, unscrew (inner torx screws, I don’t know the size), remove spark plugs (16 spark plug closures) so that you can turn the engine into the different positions more easily afterwards. f OT-place (18 outer torx), marking of the lower timing belt cover must degrade curvature torque support (3×18 outer torx + 19 nut) with marking on the belt wheel (16 nut + 16 outer torx, see FOTO) -When crankshaft (following KW) is blocked on the flywheel, V-belt wheel decompose with 18 outer torx (damn hard to open), then turn the screw again hand-resistant -motor With wooden beams, it is best to build something soft, damping (composed bath towel etc) in order not to damage the oil pan….the engine rests on it after removing the motor holder, therefore it should hardly fall down. In case of need, rather lower the whole car a little, because otherwise when assembling the screw holes, when the engine falls too far -Screw off all the driver’s side motor holders (6x 14 outer torx, 2x 16er hexagon screw, 1x 16er nut) – Lower (4x 10er outer torx) and medium timing belt cover (only plugged) remove -Zahntriebel is now completely visible, now the two-part NW-wheel locking PASSING in, see FOTO. As you put it in, it must also look again when assembled. The marking of the left adjuster lies a bit above, which of the right adjuster should curse exactly, but was not possible with me, I guess, because cheap tool. If you look closely , it can be seen that the marking of the right adjuster cannot be cursed with the stroke on the tool, because the teeth are completely offset. -Clamping roller of the timing belt, possibly secure with the locking pin. Didn’t happen to me, because the corresponding hole was not present….with my original clamping roller on the other hand. Then remove the straps, if it is to be reused, then mark the running direction. Is a T50 inner torx. I have also used the blue Loctite, we also like to use it in the work. -Now remove the cylinder head hood, are some 10 or 12 outer torx screws. To do this, cable lines have to be lifted from the holders all around. – Insert camshafts linearly into the slots at the camshaft ends, pinches something, needs f You will also have to rotate slightly on the 24s hexagon of the camshafts. For this I had to grind my fork key a little bit, because it is quite tight. (FOTO) -Reassemble the wheel blocker, place KW to 60° before OT. I was informed, probably so that the pistons are all as far away from the valves as possible (if you should slip off with the 24s key, the ruler also slips out, then the NW can turn and a piston crash The two T55 Torx screws open, it cracks short, does not scare. Go out incredibly hard. The helper has to look very well, that the NW stays in position, and is not burdened on torsion. Then the adjusters can be easily removed, the black sleeve has to be put out -the new adjusters stick on it, the sides do not swap, and the supplied screws can be turned in hand-resistant so that you can turn something else. -Now put the NW-wheel blocking tool back in again, that the markings fit again, must look the same as before. Then tighten the screws again with 50 Nm + 150° + 15°… and keep it right again! -The closure screw with new sealing rings and pull with 30 NM again. Keeps with me with the old rubbers but also again close NW-Lineal remove -The KW in motor turning direction turn again on OT, tool out before – lay on timing belts again, take care of the running direction, if the old one is taken again…. Let the clamping roller relax -Now rotate by 72° at the KW, whether all markings match again and the NW-Räder blocking tool can be inserted again, If yes, then you can remove it and clear it, it is no longer needed -All timing belt covers again and tighten with 6 Nm – install vibration wheel blocking, place the belt wheel on the KW and tighten with new screw 95 NM + 45° + 15°, then block out again and tighten the motor gear connection screw again -Built the passenger side motor holder completely, unfortunately have no torques for it…. Depending on how hard they have risen -Reinstall torque support, tighten all screws with 45 Nm -Apply the belt tensioner with 50 NM, use new screw -Apply belt (see direction of operation) and unlock locking -Insert spark plugs, tighten with 25 Nm -Insert valve lid new seal, tighten with 8 Nm -Insert and plug in eye module, tighten with 8 Nm, insert all cable guides -Insert filter box, screw clamp with feeling before, infect LMM, air pressure sensor also, air intake pipe to the filter box cleanly put on it, so that it does not draw warm air – spray protection wheel box/bar area reassembly – trial trip -Evtl still look after whether everything is dense, in the area of the NW wheels I then still on the highway to test the maximum speed. 218/219 on the speedometer, he apparently has done his full performance, so nothing can have done wrong….and he clattered today auc h no longer improves me, if there is still an important hint missing! Pictures still come! Exchange control valves: Are only attached to the engine with an outer torx screw at the front and back. turn out, pull out the old valve with slight rotation movements (Evtl with water pump pliers), plug in new valve, oil in a little bit before sealing rings, tighten with 6 Nm, plug in, done.

I have a general question about my cylinder head screws on the X16XEL; the following screws are installed: M10 x 1.25 x 153 mm, continuous thread and strength class 10.9 i.e. yield limit rp0.2 at 900 MPa and tensile strength at 1000 MPa. Can anyone explain why the screws are to be replaced after disassembly? So far no one could explain it so correctly. (at FOH cost the 10 screws 67€ – I call it rip off…) here for clarification: (of course clearly cheaper)http ://www.ebay.de/…/40268503201