MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • V6 TDI: growling sound in the stand, vibrations in the interior clearly noticeable (lenkrad and seat)

    A warm Moin here in the round, Since the end of January I am now proud owner of a Phaeton (V6 TDI, EZ. 10.2004, only real 45.TKM, quite fully equipped, very well maintained). I had obtained from you a decision-making advice. Thanks again for that. After a month and already 3 workshop visits (but only small stuff, which had to be made, car rental was provided free of charge: Skoda Superb, Polo, Golf)) I need your advice again: For about a week and a half comes fol The engine becomes noticeably “crumbled” and louder when braking down (e.g. before the traffic light, starting at about 30 kmh). It doesn’t matter whether the engine is still cold or has already reached operating temperature (90 degrees oil and water temperature). However, the idle or standing speed is constant (about 800 tours) and there are no bumps up or down. If I switch the car from N to D and hold it with the brake, it is a very small amount. But there are clearly vibrations in the interior: in the seat and also in the steering wheel. Even some passengers noticed this without saying anything. I don’t want to say that you would have the feeling that you are sitting on the engine block, but Phaeton-like is by no means. I have already driven 4 diesels before (four and six cylinders, pump nozzle and also commonrail). In no case was that s o. So I was back in the VW workshop on Thursday/Friday and I monetized it. I insisted that the master drive in my presence. He just said he didn’t notice anything and that’s normal. He kept the car there to drive him again “cold” the next morning. I told him the few things I could find out about the search function here (Glühkerzen?, gear oil?). When I picked him up on Friday, nothing had improved. the fault memory showed nothing. Oh, before I forget it: the gearbox switches really buttery soft, gear changes can only be seen via the switch indicator. The first two weeks were without fault and blame. . . . (at least engine-moderate). I have also groped in the Audi forum, is the same engine. But I could not really find something there either. Do you have an idea (before I bring the thickness to another VW workshop soon) Dear greetings

  • Start Phaeton without ZAB

    Hello, After a long “inactivity” I hope to come back to a new project that I have spun out. But before I continue to plan here I hope for expert help I would like to completely replace the ZAB (so the PC in the center console) with a solution. Soft and hardware side would be no problem for me (CAN Analyzer if there is no protocol documentation, etc. is everything available). But for testing and analyzing it would be best so now my question: Can I start the Phaeton *unsafe* without an infected ZAB? That then radio, etc. do not work is clear to me of course Best regards, Alexander

  • What was the cost of the DSP 12/12 in the GP1 back then?

    Hello, I’d be interested in what the DSP 12 in the GP1 2007 cost at that time. Background is that the reperatures at Phaeton (192000km) have been accumulating lately and I’m thinking about a successor. We ordered my wife a golf with Dynaudio (670 or 690 euros extra charge), the car was delivered 4 weeks ago and I have to say the sound is according to my feeling underground compared to the Phaeton. Actually my newer should also become a golf But the sound with and without Dynaudio is not acceptable to me. Now I am already superior to a 2012 or 2013 Phaeton With Dyn. Temptation to get what my wife would probably not like (because of the maintenance costs). Which middle class has vernünfigigen sound ex works, C class with Burmester, BMW 3er with H/K? I know, car search for sound is perhaps a bit crazy, but for me most important. What do you think?

  • high consumption, less power, funny engine brake -> AGR ??

    Hello, since yesterday I noticed a com-like driving behaviour of my Omega. First of all much to me that the engine brake is different than usual. Normally the consumption goes down to 0 L when you go so at 2500 rpm from the gas, and it slows down strongly. –> now the consumption goes down only very slowly in 3 L steps or so, and then stays somewhere at 2 – 4 L while rolling. Besides, the speed goes quite strongly up when I go from the clutch to switch. (Motor howl r) This is only possible when the engine is relatively warm. I usually only had this at very cold temperatures, but this has also happened quickly after a few seconds of warm running. The idle speed is approx. at 1000 rpm when the engine is warm. Otherwise much lower… And the last one is, of course, the fuel consumption increased strongly. And I make myself to have a little less power. Can it be that the AGR valve is defective ??? Greeting Andi

  • Remove paint scraper

    Hello, my black S60 was “decorated” last night by some spiders. Now I have a nice long scratch on the driver’s side over my rear tail and on the rear door. Probably caused by a key. (In addition, a front tyre was pierced….) Does one have an idea where you can have the paint damage rel. cost-effectively fixed in the Duesseldorf area? (keyword “paint doctor” – I hope they do the auc h with such a long but dunnous scratch). I had now found it fast http://www.lackfuchs.de/hilden/. Has there been an experience? Did you want to drive by somewhere on Monday…

  • Have received Opel growth 🙂

    I didn’t want to deprive you of the fact that I got Opel growth again. Was so far completely satisfied with my Winteromi. Never had great or expensive repertures and runs and runs and runs. But I got a great offer from a friend and finally couldn’t peel it out after some price reductions. That’s my youngest so far. My latest was/is my Vectra A 2000 from BJ 1991. So now I have also arrived in the new millennium and from I am proud (since today) owner of a Opel Vectra B 1.8 16V EZ 4.2001; 94tkm (Fliessheck) The car has a great equipment: Xenon, seat heating, all windows electric, climate control, cruise control, large BC.. Body is in a top condition but unfortunately there are a few problems. Since today I know what the FOH dares to take for reading from the error memory => 62,50€!!! Only for My climate obviously has a problem and shows in the display that a bug is stored. Sometimes it heats even though it is hot and sometimes it doesn’t heat even though it’s cold but sometimes it’s quite normal. But I only drove about 100km by car. Here’s the link to the thread in the Vectra B forum: [url=my newer]http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…er-first-difficulty-t3242855.html[/url]

  • And I’m going on with my ignition problem…

    Hello, every time I start the car, whether it’s a warm or cold engine, it only runs on three cylinders for the first few seconds….? The spark plugs just look great from the combustion image. Even the old spark plugs looked really good from the combustion image. yes, I know that there is already a lot in the search function and I have already read it. But, I can’t imagine it’s the head gasket. The signs just don’t speak for it that it can be nte. Have really no plan. My question is, I changed the spark plugs on Sunday and I noticed that the spark plug on the 4 cylinder is full in the oil level. Can this possibly also be a cause that he runs at the beginning on three pötten ? Greetings, Holger

  • high consumption “new” D5

    Hi there! I was on the weekend with a Volvo V70 D5 (185 hp) circuit. What surprised me very negatively was the very high consumption. At Constant 140, a few construction sites and a few speed restrictions on 120 I used 8.0 according to BC and 8.3l calculated. The total distance was 450 km. The vehicle had about 40,000 km on it, so it has entered. Is the consumption with you so high? Thank you for the answers. PI-DD

  • Search 850-professional in the Cologne area for inventory

    Moin together! The thread title actually gives everything, but I like to explain again: I have a 92er 854 with 2.5l 20v machine as automatic. The car has (ununderstandably ) just got new TÜV. But I have a number of problems with the car and would need expert help to make an inventory of the necessary repairs. I have already invested a lot in the car, am also willing to invest another rod money if I only knew, where and above all, in what order (what is the most important thing?). I try to describe the problems of the car I know: 1. Car goes sporadically at the traffic light or in the “roll to the traffic light”. Passes me very irregularly, sometimes 2 times a week, sometimes for weeks not at all. Presumably a dying camshaft or crankshaft sensor or something like that, but doesn’t know how to test it. Gasoline pump relay is just new 2. My entire chassis seems to be front and rear Sometimes it squeaks in the curve (probably my somewhat “strange” transverse stabilizer), the driving feeling is rather spongy, on the rear axle I have the feeling to drive with leaf springs, because I feel that it is very hard, on the front axle it pins down to the steering wheel pure with the smallest unevenness etc. In mid 2013 he got new crossbars, new coupling bars and new crossbar bushings 3. I guess at the rear right still a “feeled” brake caliper, If the wheel is mounted, the wheel can be turned much heavier than the others. If you use the statement, whether you can work the caliper still or better directly for another. Brakes are made complete in February (covers and discs) front and rear (all original ATE). At the TÜV on the “Rappelbühne” he has done well, however, there are various things not in order. I would drive the car further if I did not invest thousands of Euros now. I screw as well as I can, but I also know when I can’t get any further or when I should let a professional get on. I would, if someone from the Cologne area finds himself, who might help me, rent a self-screw workshop with a stage, so that you can (after an extensive test drive, maybe it is so hard from home? ) take stock of what is going on with bushings, dampers, springs, saddles, stabis and bearings. Then I can decide, what is the difference? I just don’t trust myself. Maybe someone knows someone who knows someone? Of course you can talk about financial compensation for the trouble… Greeting 850-SIG

  • HILFe!! MOTOR just goes out when I press clutch

    Hey you love, I really need your help again. so something like that hasn’t happened to me yet and there’s the water in the interior a bit against it.*g* so you have to say that there has never been anything to do with it. he has only been doing this for a few weeks. slowly but surely I have the snout slowly full with the car … every five minutes something different. so problem is simply when I wanted to drive home today and wanted to start the engine he went on, but it people stopped and the km/h anz the two airbags people were up and when I suddenly wanted to switch down in the locality in the third course the fucking motor went off at once. well, luckily, within the 3 meters there was a bus stop where I rolled in then. I switched off everything and again and then he jumped back on again, but then people didn’t just have the airbag and also battery and that for the oil. so then I wanted to switch into the 2 course because I entered the my luck nobody far and wide before or behind me. then I started again and every time I just wanted to switch down and just pressed the clutch the engine just went off. the whole thing happened to me within 20 minutes. 8 times definitely. for the first time it happened to me about a week ago. the same as described. then it went on until today. who has a advice what that could be. pukes the car slowly but surely. and that after 4 years rest and now suddenly one by one. would like to sell the car, but unfortunately not the money for a new one at the moment. is the problem. I mean I drive to work not so much traffic street, but if I go somewhere else, then they are full and if I imagine I’m just standing there. may not even think about it. lg