Author: 00c12f

  • W123 without central locking – how to open doors from the inside?

    Hello, a probably simple question: How do I open the rear doors on a W123 limousine without central locking when they are locked? Can you pull the small locking pin up again (ala Golf II) or can you just pull it through the door handle inside? The latter would be extremely impractical, but it looks to me as if the locking pin has completely disappeared when the door is locked, so you can’t pull it out manually. The second series (built in 1980). I think the fuse pins were longer in the first series and also looked out in the locked state. Thank you and greetings

  • Motor from transporter in passenger cars

    Hello,have a motor om 616 from the transporter 207,speed transmission,which should now be in a w115 car with normal manual transmission,can it be that from the transporter the flywheel or clutch are deeper? Ca 2 cm,so if I have this under tension together I can separate the clutch, what can you change? Or screw the transmission bell from the transporter gear to the pkw gear? Thanks a lot Gruss Frank

  • Mercedes 309d Passes driving

    Hi have a question…we are currently traveling with our new (atten) mercedes 309d across Europe. Currently in beautiful Austria. What is your experience, can this car drive well over steep passes, just slow in the 2 course with 30-40kmh or is this car not built for it? Thanks already for your answers.

  • 1.6i 16V MK7 and car gas?

    I decided to change my 95er 1.6I tournament to Autogas at short notice. I don’t want to start a thread here about self-remodeling. I’m more interested in seeing some installation examples. Since the space in the engine room is very scarce, because I also have a Eberspächer behind the air filter housing, I would like to know how others have solved the space problem. I want to install a KME Bingo S4 because the shut-off valve in this system with the Verda mpfer sits and thus the whole stuff comes quite compact. So, who can post pictures of such a conversion here? I would be particularly interested in pictures of the engine compartment and the filling nozzle. Thank you in advance, Astro

  • Is it possible to drive 400km despite a defective water pump?

    Unfortunately, the water pump is defective with my old carrot and it loses (especially in the stand) water. If I refill regularly, but everything is fine… I can’t do a repair myself and also the cheapest workshop would like to work besides 65€ for the pump 180€ – because I also need a new battery and the air conditioning system needs to be refilled, the costs slowly exceed the value by nasty dimensions… Since the car has only one year Tüv and I have it myself I don’t want to invest that anymore. But I have a friend from the fire department at 400km distance who would install me a new pump including work for 130 euros – if I somehow come down there at a bit I have already built a sensor that shows me the water level in four heights and flashes, even if the lowest contact is no longer in the water. Now I just have to get the cable in the interior… But I would prefer to use the The hose must then stop through the window But I do not have to stop and refill all 10km (not yet tested) … The question is whether I do not screw up the lid for level sensor and filling hose a) the container or b) the lid or c) the lid, but leave it open. What happens while driving with overpressure or underpressure? Do I harm the engine or anyone with an open lid?

  • Cooling circuit spins

    Moin people. I have a problem or my moose. Something is not right on the cooling circuit. V70 I B5254, 170hp, 232tkm. Was visiting friends today. 70km to, 70 back. On the way there went after about 50km the indicator light, when I was standing on the slope. When the car was standing straight again, it went out again. I pushed the whole on air in the cooling system, because I changed the cooling liquid completely shortly before. With my friends I then still have a balance tank full of cooling liquid. So far ok. On the way back my indicator light went from the cooling circuit again after about 30km, and did not go out. Compensation tank full up to the top and apparently no leak. I then shrugged home at 60-70km/h, but always the temperature indicator in the eye. Engine did not get hot according to the indicator; it was nailed to the middle like a nail. At home the intake into the cooler is warm, so that you can still touch the tube. The cool water also (had the Beh The thermostat is new (since 120km) as well as the thermostat sensor. I changed at the beginning of the week, because despite 80 km of motorway at 170km/h up to a maximum of 1/3 of the temperature indicator. I also had no liquid in the balance tank. I then filled up and ordered parts. Coolant is the original of Volvo (blue green), mixture 1:1, d I changed it completely, because I did not know exactly how old the old cooling liquid is, and anyway grade 2L had to drain for thermostat. All parts are new from Skandix and according to information suitable for the vehicle. Since then the thermostat or the display function again perfectly. After c.a 7km operating temperature. The only thing has changed is the permeability of the thermostat. Before 90 now 92°C. No, the decency pointer in the balancing tank does not depend. And I have the impression that he only does it when I travel longer. I have been a lot in the city and around it yesterday. He didn’t have any problems with the cooling circuit. I have a bit of the water pump in my suspicion. Can that be true? Achso. . .The timing belt was changed 500 km ago (mechanist for wear and ignorance). can this be related to it?

  • Replacement key approx.600 € / Learning Used key?

    Hello everybody, dear Phaeton drivers! After reading a lot here I had to register now, because at the moment a problem is bothering me and I somehow don’t want to realize that the only way to the VW dealer is to lead. Problem: With my GP3-Phaeton with Kessy the second key has passed electronically. So it didn’t work anymore, and it wasn’t the battery. An electronics technician then examined the part and found that an important component on the platinum e is defective. Request from the VW dealer then resulted in an incomprehensible price of approx. 600 Euro for a factory new replacement key incl. learn here on site. So far, so bad. Thought to me then (perhaps a little naive…): Cann’t be sooo big problem, one reads again and again something about “learning keys” – get you just ‘n used, build-like Phaeton key and let it learn with the still working first key. My VW specialist had to give up after several attempts and inquiries in the VW Cosmos – apparently there has been something changed in the last years in WOB, because in the past it worked out well. And now no more, he definitely can not do it. I then asked at a car key service, and he said that he doesn’t do anything at Phaetons, because it is too dangerous for him from the electronics. already seen quite bad things with Phaetons, with which then nothing went on at all … Logically, of course, I don’t have a peek on it either. However, 600 € are of course really heavy for a second key … therefore my question to you: Is there another way? Does someone have experiences in more recent times with the learning of a used key? Does anyone even have a contact person who could help me there? Thanks in advance! 🙂

  • 2.4D with 131 hp…reliable ?

    Hello experts, I have fallen in love with the S60. (My first Vovo !) Since the wallet only allows one used, I have before me an S60 diesel, built 03-04, with approx.120.000 km (+/- 20,000 km). At approx. 25,000 km a year it is supposed to be a diesel. Now I read about the D5 with 163 hp actually mainly positive regarding the reliability. What experiences can you tell about the reliability of the 131 hp machine ? Because have a “in the eye”…although di e 163 HP machine of course has more “steam”….

  • Westfalia trailer coupling on V70II from MY2005

    Hello! I am new here and have a question about the removable trailer coupling of Westfalia on V70II, 2.4d, MY 2006. After I had already decided on the coupling of Westfalia, I was now informed by the workshop before the assembly that the coupling holder (vertical tube) would be clearly visible after the assembly and would probably look out several centimeters behind/under the bumper. This is because the mounting instructions refer only to the version up to 2004. Here in the forum are already pictures showing the coupling on the V70II to MY 2004. However, since the bumper is differently shaped here, I would be very grateful if someone could put pictures of the Westfalia coupling here from different angles on vehicles from BJ 2005 onwards.

  • Battery change S60

    Hello, since my battery has already exceeded the 5 year limit, I would like to replace it before the beginning of winter. (Not least because it can come to various software problems due to an empty battery). Now I have already found some change instructions over the SuFu. However, all these instructions go to it, if problems have already arisen due to wrong battery changes, or various units of the instruments have failed. My question: How wec hsle I correctly my vehicle battery without getting any problems with the electrics? Bzw., what do I have to take into account? BTW: Which battery brand would you recommend? Thank you!!! LG, Nordisk.