Hello, I have my 94er 1.6 convertible now in August 3 years and have had to change the crossbars 2x. I had the last one installed in June last year….and the car finds for 2 months already every track groove and “slings” around again…. Can that be the crossbars again? Or does another damage cause these symptoms? And if it is really the crossbars: Can anything else be defective that the wear of the crossbars so often causes I had shock absorbers changed from 2 1/2 years along with the wheel bearings, the brakes and the axle cuffs… Thank you for tips! Best regards Uli
Author: 00c12f
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Escort Cabrio jerks in a quiet drive
Hello, a short time ago I thought I imagined that, but today it was clear, when I drive quietly, low speed so 60km/h 4th gear or so my car suddenly starts to jerk, feels a little like hopping, but then it drives quite normal again. Today it was in all gears again and again and this time partly also when speeding. A single time it also stuttered at the traffic light in idle mode (Gang was out). What can that be? Probably nothing has With it to do, but a few days ago my wiping water broke, pump you can hear clearly as always, but it doesn’t come out, but it’s clogged, you can blow through, just wait for a new (used) pump. Data about the car Ford Escort Cabrio ALL 66KW 1.6l MK6 Greetings BausB
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Purchase advice – Volvo XC60 D4 Ocean Race from 2015 with 124,000km
…I was interested today at a Volvo dealer and I got into a Volvo XC60 D4 Ocean Race from 2015 with 124,000km (click, mobile-inserate) gucked… should cost the good piece unnegotiated. Award 18.800,-€. The only thing I still had to retrofit would be a trailer coupling… I looked at all incl. (E-set) 300,-€ for a rigid and around 500,- for a removable, I would assemble myself, like I did with my Since my old V50 2.0D summum from 2004 still drives perfectly without DPF with now 304,000km, but still something has come into the years – “repaired”, except for a few optical flaws no open construction sites, I am hard to think about whether this would be the opportunity to replace it. What do you think of the XC60? Is there something to consider especially ala e.g. timing belt interval, susceptible things to the model / engine variant ?
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V60 D3 Purchase advice
Moin, in January we get offspring No. 2, and the Ford Ka+ is only enough as a second car at best. I have kept an eye on the ff. V60 D3:https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… The equipment likes, price and performance seem to fit me. I would be interested to know if there are points that I absolutely have to check during the visit. a) Are there model-specific signs that I prefer to leave my fingers off the car? b) Are there little things that you can do well? The ff. points have I already on my question list: ? Info about the previous owner? ? ?? representative car? ? ?? leasing resetters? ? ? private leasing, business reading? ? check booklet, maintained in the contract workshop? ? What does the warranty include? mobility guarantee ? ? oil consumption between intervals ? ? oil change each after 30
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Line system Power steering
Hello community, I have a Phaeton 3.0 TDI Model 2005 and 2 days ago the front left directly at the edge of the shock rod is located a medium large spot oil. Today we removed the cover inside wheelwheel and found that one of the steel cables from the power steering has a crack because of rust. My question now, there is a Rep Kit or really has to out the whole line, which will be an immense effort. On the one picture it is the outer line above. No for your answer.
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I’m the new one..
Hello together, I just decided to register here after I’ve sniffed so much here in the last few days.. My Omega 2,2 16V from 2001 is still standing until Tuesday at the dealer’s, then I can finally pick up. After the purchase I searched the internet for something worth knowing and came here on you… The Omega is not the beginning of my Opel career, in the career there are already 2 Opel Manta B, an Omega 3000 and a Senator B 3,0 to me is the pleasant kl I think that we will soon be reading ourselves.. Dominik
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Circuit is unbearable
Hello guys, it is again the Escort (98er, 1.6 16V, 90PS) of my grandpa, which is causing problems. I would like to keep the car as far as possible in as good a condition as possible (>160.000Tkm). Last week the clutch was changed again and thus also the tooth segment of the clutch pedal, since this is broken during the ride – the clutch was due anyway. The problem, which already exists for some time already, that the circuit is unbelievably tacky. If the gears either only enter by force, have to give interlock or first put in a different gear than the desired one. The reverse gear either only goes in to me pure force or if you hit the 4th or other gear before, but even then a blow goes through the whole car. It’s just really bad if you want to start at the intersection and the 1st gear does not go in immediately. The problem exists for a very long time and I thought that it would lie on the clutch, jedo Since the exchange last week nothing has changed. Since the coupling is manually adjustable, I have tried to make an improvement with this setting: You can change something slightly, but the basic problem remains – so it should not be due to the coupling. I had already read on this topic on the Internet that a change of the transmission oil or a lubrication of the storage of the switching rod should help, but I really don’t know what to think about it. I don’t know what to do – what can I do? How can I set the clutch? If the pegal is above the brake pedal, it can be switched slightly better, but the grinding point is very late (suboptimal for Grandpa). I can only explain this with the larger distance between the print bearing and the pressure plate. How should the new clutch be adjusted from the factory, are there any specifications? Maybe even the synchronous rings of the gearbox are worn out?! I would like to solve the problem, because for the first time it is very annoying and for the second time it goes on the gearbox. Thank you!
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Used car search – realistic assessment
Hello, I’m new here and I haven’t dealt with the topic of used car purchase for a long time. I’m looking for a big station wagon for my wife and since I’m looking for something special, timeless and robust I came to the V70. Since our budget is quite scarce due to house conversion/renovation measures I’m looking for a vehicle between 4000-5000,- EUR. My question is, if it makes sense to buy an old Sweden from approx. year 2000 and what is there in this price class . My ideas would be: A vehicle without “maintenance jam” – definitely with timing belt change, i.e. approx. 160-200 tkm, gasoline with climate (and what else?). So far I had seen 5 Fzg., of which 2 test runs – at 2 there will be a test drive soon. (The first was actually quite OK, but the air conditioning did not work, the second I would leave my fingers of it because strange noises from the drive were noticeable). Both were just under 4000 EUR – so that I guess I’ll be looking at a V70 in class ~5000 EUR next. What do you think about that?
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Connect HU 650 GROM to CD changer
In order to be able to use USB sticks with the HU 650 I ordered a Grom adapter from the company Car-tec-tronix and installed it immediately. (Connection to the 8-pin socket for CD changers) They assured me there that it should work uncomplicated…but: the HU does not offer me a CD changer. Does anyone know the problem? Can the friendly change this by software release and if yes, what costs such a thing??? Achso: V70, Bj 1/2007, HU 650 Thank you already in advance Cu Sasch
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NY5BjQEvbk&feature=feedu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NY5BjQEvbk&feature=feedu