Hello! In May 2021, the HU is back in the house. I had it done by a DeKra expert in the workshop next door for the last three dates. In February, however, the car master approached me that the requirements for both the H-entry test and the H-entry tests would have been enormously tightened and that his master examiner would now also be very strict. Therefore, I should rather try somewhere else. Today, I was at a TÜV-Nord branch, where I was impressed with an excerpt from the new guidelines. Therefore, paint breakers on the door edges, but also their repair with a paint pencil, would be obstructive. Co-paintings if the new paint differs from the rest of the colour and otherwise improper paint treatment such as excessive polishing or lightened varnish by sun effect. Further cracks or color changes in the dashboard, sitting, door panels and carpets. On my demand, therefore, whether a new car with Mind age 30 years needed, the engineer thought shrugging, the cars should look nice too. Did I now only deal with spinners or has the wind actually turned like that? I would like to know that very urgently, because then I get away cheaper with it, if I smell normally and then pay the 8oo € p.a.. Thanks in advance for industrious reply Greeting
Author: 00c12f
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Kawasaki gpz 600 sounds like a sack of nuts in a low speed range
The gpz I have sounds in the lower speed range as if parts are flying around in the engine. It is not driving report but carburetor filters etc are new, because I wanted to build those out of fun. From 1000 upwards you can hear nothing running all the paws and not running round.
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Speed “spreading” from approx. 4800 rpm to approx. 5500 rpm
Hello and greetings to all brave helpers, so, have now renewed the lamda probe and see, the pulsating acceleration is gone! At this point a warm thank you to all who helped me on the right way!!! But unfortunately the speed problem has remained between approx. 4800 rpm and 5500 rpm! After the 5500 rpm, however, it pulls again cleanly up to the limiter. Renewed: Lamda probe, spark plugs, distributor cap, spark plugs, gasoline filter. Dual-Ram works from approx. 4000 rpm and you notice clearly the performance. Question: Ignition cable possibly or ECU? Would I be happy if you could help me with it further. Greetings SAUS
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ZKD – cooling water overpressure
Moin, I drive an Omega B bj 98 2.0liter 100kw which now has 275000 km runer. 35,000km ago, the ZKD was renewed for 600€ in a free workshop. This is now 2 years ago and I had no problems a year, after a year I had severe water loss, due to overpressure on the balancing tank (cooling water) Then I had first changed the lid and when that did not help, the container itself. Then was a time of rest (about a month ago) until it started again on lä I tried it again with a new lid, nothing changed. Now after a longer A-Bahn journey of 700Km I certainly had to tilt 2 liters of water. Oil time the thing as good as nix, fills 250ml to 1500km, everything in the frame. Before 2 years ago the ZKD were made, the engine became extremely warm and drank cooling water, I did not have that now as I said. The engine always stays at 82°, only on long motorway rides under load it gets warm, or in the city traffic, then the fan starts. Yesterday I was finally in the workshop (not the same that changed 2years ago ZKD) And I told him the problem, he smelled briefly at the cooling water and said ZKD 500€ without KR change. The workshop is somehow specialized in Opel, is a free and makes bar prices vllt after all someone has an idea, if this now all Immmmt and the ZKD have to be made. In my opinion 35000 km are quite little, is the “normal” that the change is about to take place again? ICh is of the opinion that the heads have also been sanded plan, so it has not been felt. Greetings from the beautiful Lübeck mr pink
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Disconnection VIDA 2013A
What did I have to see? Alarm, panic, stress, my Vida is killed today at midnight. Quick question: Can someone provide me with a download link for ne 2014D incl. patch via PN?
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climate at the right time without function
good evening wikinger! yes as already described in the title the climate in the last weeks always worked worse. first came only more left cool air and now I notice no difference between climate on / off. have an appointment at the car driver club for climate service with filling etc. (that has helped two years ago) but somehow the system seems leaky. there are typical problems? evaporators I have read before. is that the same as “dryer”? and wi e do I find the leak? lg rainer PS: today I have 49.3 liters in fuelled I think I wouldn’t have come far
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1min long white smoke from the engine after starting (with video)
Hello to the round, have a 09er V50, 1.6D with about 170,000 km. About 2 months ago it started. Car started, suddenly a rather terrible metallic noise from the engine. I put it off immediately. bonnet on and saw some white smoke. New started and was again everything great. Since then it is that the consumption has increased somewhat (in addition to normal winter consumption) and all holy times he smokes shortly after the start. Mostly if he 2-3 days gesta The metallic sound was only heard once more and left after 20 sec by itself. I was already in the workshop with the car but there you found nothing. After filming my starts every day last week he “finally” smoked today. This looks like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kb6Jg21l1bQ&feature=youtu.be Does anyone have an idea what this could be?
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Tacho failure after battery change
moin need real help changed the battery yesterday then started silk goes the speed no more and the speed indicator, fuel indicator, temperature indicator no longer have the safe and all checked nothing on the radio I did nothing before it went yes without problems what can be the engine is 2l 16v hope one has a good advice ???? mfg
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Tyre pressure winter tyres V60 … (D4 VEA MJ2017)
Yesterday I bought my V60 a set of new winter complete wheels (Hera 16″ 215/55R16 with Nokian WR D4) and installed them today. I was of course prepared for the RDK to report because it is hardly to be expected that the tyre pressure corresponds to the calibrated value of my summer tyres. That was also the case. So far so good. At the tank first before calibrating the air pressure all around. All tyres had 2.9 bar. 2,4 or 2,8 bar have – depending on whether under or over 160 km/h is driven, or depending on the load. Why are finished wheels delivered with 2,9 bar ? Please don’t misunderstand. I don’t want to cause a storm in the water glass here, but find that strange. Apart from that: How do you handle this with the tyre pressure ? I am currently driving around with 2,6 bar. So as a compromise between safety and driving comfort, since I am currently driving neither full pipe (now with the Wi nterreifen would be anyway at 210 end), still use the payload fully. Complementary question: Do you drive your winter tires with pressure other than the summer tires?
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Volkswagen “Phaeton D2″… it would have been nice!
There was even a ready-to-drive specimen Here are some pictures and some reading material: KLICK