Dear Forum, so far I have read along with you. 2016 was the purchase of a used car. I didn’t want to have to rap it much and needed a reliable car. My grandparents have always driven Volvo, my first one I inherited from them. so a V60 with 110 000 km, BJ 2011, automatic, D3, check-book submitted by Volvo contractors. Purchased from a free Volvo dealer who took over from a Volvo dealership. 2015 was in the latter V-belt and spanner a uf Kulanz. In 2016 he got another V-belt and a handover inspection with transmission oil change. 2017 then for the first inspection at the Volvo contract partner on site with me. Above all interior filters were made, moreover the sockets were on the back soon, otherwise everything good, nice ride, 500 and something € incl. oil change and Naviupdate. 229 km later he stops on an autbahn exit, engine goes out, no more jumps. No warning lights, nothing. There it was said the next day: Timing belts through, we have to evaluate the damage, open the engine costs 500 €, then we look further (either repair for 4900 € or engine replacement for 9400 €). After a bit of research and telephony I ask for the V-belt: half of it is. They don’t want to tell me what is the cause of the whole thing. Slowly I get angry. 10 000 € Repair but one is not ready to make a guess about the cause??? Ver towing the car to a free workshop: they open the timing belt cuff and find an intact timing belt. However, the tensioning roller lies in the cuff. Screw broken. After 125 000 km. Screw through. So there are two scenarios: 1. The screw is crap. A two Euro part does 10 000 € damage. 2. The dissolving V-belt has somehow destroyed the screw. But why does a V-belt dissolve 229 km after the inspection? Is not guaranteed here, Why am I going there? The Volvo partner says: maybe a stone. Only the car is closed at the bottom, there are no stones in the area! Now I am looking for: 1. The cause. 2. The culprit (who takes care of the repair costs). 3. A solution. Do you have ideas/experience values?
Author: 00c12f
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Attach trailer coupling & connect E-set HELP
Moin together, I would like to upgrade an AHK (Westfalia, removable) to my V70. I trust that the coupling can be installed without any problems, but when connecting the E-Sat I still have “disquiet” – I would take a vehicle-specific AC. Does anyone of you know if these are only plugs for plugging (so also for an electrics layman no problem), or has to connect loose cables to existing cables. Is there a “SUPPORT page! ? Would I be happy if here one of you can give information. Would like to save the 300,- for the cultivation…;-) Thank you and greeting Fossi
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Air suspension very sluggish / error level workshop
Hello again – hardly supposed to fix an error (watch & continue) another one is coming up… I have now rolled the forum for several hours and could not find a thread that fit my problem properly. I have to say fairly that the error existed up to a certain point already during the purchase (mid December 2025). And indeed the air suspension was in the change between normal -> high -> car lift mode very comfortable on the way. I did not exactly measure it. n, but I would type on approx. 3-5 minutes. Visually this was sitting in the vehicle (almost) / partly not noticeable. From the outside however after above time clearly visible. Lowering down however ran in the normal tempo 5-10 seconds and was also clearly sitting in the vehicle “perceived on the horizon”. The only worth mentioning reference values I had up to Dato were the other Phaetons, Phaetons? Pheatons? no matter … which I had previously tested in my vehicle search There both lifting and lowering went in a few seconds and was also perceptible in the car. Despite the long “lift time”, the AI did not give any error message and the seller (private) assured me that he had parked the car since my announcement for the test drive (about 24h before) and had not moved any more. The thickness was just there on arrival and therefore and the overall impression I neglected the whole first time. Now I had (as some of you know) recently hon another problem, which was responsible for the fact that the P 7-8 day stood current-/ and motionless. I already had the impression that it was purely optical VR somewhat deep. The rest seemed to me unobtrusive. However, I did not measure either, so if necessary the other 3 are also a bit sagging in relation.. After the resurgence there were some error messages in the AI, (including ESP, ACC and level workshop) which however were all relatively quickly gone again, why me the whole ers Now I already had the “error level – workshop” twice within a week. On the outside, however, it stands well there. The pumping up still lasts forever – or felt it no longer reaches the top. I had to stop the procedure “Insert on” in the last attempt after several minutes, because I simply had no time left. But when I pressed again on “Normal”, I could at least at the front again an immediate At home I took my second VCDS measure and read out the error memory of the level control. (The first time was a connection for a few minutes after I finally got the device) I was able to make some findings so far. 1. picture (excerpt of my first VCDS tour) 07.01.25 picture 2,3 & 4 second reading: 14.01.25 I would like to express myself again This has led to an unlikely success experience on my part the last time, and in case of doubt I am encouraged to try it myself! LG Jan EDIT: I will take a closer look at the usual suspects as in the other threads (coupling rods, level sensors, relays, and valves) at the next opportunity. My hope is that this extreme inertia in the future is only possible if I am able to get to know you. I would also like to thank the rapporteur for his excellent report.
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Volvo V70 R
Moin, I play with the thought of getting a Volvo V70 R, but I’m not really in the topic, only by reading in forums like here for example. That it is a lover car and therefore with costs is quite conscious to me, however I have no idea about the price. I could read that the 2.3 with front drive and hand shift are very popular and so I found the following car. I found this offer at mobile.de:https:/ /m.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Volvo V70 R First registration: 07/1997 Kilometer: 314.752 km Fuel: petrol Price: 6.700 € Would be nice if someone could tell me something about it. Best regards and thank you very much!
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Floor mats?
Hello, Since my driver mat looks kind of rough, I look for new ones. Unfortunately, so it seems, there are always complete sets with mats at the back. Apart from many mats from third-party manufacturers I find hardly anything in the net (admittedly, I have not yet made it to the dealer …) The current mats – oh yes, it is a V70 Bj 2008) are already quite thin. In my former V70 the parts were always nice thick and pulled up at the edge. Son thin stuff wi i didn’t know that in the current car. Therefore, the question whether someone has a tip – a neat mat – as far as possible only the front … Thanks and a nice weekend Frank
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V70 – D5 vs. D4?
Dear Volvo friends, I have a V70 D5 Momentum with 185 HP, EZ 06/2008 and 140,000 Km with which I am very satisfied. Now my friend offered me this V70 for a surcharge of 4,000.http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Now I am unsure. He has more kilometers but 5 years younger. What do you think? Should I accept the offer? Thank you for your help Andreas
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1-2 questions about the XC 60
Moin moin. We are close to an XC 60 to Leasen, at the moment we are still driving Tiguan. My questions to the experienced Volvo drivers, it is worth taking the family package? Children are 7-9? Sounds good with the seats. Then still to drive? Diesel 190 ps with or without all-wheel drive? Or the petrol engine? Of the mileage we are full in the petrol range (about 12000 per year). Planned is an XC 60 R design in brown metallic. 20 inches, everything at assistants as well as harman and kardon soun. d. Panorama roof ect.
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Wheels 19″ and 235/35R19
Hello, I plan to buy new tyres 235/35R19 incl. rims for the summer. Now my question, are steering fittings/limiters necessary? So far I have installed the 225/55R16.
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Problems / defect heatable windshield
Moin, I hope you can help me. Our elk is in Lower Saxony and always under a carport, so that an icy windshield has absolute rarity value. Today it was at least a little frozen with the elk, so that my wife wanted to try the front window heating this morning, but then scratched again, because nothing happened. Tonight I wanted to try if you can at least “feel” the disc heating, outside temperature Ca minus 2.5 degrees. In urban traffic, I always felt the disc temperature by hand at the traffic lights, inside and outside. At other electric consumers only the driver’s seat heating ran. Inside I had the feeling that it became minimally warm, but I could also be wrong, because I had only set the ventilation to 0 after about 2 minutes. From the outside there was no difference to feel the side windows. Besides, I noticed that the disc heating turned off after 3-4 minutes independently (have s After what I have read here about the de-icing effect one should also feel the heating power or? Automatic switching off is also in the operating instructions, but this should take place at the earliest after 10 minutes or? Do you have an idea where the error lies? “Does” the disc, if there is no ice and does not work? If it does not work, it would be in the error memory and can be read out, or can one d I hope you have an idea.
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Charge the battery with the solar sliding roof!?
Hello municipality, I had the idea that in winter, if you do not need the solar ventilation, the “feeling” energy would have to be too good for our stressed infotainment battery. Is that possible (even with small modifications)!? Because what is enough to operate the fan motor, should be good for the battery even if the voltage is above 13V. Ignition off, solar ventilation on, with a relay and a diode redirect the solar current to the battery!? Thinkan sets are in demand here! This is just the right thing for a winter holiday (long service life!!) MfG. WD-V10