Hello together. Have a problem with my XC 90, for a long time already. So I’m going, it’s been a long time, since a lot of sudden the PDC off, so off to the friendly, and computer on it, he told me I didn’t have one in the system, but I had it with me during the new purchase and also paid for it. Was already quite strange, a few months later a lot then the alarm system out, which annoyed me quite a lot. Well and finally, I have a battery emptying in a factory sta id the error message SRS maintenance needed to stand on the display. So I was quite desperate and am back to the friendly one, but this time where different. So diagnostic device to it and wait what the thing says, but nothing came, car didn’t want to say what’s going on and the friendly one didn’t know any more. But since he saw that I installed gateway and Parrot, the answer came, a machined vehicle, because I had diverted electricity from the hand-held compartment. the network via vehicle-specific cables, so this should also be a problem. I have also installed a part with which I can feed a video source, the current comes from the center console where the cigarette lighter is installed. So it has all felt until it gradually out much !!! Should everything jam off, according to friendly ones, and come again to the diagnostic measurement, but it happened again nothing. In the special diagnostic display you can see different building blocks, which should eige To be green, the first green is the rest all red, also good, but driving still does the good Xc90. I got in response, that’s the hammer made vehicle. Well, I achieved something good, there are great tips in the forum, so alarm system is checked and removed, see there, battery leaked, and smelled really messy. At Ebay I found a used of n old S60 so risk and ordered, built in and see there, it made noise again. Now to my other Problems, maybe someone can help me, would be very grateful because some things are also important for TÜV. Thanks in the above LG Matthias
Author: 00c12f
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XC90 R-Design US Model!!!
Hello together, I know that the US model questions have been discussed here more often, but to my question I have found no answer here. Maybe someone knows each other??? I currently live in the USA and bought me last year a 2012 XC90 R-Design with 3.2l AWD………super car!!! Of course everything is in English (miles, temperature, etc.)………Now I have heard that it should be possible with navigation system by update, everything on the desired language … and to the front lights (Xenon with adaptive curve light) I also have a question………….are they also made of plastic in the German model and do they have an E-sign somewhere???? Or is that not absolutely necessary for the TÜV??? The other parts(rear lights,displays) all have an E-sign, in the front only SAE and DOT……….. Thanks already for your help Mario
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My New Omega B 2,0 16V
Hello guys, now it’s finally happened – we finally bought a new Omega – hurra. Was not easy, but we think we did the right thing. First we were offered an Omega B Edition 100 with almost 8000 km, which unfortunately was sold so quickly – too bad. But now we have another, perhaps better one: Year of construction 09/1998 Omega CD Reflection Caravan 2.0 16V – with new KAT 145000 KM anthracite metallic leather equipment Xenon headlight seat heater ung – it doesn’t really work yet – but I’m in on climate automation – hammer, was previously only “normal” used – in an Omega A!! On-board computer CD radio – not soo bad height adjustable front seats (without memory) 4 x window lifter root wood (well – you have to get used to it) Aluminium rims 15 inches in the doors exit lights – how cool !!! removable trailer coupling The rust test really resulted in very low edge rust on the rear wheel runs, but is soon made (me n father is screwdriver ) – is really nothing. Also from below – everything top !! Timing belts were made before almost 30000 KM – so still quiet, but let me do it anyway, sure is safe !! A nitter nail new Lambda probe – the old one has smoked from me on the way home from the seller (but the seller pays – really correct!!!) Well, that was it with the vehicle for now, but have another question – the light switch for the xenon ́s – he does not snap in, i.e. I can “floating from off over STA” NIGHT turn to ABLENDLICHT – must that be so ???? I mean, it doesn’t affect the lamps, but still…. Thank you for reading this (perhaps useless) post as well. Michael
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Coupling problems !!
Hello dear community have already read a few things in the search function but somehow I didn’t get smarter.. it’s about the following: have a Volvo V50 2.0 Diesel, JG 2010 clutch set, two-mass swing wheel, encoder and taker cylinder (located in the gearbox) I completely changed 1 week everything went well, but then the clutch pedal disappeared down and gears didn’t go in.. again aired out, 20 min it was good, then again as before.. to me someone still told, since ss you have to air this model “specially”. I am myself a mechanic and have a ventilator, which should not be the case.. would be happy if someone could help me here, am in despair thanks already in advance.
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Does nobody really want him? Volvo S40 2.4…
Because I need more space, I want to sell my S40. Despite the fact that I have changed a lot and the mileage for the engine is almost nothing, the demand seems very low. Maybe someone needs a safe, reliable winter car here?https://suche.mobile.de/vehicles/details.html?id=268715731
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Luggage compartment cover Opening problem
Hello , on the topic of case cover does not sporadically open, I have found many answers, but I do not seem to find the right one, so please note the right link. Problem: Lid opens only about 10 mm out of the lock and does not drive further up. Slowly open the lid against the hydraulics by hand, then everything works again for some time. Problem is also with running motor (to exclude a power supply problem). Can it be the rotary angle sensor be? (Phaeton Built 12/2015) Thank you Johannjakob
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Start problem, only runs at the second start
Hello together, I have been recently owner of a nice 2008 Phaeton. And I already have a small problem and it only runs on the second start, i.e. the first start he dies directly off and when I start the ignition and start it renews it runs. Of course, due to the breakdown of the voltage various undervoltage errors are present. I have already replaced the batteries with original batteries according to the instruction, because I had the assumption that the starter battery at the s tarten collapses. But this didn’t help, so I just swapped the two relays for on-board grid and start, i.e. opener swapped for clasp and see it starts wonderfully the first time. Now I would need a schematic to check what exactly I am bridged here or maybe someone already had the same problem. I’m looking forward to your answers LG Ruhl
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MKL and clacking at the V6 suddenly
Moin dear community! Since yesterday, my engine has been clapping heavily. Especially at speeds of over 2000. The engine control light is also constantly shining. That suddenly came on the highway at about 160-180, so nothing supernatural. I searched the forum today, but the symptoms are always different… With me it came suddenly and stayed… The engine runs unround, but could still come home (10-15Km). Today read out memory, which shows only rev meters(?!?!) So Hydrostössel should If it were valves, I wouldn’t have gone home… what else could it be? What could it be? Thank you!
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Battle my Omega B 2.0 16 V, bj 96
Hello Opelgemeinde, I wanted to finish the Ommi yes, until I got a bargain car ( the same, younger with climate ). Since I had to remodel some parts, the rest is now for sale. So report and tell you what you need with price idea. Maybe we get rid of it so completely and the parts live on. Alas, the color is jungle green. He also has rear spoiler in car color. Motor has run 216t km and runs and runs… Aa.B.
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Voltage fluctuations Volvo XC70, year 09/2000, model 2001
Hello, I have a problem with my Volvo V70 XC, automatic, year 09/2000, model 2001. After reading “battery voltage low” in the on-board computer, I held a voltage meter to the vehicle. Result: the alternator has delivered too little power. In the forum I could read, which is very likely the LIMA controller defective, so I changed it. After testing the on-board voltage I could see the following phenomenon: on the on-board voltage In the boot, only 12V can be measured, in the engine compartment, the voltage varies between 12.5 and 14.2V. So changing the controller did not work. In addition, the starter no longer sprints, but perhaps the one is related to the other. Does anyone have an idea what can be defective on my vehicle? Would be grateful for any answer.