MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Turbocharger V10 TDI

    Hello, it’s time for me, both turbochargers have to be replaced at my V10 TDI (2005). The workshop requires 5-6T Euro for it. Is this the normal price, someone knows a workshop in 200km radius of Hamburg that makes something so cheaper?

  • What engine??

    Dear Moose community, since there are a lot of different engines in Volvo, I would like to know which roots my C70II MJ2007 2.4 (petrol, 5 Zyl. suckers) has. I was recently told by a farmer, where we were on holiday, that this engine was from Audi. I have not further deepened on this topic, but it has made me curious. I have not found 4 rings yet. Actually, I assumed that the 5 cylinder engines Swedish Urspru ng. Please spare me comments that 140 hp is too little for this car. In Ösiland we have a limit of 130 km/h. He makes it!!! Thank you in advance for your help and a nice contemplative 7th Dec.

  • Heating / ventilation

    Hello werte Forumsgemeinde, da my omi after KWS exchange and new petrol pump runs again *joy* I want to get to the last “construction site” now… My heating or ventilation has a problem – he wants to heat, but if I stand on the gas the ventilation flaps close – go from the gas I hear a “beat” noise from the lower part of the amature board – as if a ventilation flap opens up then hot air comes up. This happens no matter in which S I also hear a “hissing” noise from the area from the heating elements. I think there is a hose off or leaks somewhere. Question: how do I get the vacuum hoses from the ventilation switch? Oh yes: have found a vacuum valve with two connections in the driver’s footroom behind the safety box, which has an electric connection and where a blue vacuum hose goes in – on the other side is NOT a key. lauch… ???? Thank you for your help! Greetings Rico 97’er Omi B Caravan 2,0 16V climate (no automatic air conditioning), switch, gas system and 288′ on the clock 🙂

  • Oel Loss – Turbo Problems – HELP!

    First of all: I’m a woman and I don’t have a plan of cars! In addition, we live in France and I can’t translate everything the workshop said to me word by word, but I still need your help! We have an Opel Omega Edition 2.5DTI 6 cylinders. First there were problems with an injection pump that was changed. It was found that the turbo is probably making strange noises. Since the Omega also loses a little oil (is really not much, but wanted to cancel it). assen) we brought him directly to the Opel workshop. On the first day nothing was found, so we left it there another day. On the second day we were told that the oil probably drips somewhere at the entrance/exit of the turbo. It could probably become a big problem, because where the oil comes air is sucked in and when the oil comes into the engine it spins through until it gives up the mind. (I understand at least). SO: Alone the dismantling would probably take 3 hours, since nn find the problem, fix it (if there is a problem at all) and then screw everything together again at 70 euros the hourplus possibly spare parts is definitely too expensive for us! Did anyone ever have this case? Does it really pay to have it looked up or rather sell it? Other workshop let look again drasuf? Have already had the parallelism made, new battery, new injection pump plus transfer from D to F… Help!

  • Omega 2.0 16V heating no longer works

    Hello, the following problem, heating is not right despite new thermostat and new water pump. Engine temperature is between 92 and 95 degrees now have the presumption that the heat exchanger makes sluggish although both cooler hoses that go into the interior warm up. Funny is also that when I have the cover from the balance tank on and about 3000 & min. hold the heater warm and temperature goes down to 90 degrees has one of you still ne idea? thank you in advance

  • MK7 Cabrio Deck

    Hello For 3 days I am also a proud owner of a convertible but now the anger is already going on My E Covered spins somehow. I can open the cover quite normally and close when the passage is out. Then it’s the garnix again (as if no electricity arrives) and I have to switch to manually and today it even went with inserted passage. Where can the error be? Then two more questions: Where do I get oil for the hydraulic pump from and where do I have to fill it in? At me in the cigarette lighter no cables are connected and I also find no how do I get it to run? And no answers that I should take a lighter because my navigator and mobile phone do not work with it. Thanks already

  • Car comes with a tank filling 300km far.

    Hello! Now that the 2nd tank is empty so fast, the error has to be found and fixed. Of course, I can’t afford a workshop, unless it’s no different. I don’t really race. Sometimes a little faster from the green traffic light, so that behindmen can get through. And in the city I usually drive 60km/h in the 5th gear. Nevertheless, my tank is again on reserve shortly after the 300km mark. Otherwise I noticed that the car at the kick-down also sometimes h And how far do you get with your escorts?

  • Video in memory of F1 killed

    I found a video that reminds me of the drivers and participants who were killed in the F1. I don’t know if this has been posted here before, but I didn’t find anything. Here’s the link. I find the music still gives you the rest, but everyone should decide for themselves. MfG BennyL.

  • Preparing door(s) for painting

    So, … it’s time, aluminum corrosion at all doors. Twice right doors at the top of the window bay strip and clearly visible. And twice left, down there at the back corner. Keyless entry and pull-in aid are to be considered – with my Phaeton. Some things you could prepare before being driven to the paintr. (And of course everyone says that all this is done on site. But who has for example dismantled the door gluing, knows what everything is broken. ann … ) Procedure seems to me to be useful as follows and there are already helpful contributions to some points. A few first links to this: https://www.motor-talk.de/…/tuergriff-demontieren-t6928576.html?… https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…adventuregeraet-schloss-t6750981.html?… https://www.motor-talk.de/…eren-beifahrerseite-t5939835.html?… https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…rleiste-abmontieren-t5811899.html?… https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…adventuregeraet-schloss-t6750981.html?. . https://youtu.be/A4OZhfT_WYU?si=2okLfi8DYgQZdKPP Possible order (to be checked) In advance: m.E. the door lock can remain installed on the unit carrier and also the ZZH (must be suspended only the Bowdenzug) gaskets and dampings remain unaffected 1. Door panel from 2. Lock cylinder removed 3. Window frames and support frames dismantle 4. Unit carrier dismantle (disc drive in position) 5. Door handle with Keyless-Entry cabling expand 6. Middle trims abba 8. Degrading window bay strips

  • Air conditioning – Can you deactivate actuators?

    A question to the specialists who work air conditioning in my Phaeton, however, I have the following problem: If it’s really hot in the car, the air conditioning system is running normally, but then tries to conduct the cold air over the large grille on the windscreen. However, this actuator or the corresponding valve does not seem to work, i.e., you hear something is moving, but there is no cold air coming out of the grid and also no longer from the open nozzles. Since I don’t want to disassemble the entire dashboard my question: Can the actuator or the connected flap be deactivated via VCDS? Or can you separate the actuator from the power supply without much effort? Or is there any other way to solve the problem without disassembly of the dashboard? It’s enough for me if the cold air comes out of the nozzles on the dashboard.