Hello I’m used to a lot of things from the old TDI. there were startorgies up to the wave. my d5 seems to be ticking something at the moment, although I’m not very, how bad THAT is. usually it’s preheated – then understandably there’s no problem. however, I start it like just at -10°, all night standing in the snow – he is ticking, and indeed I pre-heated three times and then started (~5sec). sometimes something shrugged, like a cylinder – at the fourth try it went now the thing would not be bad for me at all, if I had in mind not the story with the nozzles. can jeman calm me down or make me aware whether my current experiences can be explained with bad nozzles ? or are it u u. only the glowing pencils ? otherwise there are no problems, even with around the NULL just impeccable. normal and thoughtless or should I make myself thoughts ? thank you
Author: 00c12f
-
Rear lights XC 90 conversion design from MJ 2007 in BJ 2005? Cooler emblem 2010
Moin dear Volvo community, after I have decided to drive my rideable chair for all eternity due to the no longer offered engine, I have the following plans. First of all I would like to install the rear lights in my XC 90 (2005), which were installed from 2007 (please do not have a design discussion at this point, is just a matter of taste). My question is now whether this is possible without any problems. Are the corresponding lamp carriers with each rear light, or would they have to Are the plug-in contacts of this carrier identical? I don’t want any crafting on my car here. And where we are – is the new radiator emblem 2010 also available on the old radiator grille? I already got the price, only nobody could say if it fits and can’t give it back then. I mean it would have given an inconspicuous change to the radiator grille in 2007 (the chrome border seems more massive) or I would be mistaken. Then maybe the e Emblemstrebe a little too short. Maybe someone knows something. If someone wants to switch the taillights with me (like to be), I am ready for every shame. Have a nice Sunday in the round! – Marcus
-
Help! Opel Omega 2.6 V6 Lambdaprobe defective engine block lamp lights permanently
Hello together, I’m back again. Or rather, my Omega is already having problems again. Since I was so well advised by you last time, I’ll get back to you again and hope you can help me again. I’ve already read through a lot of posts but somehow didn’t find the right one. But now on the subject. My engine block lamp lights up permanently. Yesterday I was at the Opel dealer in the neighboring town. Actually because of another problem. longer sliding operation and then light gas give some of the gear lost and either after a short time or S-key hit the gear again with a jerk. However, the lamp also started with the car and fork key. Then the Omega had no more power and I had to turn off the ignition first. After the engine started again everything went again. The lamp was off again and the Omega switches again. Since I have 100,000 km on the clock, the Opel dealer recommends He didn’t want to promise me that the error was fixed. I nevertheless agreed. The fun cost was € 327,00 (Aua). So far I have only driven about 40 km and had no gear loss. But in order to be able to make a precise statement I have to drive a few km. To the engine block lamp the Opel workshop said: Probably one or both lambda probe (n) is defective. The values would change too little. can not reset the error without a new Lambda probe and would first replace the one and then possibly the second probe and then reset the error. Since the workshop requires € 197.00 per probe without installation, I first refused and thought about correcting the error myself. What I have learned so far: – there would have to be 4 probes (per cat one before and one after) – the 2 probes behind the cat are probably not quite so important (only for finer adjustment) – al 4 probes are identical (possibly a cross exchange is possible) – it would have to be a 4 cable probe – a probe varies depending on the supplier and manufacturer on the Internet from approx. € 55 to € 110 (Universal probe to Bosch probe) – the Bosch probe has the Bosch number: 0 258 006 176 But now finally my questions: – do I read my previous information correctly? – how do I find out which probe is exactly defective? (can I measure the probes with a multimeter? If yes, where and what exactly?) – does e s Makes sense to exchange both probes in front of the cat? – which probe is recommended, which rather not or are there no differences? Very important for me! Does someone have pictures where the probes sit exactly and where they are plugged in??? In advance I thank you and hope you can help me further. Greeting – Michi
-
Daytime running light
Hello OpelianerI Have the following Proble. Drive an Omega 2,2 L gasoline, 4 turquoise, automatic. Limusine. As with us starting from ^15.11. driving with daylight law is I wanted to convert the OMI to daylight, but finder did not find the plug for the relay. have already disassembled the whole right side but found no plug. Safety is to their place No.8 cable goes away, aber plug find Njente. who can give me information for this vehicle where the plug is located. An old Opel Leiden. de type and each vintage is different. it is to stick up trees Claudius1944
-
Keyless engine start/stop malfunction.
Moin Moin, has had a Phaeton GP2 in my possession for two days. My problem: I open the car without a key and start the engine without a key.. after a 10 min drive I can no longer get the car out. Then I have to put the key in the ignition lock and manually stop the engine. Then I can no longer get it without a key. After a break of about 30 min. I can start the car again without a key and even stop if it didn’t run too long. Someone has an idea?
-
Battery empty!!! Help!!!
Hello dear Phaeton lovers, I can now announce my first Phaeton as my property for a few weeks now and had no problems at all… until the day before yesterday! Even in advance, it is a V6 3.2 gasoline from 2002. The problem: When I came to my babe the day before yesterday morning, the dear car did not open with my radio key. There was still a very weak light on the turn signal, but that was it. So I went with the key into the keyhole and got manually When turning around in the ignition lock: GAR NO MUX! Then I started the car with the emergency start (key to the left and then to the right), everything worked out immediately. Only all settings had disappeared, long-term statistics, time (the beautiful analog clock turned and turned until I have set the time by GPS again) etc. When I set everything again, I was able to leave normal and everything was good… Then I turned off the car and after 2 S yesterday and this morning then again the same dilemma! From a service life of approx. 5 hours the car is absolutely flat! When looking at the battery (left in the trunk) I saw that there was already a new battery installed there. Gem. of a friend car connoisseur, however, this is an acid battery (white battery), which should not have been installed with me, because of cycles or such things… So I have the car immediately with this b car connoisseurs connected to his analyzer and had the fault memory read out. There was actually nothing exciting except many messages because of too low onboard voltage etc. and once a short circuit or something similar in the memory seat of the driver side. So, now I could of course buy a new onboard battery tomorrow and hope that that was the fault. But I’m also afraid that I will buy the battery and do nothing else! . already experience with such a problem? That was very long now, but I wanted to describe the problem as accurately as possible. I hope you can help me!!! Thanks already for your efforts! Many greetings from Wolfsburg André
-
2.5DTI Motor-stamping device
Hello, I had the main thermostat changed at my Omega 2.5DTI and still have problems with the engine pumping it takes a very long time until it has reached operating temperature. After 10 minutes drive the pointer of the display starts to hike. I got the old upgraded thermostat from Opel but that has destroyed the installer, has jumped out of the lead I wonder if he has installed the new thermostat properly. How warm will he get with you my safft on cal like today 80 degrees. Greetings Andreas
-
loud squeaking
Hi, everybody, for some time now I’ve noticed a quite loud noise when I’m starting. Now I’ve tried a little bit about when exactly it’s happening. As soon as the car rolls in slow motion, it squeaks somewhere, almost as if a train slows down. At the very slow start and when rolling out, just stop there. I don’t kick the brake. As soon as I try to slow down carefully to see if something changes, I’m already standing still, because almost no speed. There’s no change in the sound. A little bit faster, and the sound is gone. Does anyone have an idea what I can look at? Thank you very much Mario
-
V-belt squeaks
Hello, I’ve had the problem for a few days that my V-belt squeaks after the start 1-2 minutes. Thought it was due to the weather. Then to the FOH. It was an automatic tensioner, with the Rimenen everything okay….. good. He then put V-belt spray on it, then it was quiet. After 100 KM it is back again. According to his PC there is meanwhile a shorter belt, but I should wait for the first time. Does anyone know the problem?
-
My poor car….
Hello! After years I report again….Yes, actually….no problem there was in the last years with my 1999 V70 I . Yesterday on the highway nice downhill to over 200km/h accelerated. Then let off and down to 130km/h. Then came the oil lamp. She went on briefly, out again and then came back flashing after a few seconds. Then the horror moment….He slowed down and I was really in shock….I gave a quick gas and heard a rat/crack. Immediately aisle out and thank God came a resting place on which I was then only rolled out with a switched off engine. ADAC called. He meant right after my description – “storage damage”! Despite that we tipped in a liter of oil and waited 2 minutes. Engine on and the clapping went off again…..immediately! Is this really scrappy, as the guy meant? So, because of economic total damage and 2000€ Reperatur!?!?? Towing to Lübeck cost me 395,68€ t. I urgently ask for an assessment, even if from a distance. Maybe I can also make a video….but I don’t want to torture him and start him again! I miss him so much now….Oh my God! The engine is externally healed….