Author: 00c12f

Hello, have a big problem with my Omega B, BJ 1998, x20xev. The Omega always goes out after 5 minutes and starts again after 20 minutes. The error occurs even if it runs in the garage in the stand gas. I had the error read out and it should be the crankshaft sensor. I changed the crankshaft sensor and the dis ignition module. Unfortunately without success. I noticed that the MKL lamp emits a flash code, 1, 3, 7 and that also without a plug-in bridge. lying on a relay? Or ..? In advance thank you

Moin Omeganer/innen,first of all a “Obituary” *sniff*: Yes, he had retired, my 2.0 16V CD Bj.95, the Macks increased more and more, the age rust, engine leaks massively, injection system in the dut, A-waves, steering, brakes, ZV, timing belts etc. etc….. Sure, you could have saved him, with a lot of work, time and money, but he was simply through. Even with his own achievements it would have been necessary to make him TÜV fine without cosmetics. A R.I.P. in the press would be his fate had been in a month, but what a “cart dealer” offered me, I could not say no (over 1000 Euronen). Should he enjoy his life again on his old days and from next month on through Africa “romp”, he earned it! Enough now, otherwise I still get “Pipi” in the eyes. Stories that life writes: So on last Monday made an appointment to give off, in the morning self-registered, at noon with “KKZ” to Hanover, left, cashed, on foot returned Bzw. wanted some food somewhere and then by taxi to the Railway Station. There I see like with another “Cart” buyer a woman with an edition 100 Cara standing and talking. I had time, so once played mouse. Abstract: His offer was about 1k, she wanted 2,5k, I looked at the car by the way, were busy anyway. Computing, thinking, taxi, train consider, the Bj99 in the head like the 100k KM, one year AU/ TÜV… stood well there, new WR on steel and SR on original aluminum, inside clean, varnish ok, clear a few small quirks, so what. When she just wanted to drive away again (they didn’t come “together”, they approached and said: “for 2 I take it”. The rest went by itself, food weed, contract made, bank was paid, MEiner, they brought to the station, ticket still sponsored and with “new” car back home *joy*. I find the quirks just gradually, how the thing with the ZV driver’s door, thread from the day before yesterday, certainly still need your help with some things but that the next few days… I have to get an overview. So far on my “to do” list (are still about 25 points more, but I can get them alone): (if any of you has tips on one or the other point, would be super to post them or send them to the left of here, so far I have been with the “search” weeny successful dbzgl. ) – re NSW does not glow, lamp i.o., Sheche i.O (is yes for both) cable, plug ? – EFH hi/li without function, LED brighter than with the other three buttons – extension “heating console”, lighting “automatic display” (2. from left) def. – Servo ZV driver door without function, ECU reset did not bring – climate compressor does not switch on, pressure is IMO enough in the system, I let the error read out the days once and report me So, and now you have a nice weekend, I am grateful for every tip, the Omega is really a nice A uto, you can’t do without one… Greetz MAC

servus, since the temperature problems have become more and more severe in recent times, today I went to the cooling system and cleaned it properly, because the water looked quite disgusting. I opened the drain screw on the cooler and emptied a part of the cooling system. a rather disgusting broth will come out. before I had in a bottle water a (attention: no joke!) two-phase dishwasher tab dissolved and the solution + water into the circuit tipped. motor run la food, heating completely turn up (automatic air conditioning on “hi” temperature, ventilation on stage 1), so that the valves are fully open and also flushed there. allow the whole soup to circulate for a good 10 minutes with running motor & closed balance tank. without lid the water is not warm enough, the system pressure is necessary.In between check again and again whether the thermostat has opened. continue to open the drain screw with running motor and at the same time keep the balance fill it with pure fresh water until rel. clear water comes. after a short time, the thermostat will close again. let the motor cool off & let it cool, drain screw back up and drain water out. fill the cooling system again with clear water and let it run. it should not circulate ice-cold water into a hot block! this can cause cracks in the cylinder head. the water should look a little better now, so let the motor run up thermostat again, drain screw on and off top fresh water. very important: repeat the washing process until the water no longer forms foam! this dishwasher crepe must be completely out again! also the thermostat should be open as always as possible, otherwise the broth does not come out everywhere again. close the cooler over the flow empty, 4.5 l glycantine pure and fill up with water. cool system properly ventilate and is good. effect so far: temperature needle is at gaaaaaanz just above 90 grad fixed (before 95 – 98) and goes after 10 min empty run to 92,5. simply try out, cool water should be changed anyway every two years. Greetings, Thorsten

Hi I have an Opel Omega MV6 Built in 1994. In the middle armrest is a telephone holder someone can tell me what kind of phone Oel installed as standard? Or what kind of brand it could be.

Servus Omeganer, I finally have a vacation and want to get my fat guy back on track and have a few questions to the experts. Have the hoses to the throttle flap through and cleaned, the thin hose is so completely consistent. But if you connect it to the throttle valve housing no air goes through (mouth to hose breathing). Is this OK or does it have to go through air? I cleaned the riser tube, a lot of oil coal came up. I am looking for a black hole which makes my oil disappear. All about 1000km missing 1.5 l (BC warning light is reported) Does there have any idea what it can lie about? I can close it; No oil is lost (dry) No oil is burned (no blue smoke, no strange smell) No water in the oil or other Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa t. Can it be that it was on the slicked riser tube? It was not completely dense but already pretty dirty. Thanks for the help