Author: 00c12f

  • Feeling something vera… from Fiat

    A friendly hello to all forum participants I ordered a Fiat Panda 1.1 8V yesterday. Delivery time is 8 weeks here in Hamburg, the joy is already there. Incl. my old Golf III (16 years) scrapping. But – according to the brochure in the technical data the engine attracts 15 sec. from 0-100 km/h, which is still acceptable. But suddenly Fiat offers the 1.1 Eco with 119g/km emission, which is good, economical etc. But no information about the technical data on the current Brochure at the dealer, he needs now 20 sec. from 0-100 km/h ! Did I happen to find the latest technical data on the homepage, the old ones are still standing there at the same time ………what should I say about it? The friendly dealer pointed out to me already two weeks ago that I got a new engine allegedly even better and more economical now with 119 g/km instead of 135 g emission. Because I also have to save and only want the 1.1 8V engine, 15 sec. would be just for me I’m a bit disappointed!!! I called my dealer today and he didn’t know anything about it! But said that the gearbox was translated differently, but the engine would be the same. Why is Fiat deliberately slowing his engine so much, I can only shake my head. My opinion is: The demand is currently enormous after the panda, and now Fiat would like to get the engine to work. 1.2 but the 1.1 is technically slowed down to make it so unattractive to drive. Does anyone here have experience with the new Eco Motor 119g ? Gruss js-js

  • My Punto Cult has died

    Hello, my Punto Cult went to waste. Here are the pictures…

  • after the blacksmith’s art the wheel bearing at the rear right

    Hello Mazda driver ! If I had known that now also my wheel bearing back right would have been necessary only a thread !!!! So after the new brake discs the biker has to be changed…..not 28tkm yet !!!!! Back left is already new ….I think already after about 16tkm in the A….. so far so good……But now comes!!!!!!! A foreign workshop has to pay for the hub with camp 208€…. then makes about 280€ all inclusive for me (original parts immediately available) ) At the Mazda dealer it was said the following dimensions on last Tuesday: The part costs 102€ + three-quarters of hours makes altogether 170€ incl. multi-drive! The workshoprmin was fixed for the 02.05. 10:30 h !!!!!! On Thursday my wife went to the phone when the Mazda workshop called…….The part is not available in all of Germany….lasts until the end of 20th calendar week….or I pay 45€ on it ….then there is a small part more and I could come on 02.05 then 215€ all inc lusive!!! I rushed down the stairs calling the workshop and wanted to hear it again!!! Yes indeed not available , hilarious the other workshop (not Mazda) can ́s get ….I got angry spoke up the brake discs (Thread Japanese forge art) and from 215€ it became 200€ ……….how on bazaar My question: do you want to fuck me or what …. am I on bazaar or where !Why is the part not available???? what is the difference (45€) hub + wheel bearing where sit the 45 € more ???????? What belongs to the rear wheel bearing right ??????????

  • Welding primers in conjunction with TIG welding

    Hello welding professionals, the following task is short for me: At a car. new sheet metal parts are to be welded. Partially bluntly welded, but also overlappingly welded points. I want to do both by means of TIG; MMA is also available. Since in particular overlapping spot-welded sheets in the overlap area can hardly be provided with corrosive protection, I wanted to treat these overlap areas beforehand with so-called welding primers. Does this work as I thought, or how do you solve the problem better? However, I don’t have a MIG/MAG welding machine. In the case of TIG welding, the sheet metal parts to be welded must be meticulously clean. How does welding primers or any other corrosion protection work? Is there something suitable? Look forward to numerous contributions to your experience on this topic. Best regards – Reinhard

  • Underbody protection off?

    Evening, I recently made the following unpleasant observation under the car on the outside (see pictures). Car is an A3 8P. Is exactly the place where I always put the jack on. I suppose that’s the underbody protection that dissolves there? And that under there rust? What kind of strut is that part of the frame at all? Does that have to be removed in the workshop first or could an absolute layman get there? Thanks for tips in advance.

  • HU failed due to damage in the wheelhouse. How best to repair?

    Hello! A vehicle has fallen by the HU due to damage in the wheelhouse at the rear right. At the place is usually a metal sheet attached to the body, on which the pipe from the tank filler nozzle to the tank is additionally attached. When I had changed the shock absorbers 1.5 years ago, around the place was much wet dirt. Unfortunately there is no plastic covering there. I removed the dirt then, so that by the accumulated moisture and the It was too late and the rust was already there. Actually I wanted to take care of the place, but then completely forgot it. Now I was at the HU and was very surprised when the examiner suddenly stabbed around with a screwdriver in the back of the wheelhouse. The examiner dropped the vehicle (aside from a slightly adjusted headlight) because of it. I can only understand this very conditionally. The metal part in itself ha from my point of view, no relevance to the statics of the self-supporting body. The tank tube is sufficiently fastened above and below, so that there is no problem here either. Only the hole – thanks to the examiner – now created could be relevant. If I had thought of the place before, I would have done something in front of the HU that you do not see it. Probably not every examiner would have looked there either. That is at least my experience. Now he has unfortunately seen it. So it is repaired. Then: Weld metal sheet over it? Welding points or along the complete edges? Are there special requirements? Must there be welding points on all 4 sides or would it be enough on 2 sides? Full surface glued with body glue is not allowed, is it? It also has to be in some way tight so that no water comes into the small hole. The tank tube nearby can stay on to weld, right? Inn I’m thinking about whether I should give it to a body builder (what could cost such a thing?) or whether I try it myself. I don’t have much experience with bodywork. I’ve never welded anything like this before. I’d then go to a rental workshop where there should be a corresponding welding machine. With photos. Thank you very much for your advice.

  • Underfloor derusting.

    Hello. I’m not sure if I’m right in the section of the forum, if not postpone it. I want to refurbish my Audi 80 B4 Avant. Now it’s about the underbody. At one point there’s good rust. So far I’ve done: extensively scraped everything with screwdriver, brush and fertan pinned on it (for first protection) currently it looks like on the picture. But I’m not really satisfied with it. How do I best do that? Please leads etc ignorant On tools I have: Handbrushes Brush for cordless screwdrivers Scharber For flex disks (unfortunately because of sparks in the tank) Sandblast gun Admittedly, I have never rusted a bottom. My procedure would have been now: Remove rust as far as possible, Fertan on it, underbody protection. By the way, when “pulling” with the screwdriver I didn’t get through anywhere Or are there other / better ways? Thank you already

  • Golf 6 speaker upgrade – with Focal Set power amp necessary?

    Hello together, I have recently been owner of a Golf 6 and would like to improve the sound. The RCD 310, with which I am also satisfied, is not to be exchanged (also due to the optics). Since my knowledge is not very large, I have read in the forum here. The plan would now be to replace the front factory speakers with the Focal IFVW Golf 6 set, including reasonable door insulation. Can anyone report about this combination or improve the sound of the actual A subwoofer should not (for the first time) be installed. Thanks in advance for your opinions.

  • DS7 Accessories

    hello, I once ordered some accessories (amazon & ds dealer). at amazon I ordered a 3x usb hub, a usb stick 32gb and 1 short spiral cable usb a on usb c, so I have 2 usb stick for music & a usb cable for the phone to connect with android car and have tried it out and it works – thanks for the tip FrenchStar afterpart: if I want to use android car, I can’t load the samsung s9+ at the same time inductively because it’s too big together with the usb c plug and the usb connection there is only suitable for data transport and not for charging or. someone a advice or how do you do that further I have ordered a use for the middle armrest – fits also perfectly. are still permanently valve caps with ds logo on it at the ds dealer around the corner I have ordered a ash cup for storing my sugar-free sugar (have currently the old ash cup inside, but does not do well with 4 rings on it) and a d isplayreflex film, both I pick up today. install does the display screen protector a foil that cuts me protective foils for the door entrances and loading edge. lg reini ps: if someone still has interesting accessories for the ds7, just use it

  • DS4 problems

    Hello Vll. can someone help me. My DS4 shows the following error codes, I don’t have to delete them otherwise I can’t drive them. Motor lamp lights up and motor repair is shown. P1336 Crank/Cam Sensor Range / Perfomance S2000PM1/2 misfire ME7.4.5. P1340 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction P1338 #8 MIsfire Circuit – Open Cylinder No.2 misfires ignition coils have already been changed, which only brought 2 days success. ine improvement. Does the car have 2 camshaft sensors? I read that the error codes for the THP motors are not always correct. I am grateful for any help