Hello Motor-Telk’er, Have with my IX35 now about 1500 Km around and can’t quite explain the consumption. Here times my IX at Spritmonitor.de All other IX35 diesels (also 4WD and also with 184PS) are well below my consumption. I try at the moment really fuel saving to drive, but it doesn’t really bring anything. According to onboard computer currently 8.9 l/100Km. How do you drive your IX35 diesel? I always commute between 1700 and 2500 rpm and have almost never more. I drive auc h mostly in the highest possible gear. I am not driving in the city and currently not on the highway. Mostly short distance on the land. When do you fill up your IX35 always or how far do I get when the last bar of the display starts to flash? Hope you can enlighten me/give me tips. I would also be very happy about your experiences.
Author: 00c12f
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Car purchase up to 13.000€±2000€
Hello together, first of all I would like to point out that I have already read a lot here in the forum. Leider I have the impression that I am the more unsure the more I read. There is a lot of talk about problems of the various cars so that the impression arises that there is actually no “reliable” Fzg. anymore. Anyway, I have desired the following: – Size: from middle class (e.g. A4 etc.) , also does not have to be a combi – Motor: Diesel (drive >13tkm p.a.) from 130hp – transmission: no matter, but prefers manual transmission – suspension: no super hard sports suspension, I want to get off relaxed after a longer ride. – Xenon headlight – max. 120tkm mileage – from year 2005 – Price: ca 13t€ ± 2t€ I would like to have a German vehicle. Dream car would be a 530d but it is unfortunately not available at the price, but I find the Passat 3C very nice but unsure about the reliability. To me: I am 30 years old, no children but Freun din, go skiing (bicycle I would want to transport 1x a year, whether on the roof, in the Fzg, or on the trailer coupling).To driving style: I drive normally, rarely over 180kmh but I do not want to drive with 4000U/min at 140kmh on the AB (hope that you understand what I mean). Which vehicles should I look closer and what must I pay attention to? Thank you for the feedback!!! Oh yes, I had the Passat 35i (Bj 89) so far, which still drives with 280tkm with a friend After that a C-Class C280 W202, unfortunately deregistered as I drive many km which was not the case at the time. Now I have an A-Class A170CDI, nice car but unfortunately nothing for long rides..
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Volkswagen Touran fenders, sleepers and doors almost rusted through?
Hello, today I looked at a top-maintained touran at the free dealer. At first glance clean car, top rims, timing belts and interior almost like a new car. But the sills, fenders and doors were almost completely rusted through, according to the dealer only a little paint with brush would help. Ask you paintrs and screwdrivers: The car BJ 2014, 100,000 km ran, why rusting like on the spear, shock absorbers completely rusted, that is mega bad. I don’t know about my previous brands, BMW Renault at all. The car isn’t even old and barely ran anything for a diesel. What’s going on? Where does this massive rust come from. I wanted to look at the car, push on the threshold and that goes through… loud dealer with brush to get rid of…
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Adhesive plastic (outer area)
Hello, I’m looking for a glue that can be used to glue plastic in the outside area. It’s about the wheel running linings of the Opel Corsa in the signature. There the front two shots are torn off on the driver’s side. A “plastic residue” (which is screwed from the wheelhouse) is still left, i.e. it would be glued to plastic. I want to make this provisional before winter, so that it is not completely torn off by the washing system. If it can keep great It is therefore necessary to have a suitable adhesive, which is… a, as tough as possible and does not drip and runs like silicone, so that the body plate is not dirty. b, still holds in small quantities (two points with a diameter of about 1 cm) c, withstands the ambient conditions in the outside area => What is suitable?
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Sandero no test drive possible…. at least short term
Hello,.. wanted or. wants to buy me just a new car , the Sandero and the Twingo were available to choose from.. ( yes I know it are different vehicle classes), but unfortunately you can not test the Sandero at least apparently not in Berlin,… I find very very bad,. because he really interested me, but I don’t buy a car that I didn’t drive a test, .. you can tell me a lot about the driving behavior etc. therefore my attitude to it. it’s not possible to give me a test drive in the short/medium term.. I will probably now tend to the Twingo,…. Too bad, actually,…. I wanted to tell you,… Greetings to all, have always liked to read here and would have liked to become a part of this board, but probably it won’t be anything,…
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Suzuki Jimny Corrosion Protection
Hi, the new JIMNY is optically and technically top for me! But, when looking under the skirt, so when inspecting the underbody, I have serious doubts about the “permanence” of the car. Only bare sheets, screws etc. without further protection. That must rust! I was reminded of the land cruiser. Identical problem. It was completely rusted after 2 years. No flight rust, no massive brown plague where you looked. Does my cloudy eye deceive me? How do you see this?
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Chrysler stratus Cabrio buys taps…
Hi people…… I’m just planning to buy a crysler stratus convertible for myself. Since I don’t have any experience with crysler and also not with convertibles, I wanted to ask if you can give me tips on what I should pay attention to. Maybe someone can tell me how reliable the dare is, because I would want to drive it all year round. (I was already afraid that it is not so reliable) Oh yes, I only plan the little one with 2.0 liter to k unfortunately the big V6 are almost only available with automatic transmission and I don’t want to. In addition, I am a poor boy and I don’t want to have the 10 liters on 100 km Many thanks for your tips in advance….. MFG
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Check exhaust system / error message
The error message “Check exhaust system” was shown to me. Since the car was running perfectly and there was no power drop, the error was only deleted. 3 days later the error message came up again. The error memory was read out and the exhaust gas return valve was renewed. Again 3 days later, the error message appeared again. Then the AGR was “fished”. 3 days later the error message now lights up again. has anyone had the same experience here? VG A. Balz
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Where can I buy a new or outdated Saab TTiD engine?
Hello, I hope someone in the www can help me here. Main Saab 9-3 TTiD engine has unfortunately hung up on the weekend. Due to allegedly too much oil in the tank the engine is now unfit and must be replaced. My Saab factory town has made me an estimate for a new engine and installation that has tilted me smoothly out of the shoes. Now I am looking for one: New or outdated Saab 9-3 TTiD engine that can be installed by an acquaintance for me. ute piece could get? Thank you for your answers !!!! Best regards BabsUK