Hello together, I tried to use tutorials to make sense, now I would have liked to discuss the opinion here with you… It is generally about underbody protection for cars. I have now come up with the following solutions: Solution with “Owatrol oil” Remove rust, while taking care that the rust is not removed too aggressively with heat development. The rust must not seal itself by frictional heat. Several layers “Owatrol oil” brush or spray. Solution with “Rostumwa ndler & Fett, Brunox Rostumwandler und Ropefett was used here. Remove rust, apply the rust converter, let it dry, spray over with grease. Are there any other options? Do you have to consider whether it is a road or offroad vehicle? Grade the sealing and the protective layer e.g. with rope grease, are there any other preservatives? MfG Elektroman99
Author: 00c12f
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Fuel consumption
wanted to ask how the fuel consumption is has bought a Matiz 0,8 with automatic 2 months ago am satisfied so far but come with a tanf filling not 400 kilometers how many kilometers you come so
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Daewoo Matiz Klappert front and back
Hi maybe someone has experience with the Matiz 0.8 which is 10 years old has run about 12000. the little one is so loud that you need hearing protection, seriously it is a strong clapping front and rear to hear of course depending on the road, I wanted to start changing the dampers back times the little swings a bit strong, front I don’t know what the clapping can cause the dampers to make still such a sucking smell while waving back and forth still sounds good ? . Can it be the motor mount that clatters like that ?????? would be grateful about your help b mfg gargoyl
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964 – or rather not???
I’m thinking of buying a 964. Is the purchase of this vehicle recommended, or are the maintenance costs too high (compared to 993 or 996)? What about the loss of value? What are typical and frequent weak points to which I should absolutely pay attention? Are 100,000 km on the clock too much? What should I (or should) invest for such a vehicle? I would be very grateful about tips!
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Alternative to VCDS -> Carport for Deepened Diagnosis Help
Hello guys, I have a problem with my Audi(4B A6) and I have to read out my car and watch it using mevalue block. So real-time data, actuator tests, etc… Now clearly with VCDS set everything is possible what has to do with my Audi. Cost 400€ + laptop -> The only problem is that I can only read out VAG vehicles. I like to be a mechanic and screw for others and therefore less meaningful, but clearly that I think first of all about myself and second line are some And I would be careless now the alternative CarPort. Seems to be able to do a lot at first sight. For all cars! For an extended diagnosis you need licenses as it could be taken from the page (carport.de). So you get to 70€(licenses) + 105€(Dongle AGV 4000 Expert) + laptop. Well, what worries me is whether then really everything works, because this is only an all-purpose reader and not brand specific for VAG. Kan And if it is dependent on the dongle, how much can be read out. But the above mentioned dongle AGV 4000 expert seems to be very good and it supports all protocols. Then there is the AutoDia K509 that can read out apparently a little less protocols, but is a lot cheaper. What is the difference between these two dongles? So I assume that there are no other alternatives. I am happy about the information, how CarPort works and if it is possible all that I have to implement with my car. And is the VCDS software Windows 8 capable, because I would like to get a tablet Gruss Janni:::EDIT:::: there is still the moDiag also seems to be something like CarPort. Can I say anything about it…? Perhaps the comparison or what distinguishes the softwares? I would need the answer a bit quickly because I have a good offer for the Dongle AGV 4000 And the Scandevil should be very good Scandevil Technical data but if I already get a tablet it is superfluous after all nothing can be more than the other… after all everything is further software conditional on what can be adapted to the car everything?! Someone of this opinion? or am I mistaken
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Diagnostic device for cars without OBD II (EOBD)
Hello together, recently bought a Laguna 1 Phase 2 and I would like to look at some live data from the engine control unit. The car is BJ 1998, has the typical for OBD 2 16-pin diagnostic plug, however, it has no OBD2 protocol. I don’t want to spend money on Renault Can Clip, because it is too expensive for me and it doesn’t make any sense to buy the thing if I don’t really need it objectively right now. But maybe there’s something cheaper that you can use. and what would be compatible with the Laguna. I have an ELM327 adapter, but I can’t read it because it only supports OBD II. Do you have a tip for me? Thank you in advance!
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How can I change the damn lamps ?! (Stilo)
Hello. With me is a glare lamp defective. I bought one then and wanted to install it now. However, I just can not get to the box, in which the lamps are… In the instruction is indeed I have to remove a fuse cover ( what I also did), but it is so little space that I can not take out the lamp…. Is there a TricK ?! On the factory town I have no , because of such a lampalia… Otherwise I am really fri eden. Have a Stilo 1.6 16v Thanks already
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General: Set valves
Adjusting valves is much easier than you think. However, the time required is almost proportional to the number of valves. The following is required: common tool set -feeler gauge with suitable division – setting values for inlet and outlet valves -if necessary new valve cover seal – torque wrench when the valve play is set with Shims (metal discs of different thickness): -special tool for holding the valves (this can be easily built by yourself, See the attached pictures) -a tweezer or similar is often helpful -suitable Shims I now describe the procedure for valves with cup plungers and adjustment chimes. For other methods it may be possible to proceed differently. Let’s go: First the valve cover has to be lowered. But to do this you have to decompose various parts depending on the engine before. The screws of the valve cover are generally to be loosened crosswise, from the outside to the inside (if the repair instructions do not prescribe otherwise). The lid should be easily lifted. Now the valve control is open. The most common form is probably two overhead camshafts, where the cams press directly onto the cup plunger (more precisely: on the Shims). Another possibility is an overhead camshaft, whereby the valves are operated via tilting levers. The valve game denotes the game of hissing camshaft (or tilting lever or similar) and the valve plunger (here: the Shim), and that is when the valve is closed. the valve shaft at operating temperature, however, has to be slightly extended, a low play must be present with cold engine. If the valve shaft is too large, there is still play also during operation of the engine. The camshaft constantly loosens from the shock, and then strikes again, which leads to increased noise and wear. In extremely large game the control times are no longer correct, since the valve opens too late and closes too early. If the valve shaft is too small, close This should be clear that the valve play is always measured when the engine is cold. IMPORTANT! If the valve play is too small, the ventlie do not close properly. However, the valves cool mainly through contact with the head, they will then become too hot and burn, i.e. the shaft burns, then they fall into the cylinder -> capital engine damage. The correct values for the valve play are not correct during operation. l is to be requested from the dealer or taken from a repair manual. The play of the outlet valves is usually greater, since the outlet valves are exposed to greater thermal load and thus the valve shafts expand more. The valve play is measured when the respective valve is closed, so the cam is pointing away from the valve. To this end, the crankshaft is rotated so that the piston of the first cylinder in the upper dead point of the combustion phase (all valves of the Zyli The sensor gauge now measures the play of the inlet and outlet valves of the cylinder and records the values. Then the same for the remaining cylinders. If all values lie within the specified tolerance (usually 0.05 mm) lid again on it (control before seals) and continue. If somewhere the valve play is not correct, the corresponding adjustment shim must be replaced. The easiest thing would be if you already knew how thick d Then you could get suitable new ones. So when replacing Shims you should write down the built-in values somewhere, then it is easier the next time. To exchange the Shims there is no general instructions, because this runs from motor to motor a little different. But the principle is always the same: the valve has to be pressed down a little bit so that the disc is relieved and you can take them out. But of course, sic leaves it. h do not push the valve down by hand. The adjusting disc is located on the valve plunger, centered on the raised edge of the plunger. At one point the edge has a recess. The valve plunger must first be rotated in such a way that this recess points to the center of the cylinder. Then you turn the crankshaft so far that the pusher is pressed down. Then you attach the special tool on the cylinder head. If you turn the crankshaft carefully further or back (each one after, whether inlet or outlet valve), the valve rises again. The tongue of the special tool presses on the edge of the pusher so that the valve remains a little open. The valve is closed so far that it does not collide with the piston at OT, but is opened so far that there is enough room to take out the disc. A small screwdriver is put under the disc (at the place where the recess is in the edge of the pusher) and lifts it up a little. On the bottom of the disc there is a name for the thickness (e.g. in one hundredth of a millimetre, the discs are usually available in steps of 0.05 mm). Thus you can calculate how thick the new disc must be in order to achieve the target game (you can of course also consult appropriate tables in repair instructions). Exchange discs can be obtained from your dealer. Most dealers also take removed discs such as the back. Finally, you use the new disc (label down!), remove the tool, rotate the crankshaft at least two times and measure the game reached for control. If it is still not true: Start again from the front. If everything is right: control seals, attach valve lids (screws crosswise, tighten from the inside to the outside, preferably with torque wrench).
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Oldtimer “do”???? Tüv and H-marks?????
Hello, I think about the following things for my Fiat 124 Spidereuropa from 84 and would like to know which of them I will get H-marks?: -rebuilt sports seats of the then rally model -sport carburetor of the stronger volumex version (same car, more PS) -abarth rims of the then rally model -rebuilt sports exhaust (at that time also as accessories) -outside mirror of an older model of the series (these would then not be adjustable from the inside, allowed?) -new wooden steering rad, not original I would also like to participate in rallies (e.g.Saxony Classics), are there more or less original modifications a problem? Thanks for every answer!!!
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Difference between Punto and Grande Punto
Good morning, I am about to buy a Fiat for a longer period of time – transitionally. Now I have two offers:Fiat Punto built in 2004. and aFiat Grande Punto built in 2006. The equipment is only minimal. Is the Grande Punto simply the successor model / Face-Lift or are there any fundamental differences? Many greetings Florian